wrxhoon1

Robert st Balmain , caravans and boats always parked there.

Honda 175 is the same block as 250 (3.6 lt) and they are heavy at around 280 kg. I know a guy in Fla USA repowered his GW 226 with a 250 hp Honda 3 years ago and he is very happy with it and he gets better economy than his 225 Yamaha . The 250 Honda is V-tec, the 175 is not , both are 24 valve single cam Definitely Honda wouldn't be my choice on weight alone, my preference would be Merc 200 DTS. If you tested the boat with 150 Merc and you are happy with the performance why not go with that? Do you know what prop was on the test boat? Enertia? Don't worry about gear ratios you can adjust that with the prop pitch. If it is a heavy boat with low power you will need a bigger diameter lower pitch prop. Props are guesswork unless you know another owner with the same boat. The other thing about Mercs that I have noticed over my many years of various boat/engine combos, they are the best for corrosion ( personal opinion) and that's what will kill your engine before normal wear ( unless used commercially). One more on the Mercs you have a choice of many different props and you only need to use one hub kit. My boat has a 250 Yam ( GW fits them on so no choice), I got a torque flow kit to suit Merc props. 1000 kg on the top of dry weight is about right especially if you buy a Honda, by the time you fill the tank ( i don't know how much she holds, I know mine is 125 gals) , batteries safety gear fishing gear it adds up quickly . Fuel efficiency, not much difference whatever engine you go with everything else equal, weight and deep V will use more fuel and on and off throttle. Engine height is another, trim, big transducer more drag, bottom paint again more drag. All boats use a lot of fuel if you compare them with cars . I can use 160-180 lts on a 12 hour day non stop. Whatever your choice make sure you have a dealer of the brand you buy close to you for servicing. Zoran , your theory on the number of sparks between the Honda and the 4 cyl Merc doesn't work in practice because the Honda will inject less fuel in one cyl mainly due to the smaller capacity . Number of cyl will work in the 4 cyl Mercs favour when it comes to maintenance. The other thing V6 engines are not the best design for smoothness but then again straight 4 cyl aren't either. Straight 6's are the best and V8's are good too. I don't think you care much about smoothness on a boat like you would on a car.

150 Merc is a simple engine with one camshaft and 2 valves per cylinder, has been around a few years now and proven to be reliable . Others are more modern engines with 2 cams and 4 valves per cylinder. It depends on what you want on a boat as to the HP. If it was me I would opt for a 200 HP V6 merc, same weight as the 175 and not much heavier than the 3.0 lt 150 Merc. You will pay a bit more but you are never going to be sorry you got max HP . If you got the 150 you may, then again it may suit your application. I don't know about the 150 but the 200 you can get it with DTS. I don't know who owns Parker now or where they are made but for a big (heavy?) boat the max rated HP is fairly low .

We have a free trade agreement with New Zealand and many other countries now, so no import duty. Of course 10% GST is payable on all costs including land transport in NZ, any export costs and shipping cost. If you are importing trailer you have to apply for import approval for the trailer. When the trailer gets here you have to comply it. As for the boat you need to verify the boat HIN in order to register it. When the combo arrivers AQIS will inspect it and more that likely will be sent for a wash, costs that you will have to meet. Taurus logistics will be able to quote on shipping . I don't know if car carriers dock in Cairns from NZ, I'm sure you can ship from Auckland to Brisbane. Having imported several boats and cars over the years ( not from NZ, Japan and USA) my advice to you : Don't bother, not worth the effort for a low value boat. At least do all your sums before you decide and make sure you include the port charges in Australia .

They did, the Beaver and the Otter both seized production in the 60's i think. They are still running in the West coast of Canada and Alaska .

I don't know if you have cable or hydraulic brakes but by the look of your pads they weren't doing much stopping. If you want the brakes to work change the rotors to stainless steel, S/S calipers and S/S backing plates on the pads. Not cheap but way cheaper in the long run. The rotors don't rust so they don't rip your pads off. I first used S/S brakes around early to mid 90's , never looked back, every trailer I get I install all S/S .

She won't do it because she won't have anyone to fillet the fish!

I use it when I'm up there, like most people do. $2 mil should fix it as they are going to lift the ramp that should reduce the amount of sand you get on low tide plus it will be a lot steeper, won't need to put the tow tug in the drink. I wish they included a floating pontoon, on low tide that jetty is way too high .

