wrxhoon1

It was Council that cut the tree back then, In my opinion they didn't cut enough. They told me at the time that shouldn't be in the way . I asked them to remove the curved kerb about 1 mt closer to the toilet block. Their answer " we haven't had any complaints about that". I guess if a lot of boaties complained about it they would have to do something . It was last October that I requested, maybe time to do it again. Wed, 23 Oct 2019 at 9:18 am Thank you for submitting your request to City of Ryde. Your reference number is 2275801. Your request has now been referred to a Council Officer for investigation. Should you wish to discuss this matter further, please contact Council at cityofryde@ryde.nsw.gov.au or phone 02 9952 8222 to speak to a Customer Service Officer. Regards, Customer Service City of Ryde

Glad you had a good day Zoran and a good feed of flathead. You should have enough hours on the new donk by now as well. The Asian guy you saw at Wharf rd boat ramp is there frequently especially on cold winter mornings . Nothing wrong with the launching ramp there but I agree with the cleaning table it is a disgrace, I won't clean any fish there . As for walking the boat to the trailer it doesn't effect me as I drive off, drive on. One thing I don't like coming back in the afternoon in summer I find several boats hogging the pontoon going nowhere. All I need to do is dock for 5 seconds to drop my driver off and go away until the trailer is backed, drive on ( no more than 2 minutes) and get out of there. The other issue is the bloody tree on the left side when driving up, I had to watch my hardtop and the way the kerb is curved on the other side you had to watch so you don't scrape the tyres on it. I have 8 ply truck tyres but I still don't want to compromise my sidewalls. I wrote to the council last year and they trimmed the tree, much easier now. There are 3 more boat ramps close by, Silverwater bridge , Putney and Rhodes, all suitable for large trailer boats. I prefer wharf rd because they have cameras on the carpark and less road traffic going back home. I don't know if you are aware but all the area around Melrose Park , all the way from Victoria rd down to the boat ramp on the western side will be re-developed, all up about 10,000 apartments. When completed I very much doubt you will be able to find parking anywhere near the ramp.

I know you don't mix the oil in the petrol tank. The engine injects oil that mixes with the petrol in the crankcase to lubricate bearings and pistons. Oil injection has been around for decades now. I had an oil injected 220 Yamaha back in early 1980's. Even direct injection two strokes have been around a long time now. The invention was by accident back in the 70's . It was Ralph Sarich that invented his so called orbital engine design, well that didn't work but the actual induction system did. He tried to convince car manufacturers to adopt it and failed but some marine engine manufacturers took it on . By the way there is nothing wrong with Etec, Merc Opti, etc... They are comparable in fuel consumption with modern 4 strokes and make good power for their weight because they fire every second stroke instead of every 4th. Less moving parts than 4 strokes, much simpler and less maintenance, the only negatives much harder to comply with emissions, noisier than 4 strokes at low to mid range and not as smooth as 4 strokes . That's why nobody makes them now. Everything has a due by date. If you do some research on orbital engine you will find about Ralph Sarich. By the way he went on to become a billionaire.

That's true Jon, reversing especially with wind from the right direction you can get some smell, you will get that with some 4 strokes as well ( to a lesser extend). You are burning a lot more oil in a 2 stroker as it is mixed with the fuel in the crankcase. I moved on from 2 strokes just like every manufacturer has as well. No comparison with 4 strokes, they idle rough and much noisier at idle and mid range and more difficult to reduce emissions that's mainly the reason they are finished. The weight advantage they use to have is mostly gone. I have to say my last 2 stroker was a 250 Merc optimax and she served me well and about the same or even less fuel use as my current 4.2 lt 250 Yamaha. If I was to re-power my current boat It will be a Merc V8 300 hp. Having said that nothing wrong with my Yam, I prefer Mercs .

Direct injection 2 strokes are not smokey and similar fuel consumption as 4 strokes ( Etec, Merc Optimax, Yamaha HPDA and Tohutsu TLDI).

Not a good idea to use marine grease on rubber, could effect the rubber. you can use rubber grease though.

