a boat

Yes I would. I pay a little extra for the Stacer's to have this process when I am ordering a new boat. Marine ply being a natural product can varying in quality.

Do not try on any outboard to engage the gears without the engine running or at least spinning the propshaft. The clutch dog and gears will not be aligned and the clicking you are hearing is the clutch dog jumping over the ramps on the gears. Once you fully engage it that is why the noise goes away. Changing gearlube will not of affected anything, but if the control cables are not adjusted correctly once the control box is in full forward or reverse then the gearbox wants to be the same way, by changing gears slowly, and i do not care what engine a person has, the noise is not doing any good to your gearbox-there is no clutch in the gearcase and changing gears quickly and directly is a good practice, of course making sure the cables are adjusted first.

Hi Steve, if someone has disconnected the oil injection, mix it at 50:1 and best to use XD-50 in that girl. This will be caused by the engine running cold so service the thermos and make sure it is coming upto temp at low speed and then use something like XD-50. Also important to fit the correct plugs, that is QL78YC if the model number is what you gave. I have seen all sorts of plugs in these I-3 engine. If you want to learn about the VRO (or correctly termed OMS) an article from a friend of mine, Mr Bill Grannis, will point you in the right direction and trust me ALOT of people in this industry could do well to read his article and understand it. Easy to fix and reliable, but it is like someone going to the doctor with a sore arm and instead of fixing the arm, the doctor cuts it off saying you have another one so you do not need that one. Cheers, Huey.

ALL small carby engines can happily run on a 100:1 mix, the problem comes if the engine is let sat for a period of time, there can not be enough residue internally and things can get tight due to lack of use and oil layer. All brands have played with 100:1 over the years and some have been in business since 1909 making outboards, so have the most experience. Oil really does not make a carby engine dirty, it is the unburnt fuel that comes out the exhaust ports and if you are worried buy a semi synthetic oil that is very clean as oil's goes.

The broken blades will have gone the other way and will be somewhere in the water tube and/or powerhead. You need to find them otherwise they can block the water passages and the engine will get hot. Your engine has a notorious elbow under the powerhead and my money would be right there is where these blades will be stuck-painful job to get to this area too and will often get clogged with salt too.

93.8MPH on the race boat with 250HO E-TEC-that is the fastest I have been on the water in any boat.

Hi Anthony, good to hear and as we mentioned to you that engine is a power house so be careful on that hull. I hate to imagine what it would of been like with the steering the way it was when it cam e down. Mate you also want to spend an afternoon cleaning up that wiring-yes each time I ran it on the flusher the batteries were sluggish and with the wiring the way it is at the stern, a good tidy-up is in order and really not that hard to do yourself and save yourself some money, because we will not name where it went first to try and be fixed, but as I said to you when you were here, there were some serious dodgy things done on that old girl and sometimes i just scratch my head with what people do in this industry. Enjoy and use good fuel and oil and you have a strong outboard now running as best she can for a 30 year odd old girl. Cheers, Huey.

Savage Jabiru's are great little boats and sold heaps of those back in the day. If the boat and more importantly the engine checks out that is good buying at that price.

Hi, I agree with the people who made your sounder-if you are doing that work the 83/200 is better in those depths and also cheaper. If you really wanted the best added sonar hub and CHIRP with give even better details, but dearer than either the ones you mentioned. From that picture I would try to fix it-I have fixed worse (again from the picture) and as i said you really have nothing to lose to try and fix it, but if you want to buy a new one-+1 to what Navico said.

Hi, on the subject of engine hours the simple facts are, for any recreational users, they will not do enough hours in the life of owing the engine to wear any brand or technology out. Buying a high hour outboard can come with risks due to how it has been looked after and the price should reflect that. A better indication is years of surviving in salt water and just today a 1984 V4 Johno has come in for service and it looks great and over that 30 years of use who knows how many hours it has done but it is still running after all these years in salt water so some brands have that proven track history.