This should fix the sand issue but nothing to address the westerly wind. No mention of a much needed pontoon either . https://www.portstephensexaminer.com.au/story/6861631/2m-for-new-longer-boat-ramp/

Most boat manufacturers supply the hull to the dealers and they fit them out, most will include steering but not much else. Some will supply a complete boat turn key ready as they either own or have contracts with engine manufacturers. I don't have a problem with that as long as the fitting dealer is reputable . You get to choose the engine manufacturer. You haven't specified if you are trailering or wet berth. If you intend to trailer you have to exclude a few makes unless you want to get involved with wide loads ( very restrictive) or do what a lot of people do, tow illegally. I'm just point out stuff for your consideration before you drop $$$$. In the end you are the only one that can decide on a boat that suits your needs. If you are going to buy a new boat from a little known manufacturer, buy from a dealer close to you ( same city) and preferably one that has been going for a long time and will be there to honor any warranty issues.

I don't know how well they are built or how they handle but generally speaking I'm not a fan of boats made in China ( personal opinion) but again check them out , they may suit you.

The last 2 the year . If you have the HIN you can find the answers to your questions.

Odd number pitch is more common than even for some reason. If you are looking to buy new you can get anything you want. It is up to you if you want to buy ally prop, I wouldn't but I have a big V6 engine. The reason your mechanic suggested one" pitch bigger for ally is because ally tends to distort under load, S/S is much stronger. That's not to say ally won't do the job but S/S will do it better. Don't forget it is a bit of guesswork on the pitch that will suit your application best. A lot will depend on boat load and where the boat is used . Ideally you want a prop that will allow the motor to spin within the manufacturers recommended rev range when the boat has normal load when the engine is trimmed up just before ventilation starts. I prefer my engine to be close to the top specified rev range but at least midway . If you know someone with the same boat as you have check what prop they have and what RPM they get at WOT I recommend Enertia over Vengeance, a better all around prop in my opinion. Any S/S will perform better than ally. https://www.mercurymarine.com/en-gb/au/propellers/sport-series/vengeance/ https://www.mercurymarine.com/en-gb/au/propellers/comp-series/enertia/

Pigs may fly too. If that was true nobody in marine environment would use S/S.

Very simple if you think mild steel is more suitable on your application, go ahead and use it. In my application I find marine grade S/S more suitable than anything else for all my fasteners on boat and trailer. I think you will agree ( maybe not) that the fact that all reputable boat manufactures use S/S, at much greater expense to mild/gal steel, know it is much more suitable . So are you saying you object boat manufacturers using S/S cleats or anything else that you may tie the anchor rode on? What about the bow hook that you hook the winch hook on? Should that not be S/S, you put a lot more load on that when pulling a 3 t boat. In all my boating life I NEVER had to change one due to failure by either corrosion or breakage by the way the backing plate and nuts are S/S as well . All the cleats on my boat are S/S and I do sometimes tie the anchor on them. My Lewmar windlass is S/S and guess what the fasteners are S/S as well, I'm confidant they won't fail. Don't you think Grady White would use Gal or mild steel if they thought it would be more suitable and save $$$? The way you are raving on about, anyone would think we are anchoring a 200,000 t ship. The way I look it at is anything that I use will not fail before the anchor drags on the sand or the rock pick on the reef, the prongs will straighten long before anything else gives way.

Kingfishbig, Are you still going on about NOT using marine grade 316 S/S fittings and fasteners on boats used in saltwater? Are you trying to convince everyone on here that 316 S/S will corrode before mild or gal steel will? Of course anyone with boating experience is not going to take any notice. Any reputable boat manufacturer uses 316 marine grade S/S . I don't know what kind of boat you have, where you use it and what kind of fittings she has. Are your rod holders fastened with mild steel bolts? Do you have mild steel bolts holding your engine on the transom? I owned more boats than I can remember and all F/G , all of them had S/S fittings. My current one is made by Grady White, every fastener is 316 marine grade S/S, every through hull fittings above water line are S/S and bronze bellow water line. Maybe you should contact G/W and tell them they are using the wrong fasteners and fittings, tell them and every other reputable manufacturer they should't be using S/S because they will corrode quicker than mild/gal steel. I'll keep on using 316 marine grade S/S on my boats and trailers, even brake rotors and calipers at about 3 times the price but miles cheaper in the long run. I even use S/S props, never had one corrode or snap, I wonder how long a mild/gal steel one will last. We'll never know I don't think you can buy them, maybe I'm wrong, maybe you can. Your choice to use whatever you like but I know what will last longer with less maintenance and that is 316 S/S, that's for sure, as long as it is not made in China.

