wrxhoon1

Definitely not Zoran, you have a serviceable working trailer, why would you upgrade just for the sake of upgrading? You only upgrade if you have problems with it.

Good write up reflecting your experience Zoran . The calipers you are using are old school copied from car calipers not specifically made for marine environment. I use American brakes specifically made for marine use either made by Kodiak or Deemaxx. I have Kodiak on my trailer but Deemaxx are the same . The calipers are designed different as are the pads, no shims even if you wanted to use shims you can't . As you can see in the picture they have S/S backing plates and the inner pad has S/S Springy bracket that fits inside the piston . The outer pad has 2 nibs that fit in the holes in the caliper, the one in the picture has S/S holding bracket as well not really necessary but welcome addition This is the fixed part of the caliper. I have torsion axles, no springs to worry about, they are like the independent suspension you have on the front on your LC. The trailer is much more stable than springs when towing at high speed. Much less maintenance than springs too. Most trailers built in Australia use hub/rotor all in one, not my preferable set up and they use old school solid rotor. My preference is lazy hub ( gal or S/S) and hat type slip on rotor. I use Gal hubs and S/S vented rotor for less maintenance. Caliper is the most important part, use only full S/S ( housing and piston). The caliper mounting bolts are S/S and I do use grease without any issues but again they are different if look closer to the pictures . S/S rotors will wear out quicker than steel because they are softer but will stop better too. Steel will last longer if they don't rust but in most cases on boat trailers you would throw them out because of heavy pits from rust. The American axles have a plate welded at the end and you buy brackets that bolt straight on to that and the calipers bolt on the bracket, I use S/S bracket as well. I use braided flexible tube so it won't corrode, still tube is better as it won't flex with 1600 PSI pressure but it will rust. I wouldn't spray rotors or pads with any lubricant because effects braking efficiency, then again thick rust on the rotor will do that and probably more. I first started using American brakes back in the 90's and will not use anything else . I wouldn't use mechanical cable operated brakes like they use in Australia on boat trailers under 2000 kg . They will work Ok but you must adjust the cable every 5 minutes. You don't see any of these in USA. Expensive to start with but much cheaper in the long run, especially if you pay someone to do the maintenance. I buy my brakes and parts in USA but these days you can buy them here. Over the years I have set up several heavy boat trailers like that. I guess each to their own. My 2 cents ....

Farmed fish.

As you can see above I have 800, back cruncher has 1100. These are American and they still use US gallons the fuel is sold in gallons as well. They will never pump the rated volume because they have to pump upwards, depends on what size tank you have and how many livies . I use the same pump for my slimey tubes with a T and switch valve. Unless I have a full tank I don't run it constantly and I don't run it when under way, the speed of the boat forces water in the tank.

They do work but not ideal, horses for courses. Deck-wash pumps are high pressure low volume and they draw much more power. 800 G/H bait pump will draw less than half the amps a 360 G/H deck wash pressure pump. It is best practice to have 2 pumps one for deck-wash and another for bait tank.

Mine is fine but it is in the bilge area.

I use this, I custom made it about 15 years ago still going strong.

You are correct if fits on the bottom of the hull and the lever you see is the seacock valve . Very common in American boats . That's the actual fitting .

That's on the boat .

I have a specific livewell pump Shurflo 800 gal, original pump 8 years old. I had the same in my old boat, about 7 years old still going strong when I sold the boat. Clamp shell pick up that forces water in the tank at low speed . I always run the pumps at home to get rid of the salt water .

I own a GW 228 Seafarer ( my second 228), she has a Yamaha 250 4.2 lt on the bracket. Great offshore boat, rides well and stable at rest due to the V-sea hull. They are heavy boats and will use more fuel than equivalent plate boat due to the extra weight. They are a big 22 footer with heaps of deck space, very well lied out with a big plumbed ( from factory) live bait tank that fills from the bottom and water exits from the top so it circulates very well. Raw water deck-wash is standard as is 40 lt freshwater tank and shower at the back , basin in the cab. Two kill tanks that drain out, all tanks are insulated, even the live bait tank. Most have a porta-poty with holding tank under and macerator. Cabin is good for two to overnight, if that's what you want. Generally fixtures and fittings are top shelf as they should on a very pricey boat. All 228's are fitted standard with trim tabs and LED indicators. They have big fuel tanks, depending on model, mine has 125 us gal (470 ltrs). Not light to tow at about 3100-3200 kg depending on gear, I tow with a 200 series LC, tows very well. If the boat you are looking at is in Brisbane she has been for sale for quite a while so you maybe able to talk them down . There is a nice one for sale in Sydney but very pricey. https://www.shortmarine.com.au/used-boats/2019-grady-white-228-seafarer They also have my old boat fitted with 250 hp Optimax . A very well maintained boat when I owned it but again very expensive . https://www.shortmarine.com.au/used-boats/grady-white-228-seafarer If you need more info, fire away. You can check them out on this US forum. Greatgrady.com

