Koalaboi

My clothes have shrunk too over the years! I reckon it's daylight saving: that extra hour of sunlight on the Hills Hoist has ruined my wardrobe. KbB

Hi, I've been checking out wet weather gear (bushwalking + fishing purposes) for a while now. A few things I have learned: 1. You get what you pay for. 2. If you don't look around, you can end up paying a lot more for the same article (honestly, prices can vary hugely!) 3. No garment is entirely waterproof. Breathability and waterproofness aside, and they are issues to look at. But, if the rain is heavy enough it will get up your sleeves and down your neck. Don't argue on this it's a fact. 4. MUSTO waterproof gear (recommended above) varies from $1700 to a bit over $200. Honestly, how can a garment be $1500 more waterproof than a $200 garment? Would this be for a market that sails boats whose carbon fibre sails alone cost millions? Try checking out bushwalking and hiking sites for waterproof gear and I reckon you'll find something that suits your needs that is much more affordable. KB

I have recently decided to get back into bushwalking and, being 67, my sons told me that should get a PLB. So I did. I wear it on me whenever I go out for a walk. I recently saw the article below. The sailor was lost overboard in remote waters in the Arafura Sea. His PLB saved his life. Coincidentally, I have the same PLB. It is quite small, very light and comes with a clip to attach to your life jacket. Worth getting IMO. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-02-24/rescued-sailor-nigel-fox-praised-by-emergency-crews/13184970 KB

The groper Steve-o refers to is most likely a very much loved local by everyone who lives, swims, surfs and snorkels in the area. Honestly, I would not like to be the person who caught this feller if anyone from the area saw me!! KB

Hi, Seems to me a popular spot like this could be closed when conditions are not right for fishing in much the same way as SLSC and Council Lifeguards close the beaches on days when it is too dangerous. Shouldn't be too hard. SLSC and Lifeguards are on patrol at Pt Kembla Beach which is very close by. They're the ones who end up having to risk their lives to save people so maybe they have a right to have a say anyway. I was once a SLSC club and patrol captain and closing the beach was an easy option to take with lives of the public and especially members possibly at risk. KB

Bit of a left field response to your post. But. I used to use SPs all the time for flatties and it was so productive. And then things slowed down. Considerably. After some time I decided to try live poddies. Wouldn't go back to plastics. I know that SPs have advantages: you don't have to catch and keep poddies alive etc but I have seen poddies out fish SPs (when I was the one flicking SPs) so many times... Just the same, I understand the lure of lure fishing and if that what's tickles your fishing fancy then go for it. KB

Hi, With many years of rock fishing, surfing and surf life saving experience behind me I feel the most important factor in rock fishing safety is informed experience of the fisher: a. Just being able to swim does not cut it for me, what you need to ask is can you safely surf in swell of more than 1 metre? (body surf, boogie board, surf board etc). Having knowledge of how waves break and how to negotiate their power is different to being able to swim a hundred metres or more in a pool. Each cubic metre of water weighs 1,000kg. Waves literally have many tons of power that can easily knock a person over. b. It's been mentioned before in this thread but deserves repeating: the swell size and direction and period are very important factors to consider. Long period swells are much more powerful than short period swells. Any swell over one metre is likely to make many spots too dangerous to fish. Some spots are safer to fish depending on their exposure to different swell directions. All too often, drowning deaths where fishers have been washed in occur during swells that I would not even consider rock fishing as an option. For up to date information on swell size, direction and period have a look at https://www.mhl.nsw.gov.au/Station-SYDDOW For the days in question for this thread, the wave height can be seen in this graph: The wave period in this: These two graphs show that last Friday and Saturday waves up to 7 metres with a period of 15 seconds were around. In short, a very large and powerful swell. By contrast, yesterday's graphs show a much smaller swell with a period down to 5 seconds. The period is a really important indicator as swell size out to sea is often higher than the swells that hit the coast, never the less, whilst a 7m swell at sea may not be 7m on the coast, it's still too big to consider rock fishing at most spots. Secondly, the period of 15 seconds is close to the top of the range: anything over 10 seconds means the swell has some power to it. c. Tides: a rising tide will often see a small jump in the size and power of the waves hitting a rock platform. It also means that your spot is closer to sea level making you more exposed to the waves. d. The spot you choose: What direction does it face? How will different direction swells affect safety? What happens to the water once it washes over a platform? Where does it drain to the sea? Does it gather momentum as it does so? What is your escape route both over the rock platform to get away from a wave or, if washed in, how do you swim to a safe place to exit the water? e. Knowing your own limitations. Places I fished when I was in my twenties are not places I would consider now 40 years later, I am simply not as strong, fit or agile as I was then. Like bushwalking, the limitations of your group are determined by the member of your fishing party who is, for want of a better term, the weakest link. There are lots of other things to consider: Fishing alone? Appropriate footwear which as stated before, can vary from place to place. For each spot that is wiped out by swell there will be other spots that can be fished safely if you get to know your area well. That may mean fishing in harbours, estuaries or protected bays. I think sometimes people decide they want to fish a particular place for some reason and they don't/won't entertain the idea of perhaps having a range of spots to go to depending on swell, wind and tide. Stay safe, KB

