wrxhoon1

I don't normally post fishing reports but I thought this was worth publishing. With good weather despite the tsunami warning we decided to head out last Monday. Launched the GW at Ermington about 5:40 and headed straight out to the Botany Bay fads to check the dollies. Found some small models only, we checked out a private fad more of the same so we made the call to put the spread out and try for a beakie. We rolled around the 12 mile finding plenty bait but no strikes . A couple hours later we had a strike but no hook up. That was encouraging so we kept at it some time later the port side short Tiagra started screaming by the time I pull the rod out a nice striped marlin put on a show. About 30 minutes into the fight he got tail wrapped about 100 mtrs from the boat. I slowly dragged him on the side of the boat tag him, took the hooks off and let him go to fight another day. We trolled for at least another hour and half for one miniature dollie, not a lot bigger than the lure. Shortened version of the video on you tube. The Marlin are here, get out before they move on. The sea was much more like a summers day in the Mediterranean rather than Pacific until about 2pm.

Weight of the boat won't be on rego papers on any state . Trailer tare and GVM will be but that will not help. A lot of boat/trailer combos are over the trailers GVM and of course ilegal.

I think she is SA built boat, weight will depend on motor, batteries , gear, fuel and trailer. Best thing to do is put her on a weighbridge . If she is on a single axle trailer she will be well under 2000 kg ( probably around 1500-1600 kg) CX5 not my choice for towing but she is legal to tow that boat and if she is AWD you wont have any problems pulling her out and towing short distances.

I thought you decided on the Simrad so I put up some measurements for you. It is up to you to decide what MDF you want, one that suits your needs. I would say go to a shop and try them out, rather than read articles and ask others . What suits me or others may/maynot suit you.

If you have at least 90mm near the top at the center of the unit and a minimum of 170 where all the plugs go you will be fine.

For Nss evo 3, 12", you need 80 mm clearance for the unit and that's only a small part near the top . You will also need about 170mm clearance where the plugs fit to the unit about half way down from the top. The unit maybe about 100 mm thick but part of it will stick out. It is best to have a look at one on display. Cut out measurements supplied by Simrad should be fine, they even supply you with a templet.

You won't have any brake problems now, I bet you paid through the nose if you bought them here. I'm not keen on the rubber on your dust seals, I have seen them leak, if you keep them make sure you check them often. I like Bearing buddies but I will only use genuine B/B brand. I know you have the hollow stub with the zerk and they are suppose to grease both the inner and out bearings when you pump them but I prefer B/B/s so the whole hub is full of grease. Make sure you use a good double lip seal preferably not Chinese. The other thing, if you want your wheel studs to stay clean use acorn nuts, I use S/S as well but chrome are fine. The nuts will eventually rust on the outside but the thread is still protected. If you decide to use S/S nuts use some anti seize lubricant because S/S tends to bind, you have to be careful doing them up and taking them off. It is a good idea to use anti seize on any wheel studs especially ones you dunk in salt water.

Someone is making some margin there.. I can buy them from a retailer in USA for US $200, even at the current exchange rate it works out AU $275.00 a long way from $750. I can buy a full S/S brake kit to do one axle for US $ 740, AU $1014, the kit has everything you need in S/S, 2 calipers, 2 mounting brackets, 2 rotors and 4 mounting bolts, the only other parts you need 2 lazy hubs.

Good outcome but Easytow should have chased it up and they should supply you with new calipers or at the very least piston kits.

Did you try Thompson Mitsi in Parramatta? I think they have a white 4x2 single cab auto there.

Assuming you are looking to buy new. Triton's are best value out of the Jap brand utes ( built in Thailand) , My choice would be a diesel 4x4 auto. Single cab if fine . no problem towing 2000 kg, rated for 3t I think. I wouldn't buy the petrol , she will be gutless and chew the fuel too. The 4x2 will tow your boat just as well as the 4x4, of course the 4x4 is much better on slippery or sand topped ramps and better driving on the road in the wet if it comes with the auto 4x4 option. Don't be tempted to buy Chinese, they are cheaper but........

This is from Easytow's Website. It states S/S calipers and Dacromet rotors. That is false advertising and you are entitled to remedy under AU consumer law. Send them an email and bring it to their attention and see what they say. HEAVY DUTY I -Beam Rails D.G.S. – Easytow’s ultra-strong Drive-On Guidance System designed to direct your boat towards the centre of the trailer Stainless Steel calipers & Brake Lines Vented Dacromet rotors Goodyear/Dunlop Tyres Premium galvanised jockey wheel Supa-Lube bearing protection system Torsionbar axles system with removable stub Optional Spare wheel mount or spare stub and hub mount ADR compliant trailer Wide Target Area (W.T.A) for bringing your boat onto the trailer Dexter Braking Actuator Full Keel Roller system with sleeves in the P.U. rollers for less rolling friction Premium Winch Alloy Wheels Custom made to suit most fishing boats Fish & Sports Galvanised Trailer Options Learn more about the options offered to customise your trailer even further including wheel options, brake options, suspension options, walkways etc... Read More Hull Support & Reception Galvanised Trailer Options Learn more about the Hull Support Options and the choices available to customise your trailer. Read More

I don't know what the invoice with Easytow or the retailer you purchased it from says but if it says S/S brakes you have a good case because they failed to supply with the correct brake calipers. The other thing is consumer law guarantee . I would expect the S/S brakes, besides the pad wear, to last more than 4 years if so they have failed on that as well. At the very least I would be asking them to supply the parts for free . I would also second Zoran's thinking, not sure if Deemaxx would supply S/S housings with mild steel pistons . To me that doesn't add up but then again I could be wrong. You can't trust anyone these days, you need to double check everything you buy to make sure you get what you asked and paid for.