We should all write to our local member to express our concern about this. There are about 1 million fishers in NSW, that is a lot of votes and I'm sure they will take notice . a) Number of Recreational Fishers NSW had an estimated 998,501 ± 33,686 recreational fishers (Figure 1). The proportion of the NSW population that participated in recreational fishing was 17.1%. (Figure 2). Almost 24% of the NSW male population went fishing while about 10% of females fished. The participation rate in NSW country regions was twice as high as the rate observed in the main metropolitan area. Write to your local State MP and the minister for Agriculture- Adam Marshall click here to find your MP’s contact information click here to find your MP’s contact information.

Over the many years deep dropping and trying all kinds of weights, I came to the conclusion that lead is best ( mercury would be even better) for me. It's density is about 11.3 , steel about 8. I have used thick reo (32-40mm) left over from building and some sash weights , they work well but I hate the fact that they rust so you have to coat them. Years ago after trying different shapes, I realised a long and pointy sinker works best but couldn't find a mould. I bought some aluminium, joint to slabs together then drilled a whole the size needed on a lathe . I pour lead in the mould and put a S/S chain link on the top . No rust and they go down very quick. I have bought mould as well but a lot shorter and not round. This is the end result, about 250 mm long and about 32 mm diameter.

I have some left over glass mat you can have as well. If you want a good smooth finish you need to make a template formwork and you have to line it with gelcoat first, you will end up with one perfect side and a rough side. Have you thought of using 10mm marine alloy? Contact Capral, they will sell you the size you want. To give you some indication of price, I bought a piece 1200x400x12mm (5083, marine grade) for $152.00 If you want to go ally let me know as I have a contact at Capral.

http://panthermarineproducts.com/motor-lifts-trim-and-tilt/ No hydraulics, electric motor driving a worm, similar to Lenco trim tabs.

You need a lifting ring and an engine crane, I wouldn't bother renting a crane, they are cheap to buy and you will have it for future use or sell it and get most of your money back, much cheaper than renting. If you have a beam in your garage you can use it with a chain block. When you lift the engine you can lay it on the floor with some padding underneath so you don't scratch the paint. If you were in Sydney I could lent you the lifting ring, if you come to Sydney you are welcome to borrow it. In case you didn't realise the black one screws in to the flywheel and the silver hook in the black.

You don't need much power to start your 2 stroke. Actually she can be pull started if you have a a flywheel with a slot to fit the pull cord. there are plenty cheapies around, I don't know how good they are but I know Noco are good. The one bellow will start almost any car engine, even small diesels. That's what I will be buying if I was you, shop around probably get it for $150 or so. NOCO GENIUS BOOST GB40 12v Jump Starter Lithium-ion 1000AMP

If I was to put a hole on the bottom of my boat, I have two on mine from factory, I would only use a bronze seacock and a clam type scoop. I wouldn't do that in a tinny that's for sure . Do what John D has suggested that is the best ( personal opinion) for an ally hull. Fitted correct you get water in the tank while stationary or slow moving using the pump and when under way no pump required the pressure will force it in the tank.

