zmk1962
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Posts posted by zmk1962
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Wow... Thanks Ducky! I've been looking for something with which to possibly replace my vinyl covered gunwalls as the backing ply is starting to let go.... this may be the go !
Cheers
Zoran
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Is there a trend to underpower ? ....hmmm have a look at the attached photo taken at the recent Sydney Boat show. The craft was around 8m with a 3m beam...and on the back a single 150HP 4st. When I asked the rep there if he thought it was maybe a tad underpowered he went into a lengthy dialog about infusion resin manufacturing process ensuring just the right amount of resin resulting in minimal weight hulls .....( yerrr right - me thinks - having faced many a green wave offshore and been very glad that I had 200hp on my 6.35m with 2.4m beam hull and that Haines had overspec'd and laid that 1in think fibreglass at the bow and stern)....
Fact is... if the vendors can cut costs they will... beware the boat show / boat yard specials.
Cheers
Zoran
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43 minutes ago, mrsswordfisherman said:
Sure we did that because we had a lot of complaints from members because when they went to buy or enquire on here they were told "oh I sold that ages ago on blah blah"
We also had some pretty shifty stuff happening many years ago and I almost closed it down.
Unlike some of the other sites we do not charge for ads and sorry you find it restrictive but mods that watch that section are volunteers.
If you are not getting any luck on these other sites then try on here Zoran by all means. Make sure that you message the mod if it is sold or you want the ad removed.
@jeffb5.8 too true that point - make sure you follow the template for placing the ad!!
mrswordie
Sure... I've posted on swap and sell previously and had a successful sale (also made a fishraider friend as a bonus) and then promptly deleted the ad. I really didn't want to start a debate as I appreciate there are different approaches and reasons behind them. The point I made was that the implementation Fishraider has chosen restricts the genuine guys that want to sell their stuff because of a few lazy people that can't be bothered to manage their affairs - these people will behave in their poor way on whichever site they go. Another approach could have been to allow folks to advertise here and restrict the offenders that don't manage their ads from further posting on Fishraider swap and sell. Encourage the good - smack the bad. Personally I like and respect fishraider so I won't break the rules. I have several items for sale on other sites and recently sold 130m of rope, a 30cm buoy and ezy-lift device etc on Gumtree. I didn't advertise here as I hit a bigger population on Gumtree but these items could have easily been of interest and use to raiders as well. So as Fab said - as a seller I just needed to get rid of them as quickly as possible.
Anyway I'll leave it to @sydney south to respond.
Cheers
Zoran
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17 minutes ago, mrsswordfisherman said:
@sydney south Any reason why it isn't listed in fishraider Swap and Sell?
Hi Donna, Maybe its because one of the Swap and Sell site rules is that you cannot have your ad listed on Fishraider and another site - like Gumtree. I found it restrictive.
Cheers
Zoran
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4 hours ago, sydney south said:
Just selling a tinny now and are having the same issues with Gumtree.
Have listed the min offer that I will accept for offers, but they then text me when the offer can not be sent to me.
I am having offers of half the value being sent by txt.
I thank them for their offer, but are getting somewhat annoyed.....
I have taken my mobile off most of my gumtree ads to force the communication through the Gumtree site...any stupid offers get a reply of "hahaha". ... or "please be serious".
Cheers
Zoran
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Great stuff ! I'm just installing a winch in my boat...so looking closely at your "spring-load" idea. Do you have a view of the breaking strain of that set up?
Cheers
Zoran
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I'd say its the best outcome you could have hoped for under the circumstances...nothing extra to do except get the wiring correct and monitoring set up !
Cheers
Zoran
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Great job and great report - persistence pays ! Enjoy the kingy cutlets !
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I'll leave that to other raiders whom may have a more modern tow vehicle - but I have read in another forum (caravan related) that some folks have installed DC DC chargers to ensure additional batteries are getting adequate charge ...whilst others have had the vehicle manufacturer disable the smart alternator for a minimal service cost to get full charge out of alternator at all times. This option may be vehicle manufacturer dependent ...and it will cost a bit more fuel per week. Best of luck.