Are you sure you installed the impeller correct? Looking at the blades one of them ( the one at 7 o'clock in the pic) looks like is bent the wrong way. When you put the new one in make sure you bent them the opposite to the shaft rotation . You can check at home if she overheats, all you do is run it in a drum, saves launching just to check overheating.

Are you saying that marine grade S/S will corrode before mild or gal steel will? Visual signs of corrosion? How hard is it to see the brown rust? You can use whatever you like on your boat, if you think mild steel is the go, your choice. If you need strength you should use high tensile fasteners. I know what to use on mine, I haven't had a marine grade S/S fastener fail due to corrosion in all my boating life, i don't think it happen now as I'm never going to use Chinese S/S, now I can guarantee that will rust in no time. Maybe that is what you are referring ? I even use S/S acorn wheel nuts on my boat trailer in order to protect my wheel studs. I use to use chrome acorn nuts but I had to change them every few years due to rust. Do you think they are going to fail due to corrosion or because they don't have the strength that mild steel has? Shackles will come undone regardless if they are S/S, gal or mild steel if you don't check them to make sure they are tight. Yes anchor is a safety item hence the reason you must have one on a boat, I have 2 and most fishos would have 2 as well. Zoran , I don't think we are the only ones using marine grade S/S on our boats, every boat I have ever been on uses S/S fixtures and fittings. Some of the super luxury craft ($100 million plus) even use S/S anchors, I would too, only the cost stops me. I would use S/S chain as well if it wasn't as pricey. I'm definitely not concerned it will break, the rope will break long before the chain.

I use marine grade stainless steel fasteners on my boat and trailer . Are they stronger than mild or high tensile steel? No they are not but I can use heavier gauge to get the same strength if I wish. I even use S/S D-shackles because they will outlast gal and they will not seize, I even use a snap hook on my reef anchor, the prongs will bend long before the 12 mm snap will, even the 14mm rope will break before the snap breaks. How much load do you think you can put on the rope before the bow of a small tiny will go under? No where near enough to break a S/S D shackle, snap hook or quick link. I hate rusting steel on my boat it stains everything. I don't use S/S chain due to cost but I replace the gal as soon as I see rust marks on it, not because it will break, it won't, rust marks on my clean gelcoat look crap. My trailer has all 316 S/S bolts and U bolts, fastened with duralac, these days you can't even find gal bolts or U bolts the so called zink plated start rusting the day after you dunk it in salt. I even use S/S brakes, calipers, rotors, brackets and backing plates on the pads. I started using S/S brakes in the early to mid 90's. Brakes always work never an issue but of course rotors are softer and will wear out quicker that steel but they stop when I want them too. I remember the bad old days of all steel rotors they would only last a couple years or so before pitting and then they rip the pads, constant maintenance. I'm very happy using S/S as much as possible, less maintenance, much longer life and even cheaper over the long run. Each to their own, what suits me may not suit others, I go on my many years of boating experience not what someone with self interest will try to sell me.

It is very simple after you claim your rebate it ends up costing you same as a car. Prior to this rebate it would cost you same as a B-double. As for M5 you still get the full rebate minus GST if you travel Southwest of King Georges rd, nothing changes there . The new M8 that runs from King Georges rd to St Peters is a toll rd for everyone and same goes for M5 east . M5 east was originally designed to be a toll rd, that's the main reason it was only 2 lanes each way however due to the fact that has a couple swinging state seats Bob Car ( Premier at the time) made if free for all. Depending on where you live in Sydney as to what tolls you pay, not fair that some pay tolls to use motorways and others don't. ( personal opinion).