I'm not so sure that Deemaxx would make S/S caliper housing with mild steel piston, if anything should be the other way around, S/S piston and dacromet caliper housing. Do they have "Deemaxx" on the housings? I never used them but I always thought they were the same as Kodiak, they even use the same pads as Kodiak. How old is your trailer?

Zoran, the first thing you want S/S is the piston, next the housing, then sliding bolts, then the rotor and lastly the bracket. I can't understand why he has mild steel rotor and S/S housing. I won't even use steel bundy tube, I use braided flexi, you can buy them in USA as a kit for like $150 for the lot to do a dual axle trailer.

I use Kodiak full stainless steel , that is S/S calipers , S/S housing and piston, S/S brackets, S/S sliding bolts ( with grease where they slide) and Vented S/S rotors. This trailer is 9 years old on the second set of pads still working without any overhauls . Previous trailer had the same set up for years when sold still all working but rotors were a bit warn. Kodiak was the first USA brake manufacturer to make stainless steel brakes for trailers, I bought my first set in USA back in late 90's and installed them in Aussie built trailer with some mods to fit them on. At the same time I bought a Hydrastar actuator so I did away with the old Vacuum brakes. I must say the actuator was a bit slow to react back then but still worked OK. American trailers don't need any mods, straight bolt on with a set of brackets . Prior to that I had the normal solid rotors with what they called in AU marine calipers that worked for a few years with a lot of maintenance. I would never use none S/S brakes on a boat trailer than gets dunked in salt . Much more expensive to start with bit much cheaper in the long run. I will never use roller trailer either, bunk trailers are much better for the boat and for trailering on the road, put slides on and she is almost like a roller trailer. Deemaxx came on much later and I believe ex Kodiak employees started the company, they do make all S/S brakes. I don't know why you have mild steel pistons, looks like they haven't worked for a long time. Your rotor is not S/S either. I can easily lock the trailer brakes if I pull the lever.

Looks like a late 80's /early 90's Frazer, WA built.

As long as the winch post plate doesn't interfere your best bet is to cut the U bolts a little. Take them off put the nuts back on, cut the bolts to the desired length and smooth the ends with a grinder or file then undo the nuts, if they come off easy it means the threads are good if not don't force them off file them a bit more on a 60 degree angle .

Same here, nautical miles for speed and metres for depth.

F250 4.2 Yamaha, service interval for water pump is 3 years /300 hours . Mercury 250 Optimax on my previous boat was the same . If you operate in muddy water or you run it dry ( I have seen people start them on the boat ramp out of the water) more frequent service is required. Mercs have a water pressure gauge, if you happen to damage the impellor, pressure will drop somewhat so you will know to inspect it long before she overheats.

This is what you need one side screwed on your current pick up, the other side points downwards . You need another tube to fit on the bit that points down cut 45 degrees pointy bit facing back so water is forced in the tube when underway. If the inlet to the tank is on the top of the tank you are sweet. If the inlet is on the bottom of the tank you need a check valve between the pick up and the tank otherwise the tank will empty when stationary with pump off. Ideally your waste tube should be 40 mm with a grill on the top to stop livies going down. If your waste pipe is smaller it may not keep up, I have seen Quinies with 25 mm pipe but I don't know if they overflow . I have 40 mm in mine with a clam pick up and 800 gal pump no issues overflowing.

That will work perfect stationary with the pump on and under way with pump on or off. You can find one ay Bunnings that will screw on your fitting, if not any irrigation shop. You can't use the strainer you have now though . I have seen a lot of Quintrex boats with the same set up as yours fitted from factory . I don't know what they are thinking, it's never going to work when underway.

Berleyguts, Swing drawbars are legal in Australia. Years ago Imported a trailer that had one ( Karavan brand, it was part of the Brunswick corporation ). The swing was welded on but I can't see why a bolted one would be different. She had hydraulic brakes with flexi brake lines, they don't use cable brakes in USA, it worked well. I think Felk trailers on lake Macquarie fit them to some of their boat trailers with cable brakes. You may have to disengage the cable in order to swing it. Good luck in house hunting, I can't remember a worse time to buy a house then again I can't remember a better time to sell. The state government are the biggest winners with stamp duty and land tax. I don't know about PS but in my area (Hills in Sydney) everything goes to auction.

As you can see I have several to choose from. I have the same as Zoran but I prefer my custom made using 2 hoses . Maybe Jon is saying that the plastic pipes crack? My twin pipe are rubber muffs but plastic pipes.