a boat

Hi, yes if you fit the LSS-2 it will show DI and SI but you will need another transducer to show traditional sonar and then you will get interference with the existing transducer, not only probable not having the room to correctly mount three transducers. The Touch screen are very good units and very well priced at present with the free SS and 2D tranny's. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, not that hard really and we did many back in the day. I am surprised a Merc dealer can not do this because Smartcraft has been around for many years-if you had the newer Mercmonitor system then yes that could stump people. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, personal preference (but my experience is that I have used and seen all brands and technologies-unlike most on here) is the V6 E-TEC. If indeed you decide to upgrade you are going to go from a 4 cylinder 4-Stroke to a Direct Injected V6 so performance, fuel usage and all round torque will be a big improvement. Typical the whole service thing is totally misunderstood and the FACTS are if you buy an E-TEC you can get a dealer to service it every month if you want to, but the point is to get the best 5 year FACTORY non declining warranty you do not have to get a dealer to service until 3 years-of course non matter what brand they all required home care before any service at a dealer, whether it is yearly or every three years. Yes the cost of oil needs to be factored in but again the TRUE facts are what an Evinrude is going to cost you every three years to service and oil is a lot less than any other brand. If you have not run a V6 E-TEC you can not understand how they run and perform so you should get a run in one and they do everything any 4-Stroke does-clean, quiet and fuel efficient but they go a lot better and do not have all these extra moving components. You should price up the brands you prefer from a dealer you trust and then go for a run and make up your own mind. All brands are good today. Cheers, Huey.

+1 to what Gazza said, some brands use press crank shaft and they are a real PIA to replace and 9 times out of 10 they cost more to do than a second hand outboard is worth. As I said probably a blessing the engine is the wrong shaft length.

Hi, as the guys have said any X/L will not work on your hull and it could be a good thing because that Suzuki has a pressed one piece crankshaft and rods so as mentioned you just do not replace these for the fun of it-there would of been a reason. The V4 Johno too will have a heap more grunt then it being a 2L engine-they went hard for their HP these loopers. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, water pump, thermo, plugs, grease and gearlube change. Built proof engines that have seen many years of abuse and they still keep going in salt water. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, yes to answer your specific question about the same brand, but two different models, yes going from 1.6mm to 2.0mm does add a fair amount of structural strength-it is about 30% thicker. Of course going even thicker adds even more strength to structural integrity of a boat. Cheers, Huey.

Hi Jim, I responded because he was asking if the side thickness of the particular boat brand he was looking at would be good enough for what he intends to do-I see no where he mentioned anything about a wharf like you posted in your last sentence-no boat with this sort of thickness would be damaged by pulling up alongside a wharf -a little offshore work is what he asked about. I mentioned he could look at a brand with even thicker sides and pointed out the other features. He can take it for what it is and if you like your brand of boat then good luck to you too but trust me we have stocked and sold all brands over the years and could easily sell any brand tomorrow if I thought they were better but we all like what we like for a reason. If he has seen the new Baymasters (which I highly doubt because I only saw them for the first time about 3-4 weeks) ago and he still prefers a Lazeabout then as I said good luck to him and I hope he enjoys his new boat. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, if the OP wants a Q because he thinks it is a better boat then good luck to him but I think Stacer is a superior boat for many reasons, some I have listed and he would be making a mistake if he has not laid eyes or even priced up a Stacer Baymaster, in particular the new models that I was shown about a month ago-they will raise the bar again and trust me their will be some upset Q dealers due to being a better boat at a much better price. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, or you could buy a Stacer 509 Baymaster with even thicker material and the proven boat building design of the EVO hull that offers a better ride due to a deeper deadrise at the transom. Add rolled side, gunwhale rubber, 6 person rating and better pricing with bimini STD, it is a superior boat and why I chose to stock and sell them over their brother. Food for thought and nothing wrong with a Q but S is better boat at better value and the factory matched BMT packages are hard to beat. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, the 16R was never designed as a fishing boat and back in the day they were used mainly as social boats so the back to back seats worked well-our family has owned a few throughout the years and one of my favourite boats was a 17R with 175HP Johno on the back-that went very well. We had a 16R too at one stage with a V6 Merc on the back and that boat could move too. That said I have seen many a 16R being converted nicely to a fishing hull, with pedestal seats, opening screen and anchorwell fitted to the bow. The benefit of this hull is that is a great riding boat and would be worth doing these mods to if you can find a good one at the right price. Some other brand older boats would not justify spending the time and money to do these mods to but the V16R is not one of these. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, no adjustments are needed or can be done to your engine. You would let the oil tank get low and then top up with XD-100 if you wanted to see the difference in mainly smoke. Again nothing wrong with the Yamalube but it will be not be a full synthetic oil with additives to make it burn cleaner and better. Cheers, Huey.