18" or 19" pitch depending on the prop you choose . Vengeance is a very basic prop . If you go 3 blade Enertia is best. Vensura in you go 4 blade . It is trial and error with props. If you close to Ermington boat ramp I have 17" 18" and 19" Enertia and 19" Vensura. Happy for you to try either of them and then you can decide what suits you best. You need to use your own hub kit. I only have hub kits for V6. Not interested in selling 17" or 18" Enertia but I may consider selling 19" Vensura .

That was when they widened the ramp, I remember when it was just gravel, I used the Meadowbank ramp then. It doesn't exist now, river cat berths there. Back in the day with carby 2 smokes and boats with small tanks I used Rose Bay when fishing wide to conserve fuel. I haven't had that issue for many years now, engines use a lot less fuel and fishing boats as a rule have big tanks. I think you will find the coupling lock you use is not recommended to be locked while your driving, hence the H/patrol warning to you. I can't find anything on the AVR rules to say that the trailer can't be locked on the hitch when driven. A lot the time cops don't know the rules they are enforcing. A quick example I was reversing not wearing a seat belt and the cop wanted to give me a ticket, he didn't know you don't have to wear one when reversing. Not saying that you should or shouldn't use the lock, it is up to you what you decide to do, I will continue to use mine. For the record I'm not using one of those , my coupling has a built in lock but I use a wheel clamp as well. I don't use locks on the chains, no point my chains are bolted on not welded. In any case you only slow the thief down you can't stop it. A cheap battery grinder will cut anything, cameras are a better deterrent these days, much better than alarms. The problem is when they steal the trailer, what do you do with the boat? At the end of the day the insurance will pay . You can also put a tracker on the trailer and you know where the trailer is but you still have the boat in the water.

You didn't say if you want to trailer her or more her. If you want to trailer the boat you are limited to around the 7 mt mark unless you use a proper truck to tow. If you want to keep her in the water you may need to go to a minimum of 25' to do what you want. A 7mt ( or there abouts ) will do all you want besides the overnighting for 4, if you can somehow compromise on that ( depending on kids age) that's what I will be looking at , plenty to choose from, especially used to suit your budget, you are more limited on new. As you are going to use the boat 70% for fishing , I wouldn't go for anything like Bayliner, Searay etc. I will be looking for a cabin and or walkaround. I have a 22' Grady White Seafarer 228, fantastic boat but the cab wouldn't be big enough for 4 and very expensive, plenty of deck space though. Boats are always a compromise, it depends on what you want to compromise on. If you are going to trailer make sure you buy a boat that is under 2.5 mtrs wide, some dealers will tell you the boat is 2.5 mtrs even if they are 2.59, check it on the manufacturers website. Most 21' plus American boats are 2.59 due to their road limits there . Weight is another thing when you get to 7 mtrs, try to keep under 3.5T gross, if in doubt put her on a weigh bridge before you buy. If you plan to fish a long way offshore fuel rapacity is another thing to consider. Again don't rely on the dealers or manufacturers fuel use as it is under calm water, light load and ideal conditions, you don't want to carry jerry cans on board. If you like alloy boats , they are a little cheaper ( as a rule) than glass and a little lighter, smaller engines and less fuel. If you are happy to keep her in the water you have a lot more options, 28' is probably ideal but you will be looking at a much older boat and mostly inboards. Good luck on your search, interesting to know what you end up with.

Zoran , The boat ramp is in Ryde council not Parramatta. You will find part of Melrose park ( it is Melrose Park not Ermington) is Parramatta council and part Ryde council. The boundary is Wharf rd. Next time you are there have a look at the high poles in the carpark , you will see the cams, I don't know how much of the carpark they cover. I make sure I park where I think they cover but can't be 100% sure . In any case I used this ramp for the last 30 years never had a problem. I use a wheel clamp and a coupling lock, same when parked at home or when traveling away and parked. Maybe I should put 2 locks on the safety chains as well, it wouldn't hurt. The only extra time is the wheel clamp, coupling lock and chain locks can stay on from the time I hitch until back home and parked. My LC doesn't have a late model dash cam, as it is now 7 years old I don't intend of upgrading the cam, hopefully the new model soon to be released will have same as my other car. It utilises the cars cameras and it records if anyone hits the car even when parked. You have an app on the phone that will saw you the car at anytime, great feature and it shows every angle, front rear and sides, dash cams normally only give you front and back.