a boat

The Yamaha F150 is a fine engine, I disagree with the strongest in it's class, but everyone has an opinion. As mentioned the Yamaha have good performance reports but if you are wanting to buy this boat and you are worried about how it performs, the simple answer is take a few friends and go water test it. if you do not like it then do not buy it or offer less and repower. I have been in plenty of Seaswirls and they are Hp hungry hulls and I too believe it is underpowered and that engine would need to be doing around 5000RPM to do a steady cruise speed they like to drink and make noise working that hard. Cheers, Huey.

Hi dnmn8r , considering Johnson as a brand is far older than both M or Y, any BRP dealer worth his salt can easily service those engines and what do you think the Y 70HP is a copy of? That 70HP Johno is one of the best engine ever made and they were made for many years and sold thousands. We still have 1970's versions still running fine. It would be a great mtach to a 475 Alloy boat and the only thing better would be clean tech 75HP-it will blow any 60HP you buy today out of the water. Cheers, Huey.

If it floats and does not leak then I would offer a couple of hundred, but I have seen this all the time, some people's ideas of near new are widely different to mine and as I said in life things are never as they seem. We have a good little Quintrex 3.55M Dart with 15HP Yammy for $2,500 so if in budget a much better boat than that one.

If you can buy a new 3.5M (about the size of a car) for $350 and it floats and does not crack the first time you use it, then yes a great buy, but as the saying goes if it sounds too good to be true it usually is. A trailer is around $1,000 and a new outboard starts at about $750 depending on HP.

We have no problem selling second hand boats with clean tech 2-Strokes-even carby 2-Strokes are not hard-just will not be worth as much as any clean tech engine. That is typical of what I hear some people in this industry claim and in fact the last second hand 150HP E-TEC we had, done over 600 hours in less than 5 years, sold before it was even removed from the old boat this week. Considering an E-TEC idles on 0.7L/hr (half the amount of any other clean tech engine) the fuel:oil ratio is pointess at that RPM. The engine could idle for a whole year on what the average boater does in hours and use less than a litre of oil. I disagree and the more hours you do, some brands of 4-stroke require 50 hour servicing to keep the warranty, then the 'service costs" INCLUDING oil swings in Evinrude's favour . All I say to people is if you choose to buy what ever brand you like make sure you have in writing what the service costs will be over the warranty period and make sure you get 5 years non declining warranty from the manufacturer (not the importer) in writing too. I have heard some huge amounts paid for even the 3 month service and some dealers really rip people off. Cheers, Huey.

Just because the rego papers say one brand does not mean it is right. Pride and Caribbean were from the same company back in the day. You can change the contrast on the I-Command and I hope the battery does not have wing nuts, if it does get rid of them and make sure everything is upto scratch. Just like sounders etc, there are software upgrade that can be applied to I-Command too to improve them. You could see what the latest version is. If propped and set-up right that V6 will push that old girl nicely-best to see around 5600-5800 at WOT. Cheers, Huey.

Hi wen, that engine has warranty till January 2016. I hope someone has done a 3 year service on an engine with so little use in over 3 years. Impellers do not like sitting for so long without use and the fuel systems do not like only doing 35 hours in that time too-the fuel can go off and gum things up. Are you sure it has only done 35 hours because that is very very low. What is the WOT RPM on the old girl and it looks like a Caribbean Belmont to me-I am guessing it does not have it's compliance plate anymore? Cheers, Huey.

Hi Kevin, no problem and the offer is open. Make sure you can clearly see the AV plate when trimmed correctly too. See what the fuel burn nubers are at idle / at 4K and at WOT. Cheers, Huey.