Have you thought of looking at an older boat with a 2 stroke engine? Buy that and re-power? Say a 10 yo in good nick , not much will go wrong as long as she was trailer kept, then spend $25k to re-power with a new 4 stroke engine . You have a reliable engine and $4-5 k for the latest electronics then the only other thing to worry is the trailer if you travel long distances. I think you will be able to find the boat your after within your budget but maybe not in WA. By all means look a late model boat but if I was you I would keep my options open . Good luck in your search.

Stejcraft 580 is half the boat Haines signature 650 F is. It is not what he is looking for and they have very small fuel tanks . They maybe close to 6 mts long but what do they measure? Like I said before a true 6 mt boat you don't count the bowsprit ( they always do when part of the hull) or the very pointy nose and do they count the rear swim steps as well? Thats the reason they are light, they are small. They have a bigger boat as well but even that is not what he is looking for. That's not to say they are not suitable or good boats, I don't know where they are made or what method they use . From what I understand he wants a more seaworthy boat ( bigger, heavier) with better offshore capabilities and a much bigger fuel tank, minimum 200 lts but preferably even bigger.

Add to your list Formula and Evolution, I know evolution are hand laid , not sure on formula but I think a mixture of shopped and hand laid. I haven't been in the formula but they are based on the old Haines formula 23 hull. I have been in the evo 652 and they ride very well. F/G boats 6 mtrs plus ( true 6 mt not like most manufacturers measuring the bow sprit as well) are over $100K for a combo including trailer and will weigh at 2500 kg plus fueled, gear and trailer, don't go on the specs they supply as that maybe for bare minimum so you will need electric over hydraulic brakes. I'm sure you can find a so called 6mt boat combo with minimum hp and minimum fittings on a trailer with over-ride brakes, especially a lesser known brand for under $100k, maybe even at your budget. I think if you want a well known brand with some electronics a legal trailer and a 150 plus hp you will have to look at used, by the way if you find a 2-3 yo with a lot more hours than 100 don't walk away, engines don't wear out, age kills them , corrosion etc... unless used commercially. I know charter boat operators that do 4000-5000 hours before they re-power. The other problem you have WA is a small market for used boats and shipping from East would be very expensive. Good luck in your search it will be interesting to see what you end up with.

Normally you have a flat rubber washer not O ring but the O ring should work . Go to an auto parts and get another O ring if you can't find it in a boat shop. 2 lts of water all day fishing? That could come from anywhere even backing in from the bilge pump outlet . If you want to make sure it is coming from the bung put some water in the hull when she is on the trailer then you will be sure if it comes from there.

Good choice not to say there is anything wrong with Yamaha. Either engine would serve you well of course the 70 would go slightly better and I always like to power my boats with the max rated HP. but that's just me. For the record I prefer Mercs but I have a 250 Yam on my boat. I would definitely use the Flo Torq 2 hub kit . Some facts: The Merc you have there is the same engine as the Yamaha 60 hp. Your Merc is made by Yamaha. I don't know if they use the same gearbox. . dunc333 The Yamaha 70 Hp is sort of the same as the 60 hp Yam but not quite the same, they are the same displacement.. If you notice the weights are different due to the fact that 70 hp has a different head with 16 valves hence the extra weight. The 60 Yam has 8 valves same as Merc 60 ( they are the same engine) with different skin if you like.

Burleyguts got it right but you don't call on the hour or on the half hour. I would suggest you do the course, then you will learn how to use it. If you are going a long way offshore and log on with marine Rescue when you go out, you never know it could save your life . The money you pay is spent on facilities just like your fishing license money. If you look at it way do we pay tax? I know nobody likes paying tax but what would happen if we don't? 3rd world country? A few rich people and every one else starving? No running water, electricity, sewage, roads, transport etc..

Why not lift it one hole and see how you go.

Totally agree Noelm.