It is illegal and not just because you don't have brakes , it is because you are overloaded just like a big percentage of boat trailers are. If you fit brakes to the trailer it is not going to make it legal because you still have a plate on it that says max 750 kgs. Just because you don't have to have brakes it doesn't mean you can have them. Don't forget everything on a 750 kg is made to have that much weight . Axles, tyres, bearings trailer frame etc.. A few years ago RMS set up near Nelsons Bay, they stopped every boat trailer and put it on the weighbridge, from memory more than half were overloaded and some over width too. Even if your brakes don't work and you are in a serious accident you could be prosecuted and insurance denied. Welster, You maybe surprised but back then you didn't need brakes on most single axle trailers if hauling vehicle tare weight was above a certain weight. I can't remember the actual number but around the 1200 kg . Now you need brakes on anything above 750 kg on at least one axle, they can be cable, most don't work because they need adjustment all the time. Anything over 2000 kg brakes on all axles, you must be able to operate the trailer brakes ( independently of the tow vehicle brakes) from the drivers seat and in the event that the trailer parts company from the car, the trailer brakes must be activated automatically and stay on for a minimum of 15 minutes. This is another issue with break-away systems most of them the batteries are not big enough to continue pumping for 15 minutes . How many inspection stations check the battery on the trailer on the annual check up? I bet not many. How many check the age on the tyres? I bet almost none. How many check bearings? Very few.

I'm with you Noelm, all it needs is some O rings replaced. The problem is these days nobody wants to repair anything, much easier for them to replace and they make more $$$ on the replacement. It is much the same with cars as well.

I assume you have a Baystar system on that boat, they are good for up to 150 hp. If so you can buy the helm from USA for around $500-600 delivered, I guess you don't want to wait for it as you can get one locally immediately. The other option is to get a seal kit for around $50-100. Last option buy the the full kit use the helm and keep the rest for future use or use the full kit, repair the the old helm and sell the old kit . Zoran, The South Australian made Hydrive is much more than $1000. It is $1349 from Whitworths . https://www.whitworths.com.au/hydrive-admiral-hydraulic-steering-outboard-kit-obkit1-merc However this is a much heavier duty than Baystar it is equivalent to Seastar and in my opinion it has a much better cylinder than the more common American Seastar. The cylinder in the Hydrive is bronze not aluminium like the Seastar. (It was in the past , not sure now). I have tilt helm Seastar in my GW but many years ago I had Hydrive in my 2250 signature.

I know you say your boat motor trailer combo are 260 kg however I think you may get a shock if you put it on the weighbridge . By the time you include all the safety gear , fishing gear and fuel I don't know how much she would weigh then. Legalities aside you say 89 Barina, if that's so, it is a Suzuki swift 1.3 lt and more than likely manual. You shouldn't have any problems towing but be careful taking off uphills and on the boat ramp your clutch may not last very long. Slightly better if auto. Front drives are not better than rear drives at the boat ramp because when you take off uphill the weight shifts to the rear.

Sure the V6 will use more per RPM and the V8 more again but the are both going to be making more HP at the given RPM compared to the 3.0 lt four banger. Nothing for nothing you have the horses you need to feed then. My comment was that it doesn't make any difference how many sparks you have per revolution as to how much fuel you will burn per rev. It has more to do with how much power it makes and how much of that power you use at any time. Fewer moving parts also not much to do with fuel use. The design of the engine especially cyl head design has. As an example take an old say 70's car engine and compare it with a 2020's engine of the same capacity . The newer engine will use a lot less fuel to do the same work like pushing whatever weight at same speed and the same distance . Of course nothing is exactly the same that' is why it is very difficult to compare two engines of similar age and design. A high compression engine will be more fuel efficient than one with lower compression all else the same . This is the reason now all diesels and most petrol engines are turbo .

Are you comparing DTS engines or cable? I know you can get a 200 merc cable for under $25k fitted. If you are not happy with the 150 merc performance don't get it because you maybe sorry . If it is not up to your expectations you will regret it. . I don't know the boat you are buying, never been on one so I can't comment. I never owned a Honda outboard ( a few cars yes) but I have owned Mercs, Yams, Johnson and the so called anode Suzuki ( I believe they are a lot better now). My fist preference would be Merc followed by Yamaha. You don't want extra weight on the transom , that's for sure. I don't know how strong the transom on the parker is but as it is only rated at max 200 HP I wouldn't want to test it on both HP and weight. Of course it should be fine as it is rated for 200hp and no weight limit and it is not made in China. Look at it this way, you are Going to spend $90 k on a boat $3 or $4 k extra is only a very small percentage of the outlay. Of course it is your money , you are the only one that can decide. I hope it works for you whatever you decide to go with.