Hi, The area you mention is very shallow, weedy and muddy. You may do OK if you walk out to the end of one of the jetties. I would suggest that you go to Picnic Point closer to The Entrance. There’s plenty of parking too. The channel there is good fishing for flatties, bream, luderick, whiting etc. There are good facilities there for families with toilets, BBQs and a skate ramp for the kids. The shops are close by (only a few minutes walk) and so is The Entrance Memorial Park with the Ferris Wheel and other rides in the park, play equipment etc Lots of families go there so get in early is my advice! KB

Hi everyone, Had a difficult morning this morning as I fished for flatties at the Entrance Channel. Having waded out some 30 metres from the walkway near the Memorial Park, I was drifting live poddies under a float. I'd managed one and, on putting it in my keeper net, saw a gull flapping awkwardly on the surface as the tide ran out hard towards me. It was tangled up in line and the fisher, on the shore, seemed to be trying to bring it in. It's not a big deal, just get it in, untangle it and release it. Minutes later I returned to my gear to see the gull drifting towards me still tangled. I thought I might be able to catch it. A bystander was coming out from the shore to help rescue it but the line it was tangled in caught on a rock. I tried to reach it but the water was too deep and the current was racing. It drowned. I asked the guy who'd come out if the fisher had cut his line and he replied that he had. I was really quite angry but decided to get on with my fishing. 5 minutes later, I'm into a solid fish (turned out somewhere near 70cm). I get her in to find her tangled in line. I pulled on the line and brought in the seagull attached to it. I put her in my keeper net and wound in all the line the guy had discarded to get rid of the seagull. There was quite a bit. Furious by this stage, I waded over with the dead bird and his discarded line and returned it all to him giving him an angry lecture about fishing in a responsible way. I told him that it was one of the worst things I had seen in 50 years of fishing. He said he didn't mean for it to happen. I replied that he didn't make much of an effort to free the bird. He packed up and left not long after. He should have been ashamed and really embarrassed as there was a bit of an audience as I gave him a serve. I have tangled gannets, cormorants and gulls and have always been able to get them in and free them. It takes time and patience but it's doable. A bit of a vent I know but, was I right to call him out in front of people? It's cowboys like this feller (and he was a bit of a cowboy) who give fishing a bad name. Fishing responsibly is really important. I let the big girl go and it was a pleasure to see her swim off. KB