JeffB, Your motor may have a 2-1 or even 2.25 -1 gearbox, your mates 130 may have 1.85- 1 box , if you have a 2.25 and his is a 1.85 at the same RPM his prop is spinning faster than yours. Your prop spins 2666 rpm at 6000 flywheel rpm (2.25-1 box) and 3000 (2-1 box). His prop spins 3243 rpm at 6000 fly rpm. Convert that to take in to account the different pitch props . 2666 prop speed (6000 rpm) 19" prop theoretical speed is: 77 kmh 3000 prop speed ( 6000 rpm) 19" prop theoretical speed is: 86 kmh. Your mates 130 with 1.85 box spins the prop 3243 rpm at 6000. 3243 prop speed (6000 rpm) 17" prop theoretical speed is: 84 kmh. His theoretical speed is higher than yours if you have 2.25-1 box and yours higher by 2 kmh if you have a 2-1 box. All well and good but theoretical speed doesn't always transmit to real speed. A lot of other factors come in to it. The boat itself, the position of the engine ( how high or low in the water it is fitted) anything hanging of the transom that is in the water when on the plane ( transducer, water pick up, etc..) prop efficiency, a prop that suits my boat may/not suit yours and so on, trim of the engine, even how you load the boat. Don't go by trim numbers on the gauge , that doesn't mean much. My boats transom maybe XY degrees from vertical and yours could be XYZ. In any case if your top speed is only 67 kmh and it is accurate speed your slip loss is about 14% far too great . You say "some Porpoising" that can be an indication of the engine mounted too low especially if the steering feels heavier on one side . You should be able to find a trim position where the steering feels very neutral. Does the prop cavitate when you turn hard at or close to full speed? If you spin at 6150 with your normal load that is too high. If your prop in in good nick, no dints bends or any other marks, even small can effect it, you need to go up in pitch and or try a different prop, as a rough guide every 1" pitch you go up you will drop 200 RPM. If what you say is correct on RPM and speed a 21" pitch will drop your RPM to 5750-5800. A 4 blade prop will give you better hole shot but lower top end everything else being equal.

Of course more torque and more power by increasing capacity, all else equal , that's what you get with a 2 banger double the capacity of a 4 stroker. After all power =torque x RPM. This is the exact formula. HP = Torque (lbft)x RPM ÷ 5252. At 5252 torque and Hp are equal if look on a graph you will see before 5252 torque curve is above HP after 5252 hp curve goes above torque. Long stroke will give you more torque ( all else equal) but you can't rev a long stroke as much as as shorter stroke, the piston can only travel so fast . Years gone by they use to say you can't substitute cubic inches, again you must compare apples with apples not an old school side valve engine with a modern 4 valve per cylinder direct injection turbo. In any case you have a proven reliable long lasting engine there, if I was to re-power my GW I would go for a V8 Merc 300 hp. Keep in mind an engine that suits your application perfect ( or close to that) it may not suit another application. Looks like you found the right engine for your application, now you won't have to drive to Tunks, you can launch much closer at Melrose, enjoy. They say once you go black you never go back, over the years I owned 3 Mecs all V6 from 200 -250hp, 4 Yamahas from 90 hp to 250 hp and one OMC V4 140 hp. I forgot a few Merc auxiliaries as well from 9.9-25hp. These days I don't bother with auxiliaries, as they get in the way but I won't keep an engine longer than 10 years.

I totally agree with that statement, another thing I found over many years of offshore boating , American built outboard engines are more resistant to corrosion than Jap built engines, both OMC and Brunswick. It must be the alloy the use in the casting . Jeffb, You can't compare a 2 stroke engine ( of any brand) to a 4 stroke for noise. 4 strokers are very quiet at idle speed , almost silent , on a boat like Zorans you will not know it's running if you are not looking at the tacho, just like a modern car. They idle very smooth unlike 2 strokers . Of course at high RPM they are noisy but again much much quieter than 2 st GoingFishing, Your comment about Jeffb is a bit harsh and in my opinion unwarranted. We are here to learn from each other, not have a go on others because they may not know as much as you do.