Your call then and as long as you are happy that is the main thing, but it takes 10 minutes to swap a switch box-pretty much plug and play. I still do not see how it only happened in forward, but can not comment anymore without seeing it muck up.

Been great deals on HDS since the beginning of October and at the prices they are I doubt Navico will have stock of the current HDS range for long. Stewy's unit is the best and we can get those from Navico no problem. Cheers, Huey.

Why is it only doing it in forward then, if it is in fact a faulty switch box, I guess the trigger was OK then, it would stop in either gear or in neutral-which you said in the first post it was not. Something does not add up and that is expensive for a switch box.

Hi, it is "impeller" and if you do not understand the difference between an impeller and a prop bush I think you will be in over your head and I would be surprised if, from what you are describing, it has anything to do with a prop bush, because a slipping bush happens in both gears and allows the engine to rev, just like a slipping clutch in a car. What does the person who you say serviced this engine including the carby say because he most likely did something wrong. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, without paying the extra for the Sonar hub and TM150 transducer you will not get CHIRP on the NSS-8. They are great value at the moment, but last time I checked with Navico the supply was very limited and they are not making any more NSS-8. If you really want CHIRP then by the time you add the Sonar hub to the NSS-8 it is not that much more the Evo2 which has in built sonar hub and alot more features than the NSS-8. The speed alone on the processor in the Evo2 is worth the extra and makes the NSS-9 Evo2 the best unit going at present in its price range. There are alot of differences between these two units and if not wanting chirp get (if you still can) the NSS-8 at present for under $1,800 with Oz wide chart, go free and transducer-so hard to beat. Cheers, Huey.

Sounds like a solid plan.

That's normal and I mean when you have asked the engine to do some work, either gear with throttle open. If is it starving for fuel by pulling the choke plunger out it injects more fuel and if it picks up slightly then it will be fuel related-I hope they set the float height correctly if they did remove the clean the carby. Also the ball in the choke plunger-under the spring can cause problems on there 9.9/15HP US Merc's.

That engine will have nothing to protect from overheating so it will not be that. It sounds like ignition but if the engine revs in reverse I can not see how going into forward will cause it not to. Make sure the linkages are correctly set-up and you will need to check for two strong spark when it starts to die and also choke it with the plunger to see if it picks up and if so then it will be fuel related.

Hi, Allycraft have not been in business for a fair few years now and the range of Ally Plate was not a huge success for them and they only made them for a few years. They contacted us back in the day about stocking them and they were priced well and not that bad-not the best by a long stretch but not the worst either. We service a few and I have been for a ride in them and the ride is on par with mid tier plate boats. Buying second hand you will want to be warying and work out what you are prepared to pay for it and then go for a water test and if YOU like it that is the main thing. Cheers, Huey.

Yes, nothing to loose in trying to fix the broken one first. We have had some good success in repairing broken ones. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, I agree, it was an informative night and I learned a couple of new things too. Thanks to the Raider team, Donna and Stewy, for organizing it and thanks to Ian too for providing the venue. It was good to put faces to some names too. Cheers, Huey.

Yes sounds like you are-best of luck with it.

The brand, as such, are OK nothing really wrong with them and there are worse brands out there. That said, even buying what someone may consider the best brand, buying anything second hand is a gamble. If you do not know what to look out for in either the boat or the outboard then price it accordingly and on the subject of price that can make or break a deal-it would want to be on the lower end of the scale due to buying them new is cheaper than the larger brands. Impossible to answer if this particular boat you are interested is good without seeing it or better yet going for a water test to make sure it does not have a hook or the like-even the so called best brands can make a dud boat.

There is no way you would catch me out that far in any 4.5M boat, with any HP on the back. Those guys are the ones that put the lives of the rescue people at risk.

That transducer looks too low in the photos-at least from the angle they are taken and that pick-up will be disturbing the water flow badly being so close. Raise it up a bit and swap the pick-up to the port side and see if the sounder returns are better. Cheers, Huey.