Well done JamoDamo, Some good stories to tell your mates back at school! KB

Throwing money at expensive fishing gear can be a real trap for a beginner. I found that over time I have learned how to look after tackle by breaking it...I'm glad I did not rush out and spend too much at first. I do now have some quality gear but not super expensive. I like to build my own rods and that can save a bit of money as long as you have the patience and interest. I also think that the quality of the tackle is only ever going to be as good as the fisher using it. Personally I struggle to see the point in spending hundreds of dollars on a rod. You'd have to have lots of money to do that. The advice above to try looking for second hand gear is good. There's heaps online at the usual places. The kind of fish you are after and where you fish are also important. Are you looking to be able to deal with fish over or under 5kg? Will you have to cast long distances? Do you wish to flick some soft plastics? My general purpose rod for estuary fishing would be about 7 to 8 feet long and fairly light using a 2000 to 2500 reel teamed up with 8lb to 10lb braid with a monofilament leader. I'd be looking at chasing fish like bream, whiting, tailor, salmon, trevalley and flathead. Braid is a little more difficult to use than mono (especially tying knots and undoing tangles) but, it casts so much better and is much more sensitive to bites. Bigger fish will need a heavier outfit but a light rod like this will handle the majority of fish you are likely to hook into. Good luck. KB

Thanks Neil, A great read with lots of helpful tips about a fish I'd love to catch. KB

Thanks Donna, Looks like a good plan. KB

Hi everyone, I can appreciate how the articles are clogging up the top of the Chat page. But, rather than hide them so they only become available on searching, might it not be a good idea to have a separate forum in the General Fishing section? It could be caalled articles or Fishing Tips etc. KB

Sounds to me like you did everything right...sometimes the floats just lean over with the current and also the wind. As long as the bait is getting down to the depth you want it to and, the constant retrieving and casting due to the super-fast drift isn't bothering you, the fishing can still be good. If the depth you set isn't happening, you may like to switch to a fixed float rather than running. KB

The NT looks pretty darned fine from where I am sitting! Daydream material. KB

I gave up on finish coating fibreglass rods. It always ends up scratched or peeling. The last product I bought, a water based product and very expensive, was absolutely hopeless turning a milky colour on contact with water and then going soft. KB

Great yarn wazza thanks for sharing.

Great advice Waza! kb

Hi jamo, I was asked by Donna to put my long post above into an article so i did and substantially expanded it and added some pictures etc. You might like to take a look at it, KB

I find that depth range works well in most depths of water though I have fished deeper than that on occasions but very, very rarely.

Hi damo, If your float pops up or is on its side because you are too close the the bottom, it's because your lead has hit the bottom. If you have a trace of 30cm and raise the depth 30cm you can still get snagged. You might like to raise it a bit further. In my experience, blackfish usually feed around 4 to maybe 8 feet deep, frequently shallower but rarely much deeper. Water clarity sometimes sends them down a bit if the water is really super clear and and especially if there is bright sun. But mostly 5 to 6 feet down. KB

Thanks Donna, JamoDamo has really been having a red hot dig over time and it was a privilege to be able to help him out. You guys do a great job with this site which is always positive and respectful. I'm glad to be a part of it. KB

