MainframeJames

Sounds like the consensus is that it's a symptom of the motion which results in the braid contacting the leader. So there are a couple ways to approach a solution. 1. Reduce motion. Most people accomplish this by using a heavy sinker in surf that is designed to stay put. Flat disk style surf sinkers, star sinkers, and grip sinkers all do this to varying degrees based on weight and conditions. You can also reduce motion by fixing the sinker rather than using a running sinker. 2. Reduce braid on leader contact. If you want/need a light running sinker that rolls around a lot, then you can switch to mono instead of braid for surf fishing. This way you don't have a thin hard line biting into your softer leader. At those dimensions, the braid is essentially a saw blade running across the leader. Most fishos use mono for surf fishing no matter what because the stretch also deals with the water/tide/current pushing against the line. The line gives a little more so the business end moves less.

I make sure it's fully closed and I keep the packets in a Ziploc as well. Plus my tackle bag has a waterproof pouch in the lid and I keep the ziplocs in there. I've seen others keep them in an airtight snap-shut food container and that seems to work pretty well too.

Which lens(es) do you carry? quick search turned up a package Sony offers with a F2.4-4 large-aperture 24-600mm zoom lens. Sounds pretty unreal.

Beautiful shots as always. Thanks for sharing.

Very cool pic. I think cornets are actually related to seahorses, is that right? I've never heard of them outside of reefs. They do look the part with the little whips on their tails though.

Nice. That's exactly what I was talking about. Thanks mate.

Looking at both closely I'm not confident I can tell the difference. What makes you guys say Ridged Swimmer instead of Asian Paddle? Edit: never mind. I can see the ridge pattern on that one that doesn't appear on the Asian Paddle. Good spot guys!

This. I've been using Norman speed clips and while they're good, the double thick wire is too thick for some tow points and I'm forced to use a split ring. They can also be a pain to open for changing lures if you have wet or fishy fingers. Not ideal, but still beats re-tying. There's also a product made by Decoy called a Spiral Snap that's very similar to the Mustad Fastach. First time I see either one available I'm going to be trying them out.

Well done Wellzy. Sounds like you had a lot of fun and did well despite some pretty vicious RNG. I hope you guys continue to progress.

Elevator bombs - Dinga sells them. https://www.dinga.com.au/elevator-bomb-jigheads-1153.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwypjVBRANEiwAJAxlIh2O9bDMfJ99KTizWrTBoMzJAQErVYfsWYp1CNjBW9rnyUMLOlW1OBoCsZkQAvD_BwE

Do you guys ever use bite alarms at night so you can nap between fish? I've seen carp fisherman do it but haven't seen it on the beach before. It just dawned on me thinking about the dilemma of knowing the fish are there now and work is coming in the morning. Dilemma solved?

Nice. Still floats even with a hole in it.

Where I grew up 5-6 lbs was a bloody big largemouth. I can hardly imagine 20 lbs!!

Sorry about that. To clarify, 7g is about 1/4 oz, that's part of what I was getting at. Bigger jig heads from the beach than you would normally use because you have to be able to cast them farther. I've had good luck with 7/16 oz pre-rigged Berkeley swim shad. Good action and heavy enough to properly launch them. I've also used Gulp sand worms.

I have a Berkeley Prawn Dog that is very similar to that as well. Tends to slide just under he surface and "walks" more gently than say, a Sugapen.

Pics?

I would say depends on water depth of you're talking from the rocks. Although Tailor tend to be surface feeders as far as I've seen. If the wind is working with you, metal slices all the way down to 10g or even 7g. If the wind is really pushing hard in your face then I find 20g works better. If the water is pretty deep you can go as heavy as your rod will throw pretty much and that will help you get down to the bottom. From the beach especially, being able to throw out to where the fish are feeding makes all the difference. Watch for the birds, they'll be chasing the baitfish that are being scared and/or shredded near the surface. If you can cast out to where the birds are hovering/diving, you almost can't not catch fish. Do be careful though, sometimes birds can be fooled by lures as well.

Also found that very interesting. The jigs need spikes up front as well as at the back!

Nice catches! Persistence pays off eh

Shops have them in the same area as the mouse/rat/duck/bat imitations. Some also come with bibs.

All of the above lol

Google shows butterfish, diamond fish, silver batfish all with each other's photos! Looks dead similar to fish in the States we called a butterfish.

My bad, didn't realise the OP was referring only to casting lures. Should've read more carefully.

I use braid mainline and fluoro leader. I generally match them or use a heavier leader. I tie the FG knot and use about two rod lengths of leader. Runs through very smoothly. As for losing line or leader on snags, if the ground is that bad I tie the lead on a "rotten link" at the end. In other words, a bit of mono about half the strength of my main line. That's the only but I lose.

Some of the same rules apply as in salt water, some are different: Most fish like structure, whether to hide from predators or to hide from prey. Agree with bigneil about marking fish and trolling that depth. Worms on small hooks with floats can be very deadly. If you're camping you may be able to put out traps for yabbies (check legality of course, I don't know for that area). Good for live bait or a feed. There's no tidal flow so fish activity patterns are influenced by daylight, weather, water temperature. Just like salt water, knowing what you're chasing and their specific habits is most of the battle. For trolling, casting, or float fishing, contour lines can be very productive. Spinnerbaits are good for fresh water, you can pick up the spinners by themselves and convert nearly any SP jig into a spinnerbait that's good for casting with a slow roll retrieve or for trolling. Control the depth of the lure with the weight of the jig head and speed of troll/retrieve. Spinnerbait are sensitive to trolling/retrieving too fast, so make sure you drop them alongside the boat to check how they run in the water and adjust accordingly. If it's too fast you'll see them leaning on an angle and they'll tend to skip up out of the water.