Hi Juggs, I am no fan of the RMS either but they sort of have it right, although it would be easy to talk in HP, because no outboard is rated on the engine cowl sticker via its kw rating. 5HP equals 3.7Kw, so any engine over 4.0Kw-which is about 5.4HP, would need to be registered and I have yet to see a 5.4HP outboard in my time. Cheer, Huey.

Hi, yes it goes there with the cover and screw over it and it is the detent ball for the shift and throttle plate. I sure hope you paid attention before dismantling the c/box as far as you have because it can be above the skill level of most home handy men. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, I know but as I said a 5HP is 3.7Kw so anything 5HP and down does not need to be registered while a boat with 6Hp and up does-simple as that. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, nothing wrong with XD-30, it is a mineral based oil that meets the TC-W3 standard but it far from the best. In any carby oil injected engine the best is XD-100-simple as that. In a pre-mix engine or if someone wants to save $10 then XD-50 is a very good oil too. If you have an oil injected engine and you switched to XD-100 and did a few hours to get the old stuff out of the system and the engine gets used to running on XD-100 you will see improvements and some people have even claimed performance gains-one thing is for sure the Valvoline will be made to met the standards and that is it. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, sorry I would not have a clue because we do not stock or use Valvoline oils. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, that is incorrect, a 5HP or 3.7Kw engine on a boat means the boat does not have to be registered. Anything 6HP and up it does need to be registered. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, that gentleman would have to be one of the most knowledgeable people on outboards of all brands and no he does not work for OMC/BRP, just a freelance expert that has spun tools in his time too. I have known him for a few years now and he knows what he is talking about and he used to also write for Bass and Walleye Magazine in the States, which was one of, if not the best mag of its type I have come across-I used to look forward to my mag arriving monthly from them. This is an old post but still valid and if you get that V4 the min I would use is XD-50 with XD-100 being the best for lubricate and lack of smoke even in an old tech engine like you are looking at. Cheers, Huey.

Not sure if you are asking me again but as I mentioned in the PM, it looks most like a Safari from that photo. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, yes being E/J are the oldest outboard company they are all the like their bolt pattern now. Back in the 70's there was differences between the brands available then but has been the same for many years. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, yes just, if that is with your normal load. I prefer to see around 5200RPM otherwise you can be lugging the engine and no engine likes that. Make sure you can clearly see the AV plate when trimmed correctly because most of the time people rig them too low. Hole no.3 tends to work the best and on a Crestcutter you would want a 15 inch Viper. We have a handful of that exact same boat / engine combo running around and they are a sweet match together-good performance, good fuel economy and very quiet running all plus very low ownership costs. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, 5000-5200RPM at WOT with your normal load is what you want to see with the I-3 Evinrude's. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, post a picture will help. It cold be a Brooker-not many made and they were called V170. If is a runabout it could be a Safari but back in the day Glastron also made a model called V173. The most critical thing from all of this, from an insurance point of view is the max HP is 140HP. Cheers, Huey.

Hi, I would not want to tow such a boat with your car no matter what anyone says. The only way to know for sure what a particular BMT will weigh is to put the normal gear like fuel, safety equipment and the average boating equipment and put it over a weigh bridge. The only way such a rig would be close to 1200Kg's is if it has an alloy trailer but I doubt that is the case. Cheers, Huey.