Hi JamoDamo, The shot is to keep varying your tackle, bait, working on your strike and the playing of the fish: 1. Tackle: I often find that missed strikes are usually due to not enough lead below the float. Try adding tiny bits of split shot (oo or ooo sizes) one at a time till your float is so delicately balanced that just a little is above the water, it may even submerge briefly as a wave comes through where you are fishing. is your line greased with vaseline above the float to your rod tip? I grease it every time I go fishing. It makes it easy to lift the line from the water when you strike and is one of the best tips I can give you. If your line sinks it makes an effective strike very difficult. ensure that there is not too much slack line between your float and the rod...if you can have a straight line to the float it's much better when you strike. Don't let it be too tight or you will be dragging the float which the fish will feel. On days when currents or wind see the line quickly develop a belly between rod and float, it pays to lift the line and straighten it when needed during each drift. try varying the depth, sometimes they can be feeding surprisingly close to the surface, but more often deeper before each session re-tie all the knots in your terminal tackle and put in a fresh length of leader what size hook are you using? I use Mustad size 8 540-BR hooks what size is your leader? I use either 6lb or more often 8lb fluorocarbon how long is your leader? I don't like it shorter than 30 cm from lead to hook up to 50cm or more long is the leader in good condition? It may be frayed or even have a wind knot from casting so you need to check and replace as needed. I often re-tie the hook after landing 4 or 5 fish as the last couple of inches of the leader (I half hitch my bait onto the line above the hook) and the knot do weaken after catching a few. 2. Strike The most common reasons for a failure to hookup after a down are premature striking, too much belly in your line between the rod and float and a jerky strike which telegraphs resistance to the fish before the hook can set. To start, not all downs are downs.....sometimes the float can pop up or jiggle sideways so you need to be on the lookout for that. If the float is popping up, it means the fish is taking the bait and swimming up so I will decrease the depth below the float if I am not hooking up from the rising float type of bite. When you get a down, how long do you wait till you strike? My default timing is to count slowly to around 8. Sometimes longer sometimes shorter. I saw one FR up here the other day count to 20! The longest wait I've ever seen but, he got the fish! Each session can be different so experiment. While waiting between down and strike, do you gently take up any slack and have the rod tip down and pointed at the float? If not, you should. Make sure that you do not pull on the float till you strike. It has to be one smooth motion. Some of the respected luderick fisherman up my way call me the dentist because they reckon I strike so hard, I'll pull the fishs' teeth out! (I learned to fish for luderick off the rocks where a harder strike is often needed to take up the slack in rougher conditions than still water fishing to ensure I hook the fish.) It's taken me a while to break the habit but as I now fish more in the still water of Tuggerah Lakes, I try to strike with one smooth but continuous lift of the rod, while reeling in the line and found it better. It often happens that at the end of a drift, just when you decide to reel in and cast again, that a fish might be at your bait and you have not noticed. It pays to assume that you may have a down, so take up the slack and gently lift your rod at the start of your retrieve just in case. 3. Playing the fish Most fish escapes once hooked, come from trying to drag them in too quickly. Don't rush. Using a centrepin reel, it's easy to let the fish take some line at the start of the fight and during the fight. If fishing where there are waves, you need to be careful as they will use the strength of the wave to make a dash for freedom right at your feet. Give line whenever they take off and by the time they're ready to be netted or grabbed, they're on the surface, tired and easy to grab, net or wash onto the shore. Exceptions to giving line include steering them clear of rocks, barnacles, clumps of weed etc Keep your rod up high when playing a fish so that the flex in the rod cushions any sudden lunges 4. Bait sometimes the fish prefer cabbage (esp if near the ocean) I prefer cabbage that is a bright, shiny green but usually if the fish are biting, they are not too fussy (most of the time!) there are different kinds of weed: wire or soft, and some of the soft weed can vary greatly too in colour and texture sometimes the brown algae or ribbon weed seem to do the trick though I don't really go there that often how you present the bait on the hook. I mostly use cabbage and every fisher has their own way of baiting up. I push the hook through the bottom of the cabbage twice leaving some below the bend of the hook, then gently twist or fold the top of the bait around the top of the hook and secure it onto the leader with 2 half hitches above the eye of the hook.One problem I see is putting too much bait on the hook. Some blokes just fold a bait a few times into a little parcel and push the hook through leaving most of the hook bare. when baiting with weed, select a length of strands, not too much and wind it around the shank above the eye then wind it in the opposite direction back down leaving a centimetre or two below the bend of the hook. Different kinds of weed determine how many times and how tightly you wind the weed onto the hook. Hope this helps. After a while, you will start doing these adjustments as a matter of course. Just the same, some days they are just very hard to hook. Also, I often find that when getting downs with no or few hookups, that the fish are usually very small (though not always!) Sometimes a tide change can make all the difference. Keep at it, it's worth it in the long run. KB

See: http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/Articles/Display/18884-A-great-time-for-Luderick http://filleting.fish/Articles/Display/20213-Break-out-the-winter-woollies http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/Articles/Display/18884-A-great-time-for-Luderick http://fishingmonthly.net.au/Articles/Display/7217-Luderick-lessons-at-the-Pin https://www.swanboathire.com.au/2013-Fishing-Reports/fishing-feature-luderick-play-dirty.html KB