caranx

There are spots I fish that are left as rubbish dumps by the people fishing at night for tailor etc. Bins dont solve the problem, they may a little, but but not much. People are just lazy... I dont understand how , if they walk in with this stuff they wont walk out with it. Fines ! Anyone seen leaving crap behind should be fined !

Make sure you get ones that you can cast. Some of the larger ones weigh a bit so your outfit needs to be up to it. The ones I use range from 80-150grams. Slow twitch them, or wind them in faster so they skip, or use the rod side to side. You will need to practice to see what works with each type. Smith runbohs are awesome looking- scary when throwing them off the rocks at kings as you dont want to lose them. They do work on kings, but at times they will just swim and tail them to have a look. Play around with them and you'll love them.

These work. Sold here in different colours to these under blackjack or nomad brand. The daiwa version works too.

I think the J series was meant for jigging so have a few extra bits. Definitely worth keeping and using. It may not lay braid down well so test that out, but with mono should work fine.

You need to make sure the hole is centered correctly through the wood. Hard to do with a hand drill. Ive tried but now just buy lures ready made until I get some better wood working equipment. $15 for a popper is pretty cheap, x-rap minnows are mid $20's, and then those tiny japanese bream and bass lures are even more.

Yep, and the next sizes up. They are great.....work a treat on bonnnies, salmon, tailor etc.... All those x-raps with the shallow bibs work well. Havent used the deep divers too much. Fav colours are the blue coloured ones, and the white ones..

There have a been a few posts and links for gar spinning. I prefer a single hook through the mouth, out the gills and pinned through the belly to keep the action. Tie up the beak, pink squid over the top and a small sinker and its ready. If you need to cast further, use gangs. You can use thin wire around the head, proper ballyhoo wire heads, or bait mate to secure it .

Id take the nitro over the rapala..... so what did you decide?

20lb is 9kg line....If you put 20lb braid on it you would be fine instead of mono. It would fit on better and cast a lot better.

Scotty.....they are around..... Some large schools around but they are travelling between headlands and are only coming on at certain times for 15-20 mins at a time and some legal kings in there. Loads of large salmon around at the moment as well, but bonnies are starting to show up too.

If you have an ice box thats ok, but if not and you are leaving them on the rocks etc, bleed. Personally I always bleed regardless .

Do you want to remove it on purpose ? In that case you might as well buy a normal braid like fins or something else instead . Eventually fireline softens up. And the good thing about the coating is that it helps prevent wind knots etc.

Plenty of undersize fish around at the moment. Saw many kept landbased as well, but you have buckleys of ever seeing an officer in those rock spots. Every one I landed on the weekend was in the 55-60cm range no matter how big a lure or bait was used.

Sluggo's in various sizes

Pike...they dont last too long as live baits , but make good slab baits.

Both..crap braid and knots. If your braid is pulling through you need to use more turns-its usually double what you would use for mono. Just to confirm, you are tying a double in the braid and then albrighting the leader on. An albright will hold,else you can use a cairns quickie knot . Or you could just double the braid over itself and use that to tie a double uni knot connection.

If you want to get it to dive without using a sinker you can get specially made rigs that fit over the nose and incorporate a diving style bib to stop them spinning. They are usually called ballyhoo rigs. Else, a sinker and squid skirt work just as well.

By deep, he meant that you are placing the hook too far into the yakkas back. You only just need it to go under the top of the back. If you puncture to close to the lateral line it will die. Ive had livies sit out in the wash for hours (obviously a slow day!) and still come back ok. I never cast them out though. I lob them in under a torpedo float or small balloon and then let the current / wind and thier swimming take them out. If chasing kings, you dont need to cast them out far anyway. You can also nose hook them as kings take them head first mostly. I use just a battery powered aerator and the yakkas do fine, but on location store them in a rock pool and bucket water in every so often. Im not a fan of casting yakkas out far as you can rip the hooks out, plus stun the fish to much. as to how deep you let the livei swims depends on the location. In some areas a few metres , others closer to the top. You just dont want them swimming down into the rocks and snagging you up and becoming squid food too easy.

We use the x-raps 30's and they work fine. How are you rigging them up ? I usually run a split ring and solid ring connector on the front or just a large snap swivel.

Ive purchased plenty of gear from o/s that cant be found in AUS. Never had any issues, though with the dollar where it is at the moment the saving isnt as big as it used to be. Most of those places send things registered and insured so you dont have any problems.

Whats the main reason for changing them - catch and release or different hook up rates? Singles work on lures but not all lures, and whilst I havent tried circle hooks on lures , I dont know if they would work. Circles generally work best when you dont have to strike as they slide back up and into the corner. On a hard bodied lure it may be difficult and you may miss more fish . If you want a single hook maybe try a decoy jig hook or some other kind of live bait hook. As for the action, you will need to test to see if it impacts it...either on the water or swimming pool. You didnt mention actually, is this for trolling or casting off the rocks?

With the increasing popularity of Mac's as home P's , you can bet that the numbers of virus's written for them will increase. http://www.smh.com.au/news/breaking/macs-b...6335624796.html Just depends on what you will be doing with the PC and if you can afford to have down time, or if you know how to re-build it should you be unfortunate enough to get a virus.

Bimini to twisted leader via cats paw for a knotless connection Cairns quickie and if you have the tools a PR knot.....

I always rinse my braid out after every session so not too sure. The only other differing factor was the lanox. But not too keen to try and experiment to see if it was the cause as having to ditch several hundred yards of braid as I wasnt confident in it is not a cheap experiment. I still use lanox, but ensure I dont spray the braid with it. Never had any problems with Inox and I had been spraying over the reels and line with it for ages as well. Just too much of a coincidence for me. WD40 and those other sprays, if petroleum based best to avoid in my opinion. If you regularly oil and grease your reels then spray with that stuff it can strip the oil and grease off. Lanox is good in that is leaves a coating on your reels so helps to protect it even more if it is subject to lots of saltwater spray. cheers

Yep, ballistol is for the reel body. My preference is for inox or lanox for all over cleaning. One thing to note is not to spray over your braided lines. Im not sure Lanox affects braid but I had one spool start to break repeatedly and the only cause I could think of was me spraying the spool with lanox or not letting the braid to dry properly after rinsing.