Zoran, It is a good idea to use higher octane fuel if you leave it for long periods as it degrades over time . I was suggesting the fact that your engine is tuned to run perfect on 91 RON , no benefit in using 98 other than the fact if left for long periods it will take much longer to drop bellow 91 and if it did your computer will retard timing so the engine will not blow up due to knocking/pinging. It will have a knock sensor just like your car has. Of course she will not perform as well because of the retardation of timing. Most cars and marine engines sold in AU are tuned to run on 91 RON because that is our standard fuel. Of course high performance engines are tuned to run on 98. In Europe the standard petrol is 95 RON, all cars there are tuned to run on that . If you can't buy 91 without ethanol you don't have an option but to use 95. Yep don't buy fuel from from no name servos, they sometimes mix it with other none taxable crap to save a few $$$, some of them got caught a few years ago using solvents that didn't have tax. Buy from majors and keep the receipt so you have a come back if there is a problem . In Australia, like most of the world, we use RON ( research octane number ), in USA they use a mix of RON and MON ( motor octane number). They add the 2 and divide by 2 to get their octane rating. Their 87 is equivalent to our 91 to be more accurate it is 90.5 RON. As far as torque goes everything being equal ( but never is) a 2 stroke will have more due to the fact that it fires every time the piston comes up, 4 stroke will fire every second so it is like having a double capacity. You can change the torque on the shaft by gearing, you can for instance have several times more torque in first gear at the shafts than in top gear. You can achieve the same with outboards. The other way to do it, you can reduce the pitch of the prop to create more torque or increase the pitch to reduce it. It acts similar to what the ratio of the final drive in your car. Of course you can't compare old tech engines with the latest and due to the fact that it is harder to meet emissions on a 2 stroke, 4 stroke development has overtaken 2 strokes. 2 stroke outboards are now officially dead with the demise of E-tec. The only 2 strokes remaining are huge marine engines powering big ships, I wonder how long before they go too.

Zoran , Your new engine is tuned for 91 octane, by all means use 95 or 98 it is not going to do any harm but you won't get any benefits using 95/98 octane. Of course you would know not to use ethanol even though she is made to use that crap. Ethanol is corrosive, attracts moisture, separates if left for any time unused and melts rubber hoses . It has less energy per volume so you will use more. I wouldn't use it in anything, not even my mower. SPECIFICATIONS - 150 HP / kW 150 / 110 Engine type 8-valve single overhead cam (SOHC) Inline 4 Displacement (CID/CC) 183 Displacement (L) 3.0 Full throttle RPM 5200-6000 Air induction Performance-Tuned Scroll Intake Manifold Fuel induction system Computer Controlled Multi-Port Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Recommended fuel Unleaded Regular 87 Octane Minimum (R+M/2) or 90 RON 10% Ethanol Maximum

In a few years everything will have trackers built in from the manufacturer , my new car has one. I can also see on my phone in real time where it is parked and who is around it using the cars cameras.

Good work Zoran, that should give you many years of reliable boating, enjoy

Some neighbour doesn't like the trailer there. The boat doesn't have to be registered as long as the trailer is you can park legally there provided the combo is not longer than 7.5 mtrs ( tip of the coupling to tip of the leg). You are correct you have to move it within 28 days at least past the nearest cross street. Have a read on the governments website. Council will have to make an effort to find out who the owner is and if boat and trailer owners are the same before they can impound. https://www.olg.nsw.gov.au/public/about-councils/laws-and-regulations/boat-trailers-declared-areas/#

That would depend on the total weight of the combo. If you think you can get the combo well under 1600 kg including Trailer fuel and anything else you normally will have in the boat go single axle aluminium I beam trailer. I would go bunks, torsion axle with slides as they tow much better than rollers and less maintenance. Dearer to start with but much cheaper in the long run.

I remember them in the 70's and 80's , I don't think they were around in the late 90's but I could be wrong. Not many around at any time and didn't have a good name back then, certainly not in the Haines league. What model are you looking at? I remember the V189 about 18' long runabout, some of them had Chrysler outboards, what a combo.. In any case if you are keen check the boat for soft spots and moisture in the transom ( the usual stuff for any boat) and if it checks ok buy it but has to be very cheap, like motor and trailer value and boat for free.

They were made in Gold coast, as far as I know they went out of business years ago.