Pride made some of the best boats back in the day but there were some models that were not so great so hard to answer a question without knowing what Pride model you are asking about.

beno41079 you can buy anything you want and comparing a 90HP to a 90HP the fuel usage is the same-done it here many of times. Yes the V6 135HP E-TEC will use less fuel at the same RPM as the 4 cylinder 4-Stroke and at cruise speed it will be quieter too because it does not have to rev as hard. At idle the noise is probably the other way around but both technologies are quiet-SIMPLE as that. All cab are Fords or Toyotas, does that make them better than say a Mercedes and yes alot of commercial guys use 4-Strokes and good luck to them but there are plenty that drive E-TEC too with good success-it what makes the world go around -everyone likes different things but lets compare apple to apples or HP to HP. Have you even driven a V6 E-TEC, if not I am not sure how you can have a experienced view. Best of luck with your current engine and I hope it does not cost alot to service and I do not need to have a discussion with you because you like what you have now and that is great and I like what I choose to stock but I think I would have used and seen inside many more outboards of all brands then yourself. Sorro, THERE IS NO way an E-TEC will use the same fuel and oil as a Force and yes we used to sell those back in the day too so again have experience. Why not bring it in here and I am sure I will sort it out for you. What are your WOT RPM because my money would be on low 5K's and if so you are lugging the engine and therefore builds up heat and everything else. Your call but if someone overprops any brand of clean tech outboard the experience they have is not good but again I do not believe you would use the same fuel as the Force. For a start the V4 idles on 0.4L/hr -you can see that on the I-Command and the old Force would of been about 10 times that at low speed-this does not relate to propping or boat either. The offer is open if you want to make that engine run as it should and if the dealer that you bought it from is out in western Sydney and who you took it too then it would not surprise me the engine will not be set-up right.

Comparing a 90HP and a 140HP is a waste of time, the 130HP E-TEC is quieter than the 90HP E and on par with any 4-Stroke plus goes better, lower emissions, better fuel economy especially at low speed, less moving parts, no internal anodes, lower ownership costs and make sure if you get a Suzuki you get 5 years NON DECLINING factory backed warranty-which you will not. All this plus SST prop and make sure you get in writing what 5 years worth of servicing on thoses engines will be- you will be spending around $2K every year to service them if the dealer goes "by the book". As for long term better I sure hope your engine does not become one of the MANY less than 10 year old Suzuki's/ Johnson 4-Stroke we have seen that have corroded from inside out-have one here at present. Everyone has their opinion but some are more educated and experienced than others and topics like this come up all the time with everyone throwing their 2 cents in. don.a why not go for a run in either and make up your own mind and buy from a place that has experience because I do not care what brand of clean tech engine you are talking about they need proper set-up and diagnostic equipment. Gone are the days of backyarders working on these new engines. Also I can guarentee you one 140HP 4-Stroke will not even come close to planing that hull and that is important on twin rigs and if I was doing it myself I would get the V6 135HP E-TEC's without even thinking twice because they will blow the 4-Strokes out of the water in torque and being V6 are even quieter than any 4 cylinder 4-Stroke working hard. They are basically de-tuned 200HP's and come in counter rotating engines to running the M2 gearbox that the 300HP uses so a heap more durable than the 140HP Suzuki gearcases.

It is a hoax-the marine industry website had a story on it yesterday.

Hi, Bakers transport on 1800 803 161 is who we have used for years on all our boats coming from up north. Give Vicky or Paul a call and see if they can bring your new boat down. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, I prefer M/K and you can get the Powerdrive I-Pilot or Terrova I-Pilot-which is the better of the two. The boat will need a bracket welded on if not there already from the factory and yes the electric needs it's own deep cycle battery and as pointed out they are not light. The 55lb will be fine for your boat and they are 12V so only need 1 battery for this unit. The I-Pilot with all it's features are a big improvement over the older non GPS auto-pilot units and are very popular. I see MG has finally caught up but I have not used or fitted one of these so can not comment-I doubt many of these have been retailed yet. Cheers, Huey..

