a boat

Carby 4-Strokes are the worst outboard to start cold-alot more so than basic carby 2-Stroke and all modern clean tech injected engines start with the turn of a key-hot or cold. If you push the key in you flooded the engine and again any carby engine will suffer from this no matter how many cycles the combustion process takes.

Do not worry G2 will filter its way down in HP over the coming years and then the bar will be raised in those HP classes too. Comparing an old fashion carby 2-Stroke to a modern 4-Stroke is a waste of time, but alot of people do including the people who make and market them. Just this week we serviced a 1979 V4 which still had the original head gaskets on them. Fitted new head gaskets ($50 each so not as expensive as a head service on some clean tech engines) and with the heads off the bores still had cross hatching in them and the water passages shown no signs of corrosion after over 35 years in salt water and anyone guess as to the hours. This is, to me at least, a good indication that some technologies have proven to last years in salt water. The best advice is as Anthony said and if YOU like and trust a dealer and he chooses to sell a certain brand, for what ever reason, then price up one of that brand and if within budget, fit that. They are all good nowdays and I prefer what we choose to stock and sell and have done so since 1961.

It would help knowing what fishfinder you are fitting and thru hull transducer are ones where you drill a large hole in the bottom of the boat and a 3.6M tinny is not a boat that you would want to fit a thru hull transducer too. In hull transducers, like a P79 transducer, would work but a big overkill for such a small boat and the depth of water a 3.6M should go in.

My statements are factual too and proven by EPA awards. Yes I choose to stock and sell what I like, but have all brands talking to us and they are all good but with over 50 years of experience under our belt dealing with ALL brands I think I can talk from experience more than economic advantage-if that was the case I would make a heap more money selling another brand with service costs-again simple facts.

And I am just going from what I see and work on daily. Sumps and heads corrode and why there is anodes internally that need to be replaced. At WOT fuel burn would be similar but I bet the E would be going faster. At the end of the day if you like what you like that is great and I prefer what I prefer as does the biggest boat builder in Oz and dealers that have been doing this for over 50 years, so have some experience in their opinion.

Depending on the hubs, just fit two new complete hubs and bearings and as mentioned around $100 would be those. Bearing buddies are around $20.

The spring is from the bearing buddy, so knock that off first (and fit new ones). Then you will see the nut and split pin. Remove those and then you will be able to get the hub off-might need some "persuasion" . I have seen alot worse trailer running gear than that. Cheers, Huey.

That is strange becuase according to the EPA, the E-TEC is cleaner to us and the environment than any other brand and if it fouled plugs it would of being running cold due to clogged thermo, just like any 4-Stroke will and also make oil if it runs cold. Best of luck with what you have and this is feedback from someone who has not only used all brands but works on them 6 days a week. To the OP, enjoy your new engine and make sure she is propped to see around 5200RPM at WOT-alot of places will overprop outboards of any technology.

E-TEC is the cleanest engine made-fact and no lake regulate engine technology, just emissions and the Evinrude is cleaner than any 4-Stroke. You are living in the past comparing an old tech carby engine to a modern 4-Stroke. A modern DI 2-Stroke does everything any brand of 4-Stroke does but goes better, has less moving parts and has proven to last a long time in salt water. As for oil, again you are not talking from fact, a DI will use about $60 worth of oil over a year so it will cost more to change the sump oil. yes at idle some 4-Stroke are quieter than other engines, but up on the plane at cruising speed it is a different story and some 4-Stroke are noiser. Fuel burn rates are better too on a DI, especially at idle-a I-2 E-TEC uses 0.4L/hr-no 4-Stroke will come cloae to that-again facts. You are entitled to an opinion but please stick to facts and compare modern to modern and if you prefer 4-Stroke that is fine with me, just i hope you are not one of the people with sump and heads issues down the track..

I am in Sydney and you should get it from Ken at Ken's Marine if you are in Canberra.

Ken will look after you with that new power and a big step up in performance and fuel economy over the old girl. Enjoy it.