Zoran
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Took a while to find it... but here it is:
This is the extract from the RMS spec sheet.... note the underlined section - in Sydney the HVIS stations are clamping down on ensuring that the breakaway battery is on a charging circuit and that you can ascertain from the normal driving position that battery's condition.
"The Road Transport (Vehicle Registration) Regulation 2007 requires that all trailers with a Gross Trailer Mass (GTM)
exceeding 2 tonnes be provided with a braking system which will operate automatically and promptly upon breakaway
of the trailer from its towing vehicle, and that such application should be maintained for at least fifteen minutes.
Such trailers, if fitted with electrically actuated braking systems, must be equipped with a device which applies the
brakes in the event of a breakaway from the towing vehicle and maintains application for at least fifteen minutes. It is
essential therefore, that an energy source, such as a battery, be carried on the trailer and that means be provided to
ensure that the battery is maintained in a fully energised condition...."Here's the original post...way back in 2014...
Also I have attached a wiring diagram if you need it....
Cheers
Zoran
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You probably don't want to hear this but - No. Unfortunately not. Based on your location I presume you are towing in NSW - so you are under NSW regulations. I also presume your rig exceeds 2T as you have gone to the trouble of installing a break-away / hydraulic set up. From memory the rules in NSW require that:
i) the trailer breakaway battery is constantly being charged....and
ii) that from your normal driving position you are able to ascertain the breakaway battery charge (ie you need a warning or visible signal if the breakaway battery loses charge).
This has been discussed previously on the forums ... I'll try and dig up the post reference.
Cheers
Zoran
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Thanks Fab ! .... means a lot coming from someone with your experience. It's all about taking the hard work out and making boating easy, safe and fun.
Cheers Zoran
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PM sent as I am not sure if we are supposed to post suppliers and brand names. Cheers Zoran
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I'm a little late to this post as have been quite busy last few weeks but here's my anchor set up that has worked on my 6+m boat since 1996. Like others I have not coughed up the expense for an all powerful Sarca and hence rely on two anchors in my rig.
I carry a reef pick (for broken ground reefs), and a danforth (for sand and mud) anchor. Both are rigged up with break away set up much like Back_Cruncher and Rick have discussed above, except I don't run the chain to the front of the anchor as it would snag inside my bow roller - I have a short length of 5mm s/s cable (1500kg BS) swaged to the anchors.
Since I rely on two anchors I had to find a way to easily swap between the anchors without having to use any tools.
The solution I came up with was to mount two s/s 8mm snap hooks (600kg BS each) onto an 8mm S/S quick link (5000kg BS) with the snaps facing each other (they effectively lock in the anchor and I have not lost one yet). Then the quick link is attached to an anchor swivel and then to the chain/rope. Swapping between anchors takes seconds and requires no wet cold fingers fumbling with pliers, shackle keys, spanners trying to undo corroded D-shackles.
I guess because I have found it so easy to swap between the anchors I have never felt the need to go to a single all purpose anchor like a Sarca. Also the whole set up and the anchors are so cheap to replace compared to a Sarca.
Anyway its worked for me. Hope the pictures help explain my set up.
Cheers
Zoran
PS - to Fabs comment regarding a spare. By carrying a pick and danforth I guess each doubles up as a spare for the other. I do carry a third collapsible reefpick, 5m chain and 50m of 10mm rope. It lives folded up in the gunwall near the stern. I sometimes deploy this anchor from the stern if I want to anchor side on to current or if I am overnighting in a bay and do not want to swing on the main anchor. Guess this anchor is also an emergency spare but I never thought of it that way.
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21 hours ago, PaddyT said:
Putting on my very old hat as an adhesives Chemist- as far as I can remember there is no quick and dirty test to tell the difference, Once the resin is bound into matting and pigments etc are added this would only make the test more difficult without using a FTIR or the like . I would observe that you shouldnt have too many problems using epoxy to bind to cured polyester but not the other way around. Check with the resin manufacturer before proceeding- i havent worked in adhesives in over 15 years so am a bit rusty
Thanks Paddyt - if I do end up glassing it will be epoxy !!