Hi Steve, yes cool feature for all the Navico products. it is a mirror image so what is showing on the MFD is what the table will show. The resolution of the tablet will be the determining factor or what you see repeated there. Great value too at present with the HDS range getting added bonuses like free transducer and the bigger ones even get the structure scan thrown in at present. I am also doing my own combo packs with the Go- Free module featuring at heavily reduced pricing too while stocks last. Cheers, Huey.

Hi Juggs, what you see is the "split line" gearcase and that is not so much unburnt oil but soot due to the rich oil mixture. The tell tale is just that and you want to make sure that both cylinder heads are coming upto temp-especially at idle-that is critical for all outboards and it is a must to run QL78YC plugs in that OIS ignition system. Cheers, Huey.

They only over oil due to air on the fuel side making the fuel mixture aerated on the fuel side of the OMS and as a result the oil/fuel ratio is greater. Make sure all the fuel lines, connectors and fittings are tight and also an engine running cold will exhibit this sort of thing, so check the thermos too.

Getting the paint from Telwater is very simple and comes in handy spray cans-you can even buy the primer from them. We do an order and have the paint here in a few days-can not simpler than that.. The way to fix it is elbow grease and time to rub back, clean and re-paint. Refit with alloy rivets too.

Hi, I have driven many Polycraft's, we were the first dealer in NSW years ago and if propped and set-up right the 455 performs well with an I-2 E-TEC-we have them running around here as commuter boats and they have alot of growth on the bottom and still plane fine-trust me the friction marine growth has is ALOT worse than say a third adult. Going from the 40HP to 50HP is not much difference, but the 60HP runs the water valve and it is noticeably better than a 50HP but if the boat is only rated to a 50HP than you would have a problem there. Not sure how adding hydraulic steering is going to make the boat plane bettr, but yes tabs and a sharper chine help any hull get on top of the water. You need to make sure the engine is propped to see close to 6K with normal load and the best prop for the Polycraft is the Rogue 4 blade prop. If some fitted a Viper than that is not at all suitable to such a boat and props make a huge difference and would be the NO.1 mod if soemone is looking to get better performance. Cheers, Huey.

No, and as stated if the BMT weight is over 2T you need electric break-away brakes that use hydraulic lines to the calipers.

Manufacturers and those who sell their products state yearly water pump changes because they make alot of money in spare parts. As you have discovered impeller can last a long time, we have had impellers that have never been serviced for over 10 years and they still pump water. That said I agree with what Fab1 said and if you go to the trouble to remove gearbox and water pump, it is wise to replace the impeller and not re-use the old one.

Hi, the battery switch is on a bracket-it is not screwed to the hull and the screws have duralac on them. Are you sure these extras were factory fitted, not dealer fitted because as i said they have used alloy rivets for a long time in fitting rod holders. I wonder if the drill shavings were from the holes drilled after the factory for the outboard. Do not get me wrong (and I think i will bow out of this now because you guys obviously see more boats than I do),Telwater boats, as with anything made by human hands can always be improved and they will have problems from time to time. Everyone will have an opinion from their own experiences-some people just have more experience then others. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, the only way you are going to get better out of the hole performance is to go down in pitch, so if you have a 13 inch alloy prop, you will want to get an 11 inch prop of any material-going up in pitch will make your problem worse. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, as I said, the only reason I posted is because you said they do not prime, which they do. ALL alloy brands have paint problems and Telwater produce the most boats by a fair margin so one would expect they would have the most problems-simple numbers game. Now for this other assumption, the electronics are not earthed to the boat-they have a dedicated return to the battery and again what you posted is wrong. If you are willing to learn I will post what they do. Not sure why you made a face but you think one way I think and see daily the other way. Cheers, Huey. SERVICE BULLETIN 2014.04.10 Wiring and grounding 2.pdf This is how we do it and have the engines +ve and -ve going to the battery with the wiring as shown- wonder if the OP has his boat wired this way?

Blistering paint happens when a hole is drilled and raw alloy is then uncovered. Duralac and alloy rivets will be the best way to help prevent it but any alloy boat used in salt water is subject to this.