The Telwater factory fit Evinrude for a reason and that is why any Stacer / Quntrex or Savage will be better priced with the Evinrude. Plus best warranty, lowest service costs and SST prop so add that to any other brand especially the service cost and the initial buy price will be even more. p-refer the Stacer range due to a deeper vee at the transom resulting in a better ride and considering a 429 Outlaw, console version with 50HP Evinrude, all factory professionally rigged-not done by some cheap labour at a dealers is under $18K it is very hard to beat both for performance or value. If you have not priced up the Stacer it is worth looking at and we keep 429 Outlaw in stock if you would like to view one.

On an engine brand without an solid inbuilt trailer bracket then a transom save back to the trailer is a good idea.

Hi, you may have solved your problem, but if it is an alloy prop and it is that stuck, a prop puller will destroy the prop by breaking the blades. We have had many props seize on over the years and only SST survive the punishment a puller can put on them-some cases we have had to cut the prop away and that can be time consuming and therefore expensive. Good advise to remove the prop regularly to stop this and catch any fishing line, only this week two jobs have had straight water in the gearcase due to clumps of line behind the prop. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, not much point comapring the 900 series because that is superior to the Elite-7 or 8 series from HB because it is in another price point all together. So if you are wanting to spend that sort of money that is what I would fit, the 959DI and some good prices on these until the price rise hits due to the weak Oz dollar. Lowrance have the new Elite-9 too that is great value compared to the HB 959. If you wanted to spend less than a grand the Elite-7 CHIRP is better value than the 8 series HB even more so because when you add charts to both units. Again good prices on the Elite-7. You should also look at the Raymarine Dragonfly-7-due to both CHIRP DI and 2D and they too are well priced at the moment, but will also go up. As I say to anyone looking at electronics knowing the budget is very important and the new Elite-9 at around the $1,500 mark with CHIRP DI and chart is hard to beat. If interested in prices PM me, Cheers, Huey/

Without an LSS-2 transducer Structure Scan will not work.

If Telwater was worried about the extra weight of the HO they would not of rated that hull to take the weight and performance of the HO, they do speed tests and extensive testing with all their hull brands before rating a boat to a particular HP. that Hornet will fly with that HO just make sure it is set-up and propped right because all modern engines need more skill and training to fit them correctly-best to see close to 6K RPM at WOT with that V4. Saving a little money and getting a less than skilled place to fit any modern engine can ruin an experience pretty quickly. Cheers, Huey.

Sounds like it is jumping out of gear because the clutch dog is not fully engaging the gear. If it did not do it before you remove the gearbox then as the guys have said you need to adjust the relationship between the top and bottom shift shaft. Big damage to the gears and clutch dog can happen each time it jumps out of gear so it was to be fix ASAP.

It will be all trail and error-there is no way of knowing what it would achieve without trying it-could make it better could make it worse.

A glass boat like yours Dave will allow the transducer to mount higher, if the OP raises the transducer to be equal with the bottom of the boat it will lose reading due to the fact that alloy boats are not very "clean" thru the water. If he is getting good readings up on the plane then I would fit the spray deflector and it will stop the rooster tail.

Fit a spray deflector and you would of thought the place you purchased it from would of mentioned that.

His oil gearlube pump works fine if done correctly. You just screw in the clear hose that comes in the kit into the bottom drain screw and then pump away till oil comes out the top-the air will be purged along the way. Put in the top screw, remove the hose and put the bottom screw in-not much to muck up really.

To check and adjust control cables is not rocket science, if in fact it needs to be done, so I have already made you the offer to plan on using the boat up this way and I can have a quick look at it-I do not know how to be fairer than that. Anyone any good usually is busy this time of year and "mobile" guys can cause more problems then they are solve.

I have seen all brands have soft floors from time to time-as I said being a natural product builders can get a bad patch. I doubt many, if any dealers would pay the extra at the time of the boat being made to seal the floor-but I guess when you have being doing it as long as we have you learn a trick or two.

As I said changing gears slowly will cause this "clicking" and should not be done on any engine. Once fully engaged in forward or reverse gear there should be no "clicking" Pretty hard to determine a sound via a keyboard, but my money would be the fact that you are trying to look for this noise by changing gears too slowly-happens with all gearcases. If you are worried plan on using the boat up this way and swing by and it would be five minutes to start it up and see what it does.