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I was heading down the G3 path but LSM didnt have a stand at the Boat Show ... so I ended up at the Stress Free booth and they gave me a deal on the NG Midi 50 Free Fall. Should arrive this week.
Cheers
Zoran
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Thanks Guys .... helpful as always. I love that I can count on this site for practical experience.
Marty I'll call that crowd on Monday - always keen to learn something new - even if I don't end up reinforcing the well I still have to do some glassing to seal the core where I cut through the bulkhead.
Spotterone, as part of my research on winches I was very fortunate to find photos of an identical hull to mine with the same size winch fitted. I have attached some of those photos here and it looks like as in your case they have not reinforced the anchor well and are just relying on the backing plate. My winch should arrive this week and I'll then be able to see what type of backing plate comes with it. I have a 1/4 sheet of 4mm marine ally left over from another project which I could cut to any shape and add to the solution if I go down that path.
I have a few chores for the missus today then I can get stuck into cleaning out the anchor well to have a real good look.
Cheers
Zoran
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Hey Raiders,
I have not worked with fiberglass previously apart from fixing little gelcoat chips and drill holes - so I have experience with small stuff but nothing structural but would appreciate some advice.
I am about to install a drum winch and want to strengthen the anchor well floor (especially where its glassed to the hull). I'm ok with the basic principles of glassing: clean off all grease and grime, grind, more cleaning, accurate measurement of resin components, brush smooth layer of resin, lay fiberglass cloth, smooth out bubbles more resin more cloth etc. But my first question is, how do I tell if my fiberglass hull is made from epoxy or polyester resin?
I've heard that the two systems are somewhat incompatible and if you don't use the same system then delamination of the new layers will occur.
PS: hull is a 1996 Haines Hunter 635L.
Cheers
Zoran
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2 hours ago, PaddyT said:
Its all good until a mako turns up
THEN YOU CATCH IT !!!
+1 for burley...we had a skipjack frame in the burley pot when the mako showed up ...
cheers Zoran
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+one for pike as bait.... and looks like it was a great day on water... thanks for the report.
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From personal experience being of European descent - a culture where you do not waste anything!... once you start brewing you also tend to get into distilling - grappa, brandy, rakija, vodka, whiskey, bourbon, moonshine...they're all spirits that have been distilled from some brew. Essentially the distillation process extracts the alcohol from the brew. So whether you have a suspect batch of beer or wine - as long as the fermentation has converted some of the sugars into alcohol - you have he opportunity to extract out some good alcohol as a spirit and leave behind the "crap".
Suggest you Google distillation equipment...distillation processes... you want the ethanol (consumable alcohol) that is extracted at around 87degC... never drink any alcohols that come from the distillation before 87degC (that's essentially methylated spirits)...
If your beer usually has a 5% Alc content - then from your 20L of brew theoretically 1/20th is alcohol - so you may get 0.8-1L of alcohol finished product...
Cheers
Zoran
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On 18/06/2017 at 9:30 PM, JohnDory said:
..........
Dave
Don't give that bad beer a 2nd chance....... Down the drain.
Or if you have the gear and time...and the alcohol content is there... distill it !
Cheers
Zoran
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Agree with Trailcraft45 use the primer bulb method if you decide to drain the fuel.
There was a lot of discussion on the stale fuel topic previously - www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/topic/74376-removing-old-fuel/
Cheers
Zoran
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Cheers Marty - it sort of linked to other uses of fake grass and humour is always welcome... also great to catch up...hope to see you on the water.
BTW the car looks like a 2004 Nissan Pulsar Q - it was the same shape as my daughters old car - and I used to tell her if she doesn't wash it for another week I'm sure it will start to sprout and end up just like this car.
Cheers Zoran
Is there a trend to "under power" boats these days?
in Boating
Posted
Ha ha ha. Awesome !!!
What top speed do you get out of the tinny on the 9in training wheels?
Cheers
Zoran