Chaohuang

What an epic trip that got you hooked on fishing, both versions crack me up, good stuff guys, thanks for sharing!

Wow, that's a whopper!

Congrats on your first fish on SP!

Hahaha, that cracked me up, thanks for sharing!

Oh nice! Yum!

I'd have to say, the blokes at the club really took you for a ride there, lol. Sorry mate, no gemmie, it's a barracouta. If you find jigging in 100 meters hard work, you can consider switching to slow jigging, it is much less energy demanding. A skinny dude like me can jig browns mountain for 5 hours straight. The difference is that big! Cheers, Chao

That's a solid one hour session, well done!

Wow, that's a whopper whiting, great job!

Hi Trung, Yes I do a fair bit of shore jigging as well, there is also a new technique called "shore slow jigging", I think this is the one you are referring to. They are similar, one is done horizontally and the other vertically. Some techniques vary in accordance with this difference but the principles are the same. Chao

Recently, some fishos have been asking me what kind of rod should they get if they want to start slow jigging? I hope to use my limited experience and try to answer. I’ll start by briefly sharing with you my journey of slow jigging. It all started with me using a light jigging rod to try to slow jig from an anchored boat a few years ago. After doing a lot of reading, failures and frustration, I am now able to confidently choose different rods, different slow jigging methods and different jigs to suit a particular situation. I could not have done it if it not for the help of the real slow jigging masters. Simply put, a good slow jigging rod allows for the jig to reach its full potential while making it easy for the angler to jig. So to do this, what kind of characteristics must a rod have? Needless to say, a heavy rod will only increase your burden, so the lighter the better. Elasticity is particularly important because only a highly resilient rod can smoothly and to a higher extant absorb the energy from a jerk and turn that into the force that bounces the. A rod that is hard and not elastic increases the initial force required for a jerk and is very tiring to use, while a soft rod that is not elastic is like a noodle, it will not fully absorb a jerk and is harder to give the jig enough force to actually bounce it. The decisive factor in elasticity is the material. In general, the higher the proportion of carbon, the better the elasticity, but these rods break easily break easily when used improperly, while fiberglass material is generally low in elasticity but does not break easily. Therefore, the rod that does not break is not always the better one! As for the length of the rod, long rods are suitable for low frequency jerking and wide actions as in long fall, while the shorter rods are suitable for high-pitch, of course, there are exceptions, such as in deep sea fishing we use a short rod but the frequency of the jerks is relatively low. Many fishos ask, what rod strength should I consider? This point should be highlighted: in slow jigging, the rod is used to manipulate the jig, rather than for pumping a fish! Therefore, rod selection is based on the what jig you will be using rather than the size of fish you will be fishing. Finally I will ramble a bit on how to fight a fish. As mentioned above, slow jigging rods are not designed for pumping, but does this mean that we have to keep the rod down at all times? No! Some people may not agree, but I think fishos should have their own independent thinking and not succumb to dogmatism. The point-down method and lift and crank method are both usable, with the point-down method being practical in more situations. To deal with small fish, their strength is not enough to take line but their mouths are delicate. In this case, it is good to use the point-down method and smoothly wind it up to the surface. For medium-sized fish, the fish may make you a little line, but probably won’t reef you, both methods are good in this situation. A bent rod can buffer headshakes very well, but you have to be very well aware of the capabilities of your rod, as soon as the fish exceeds this limit, immediate drop the rod back down into the point-down style (I recently uploaded a video that shows this). To deal with a true monster, there is a good chance you will get reefed and the first few minutes are crucial. In this case, the rod should be pointing down at all times, your thumb should be on your reel to provide additional drag and you should be ready to take is line whenever there is a chance. Hope this can be of some help and please do correct me if I am wrong about something. If you guys are interested and find this helpful, I will be writing up some more in the future. For fishos that do not know what slow jigging is, here is a very good reference thanks to master Totos san: http://www.anglers-secrets.com/

Recently, some fishos have been asking me what kind of rod should they get if they want to start slow jigging? I hope to use my limited experience and try to answer. I’ll start by briefly sharing with you my journey of slow jigging. It all started with me using a light jigging rod to try to slow jig from an anchored boat a few years ago. After doing a lot of reading, failures and frustration, I am now able to confidently choose different rods, different slow jigging methods and different jigs to suit a particular situation. I could not have done it if it not for the help of the real slow jigging masters. Simply put, a good slow jigging rod allows for the jig to reach its full potential while making it easy for the angler to jig. So to do this, what kind of characteristics must a rod have? Needless to say, a heavy rod will only increase your burden, so the lighter the better. Elasticity is particularly important because only a highly resilient rod can smoothly and to a higher extant absorb the energy from a jerk and turn that into the force that bounces the. A rod that is hard and not elastic increases the initial force required for a jerk and is very tiring to use, while a soft rod that is not elastic is like a noodle, it will not fully absorb a jerk and is harder to give the jig enough force to actually bounce it. The decisive factor in elasticity is the material. In general, the higher the proportion of carbon, the better the elasticity, but these rods break easily break easily when used improperly, while fiberglass material is generally low in elasticity but does not break easily. Therefore, the rod that does not break is not always the better one! As for the length of the rod, long rods are suitable for low frequency jerking and wide actions as in long fall, while the shorter rods are suitable for high-pitch, of course, there are exceptions, such as in deep sea fishing we use a short rod but the frequency of the jerks is relatively low. Many fishos ask, what rod strength should I consider? This point should be highlighted: in slow jigging, the rod is used to manipulate the jig, rather than for pumping a fish! Therefore, rod selection is based on the what jig you will be using rather than the size of fish you will be fishing. Finally I will ramble a bit on how to fight a fish. As mentioned above, slow jigging rods are not designed for pumping, but does this mean that we have to keep the rod down at all times? No! Some people may not agree, but I think fishos should have their own independent thinking and not succumb to dogmatism. The point-down method and lift and crank method are both usable, with the point-down method being practical in more situations. To deal with small fish, their strength is not enough to take line but their mouths are delicate. In this case, it is good to use the point-down method and smoothly wind it up to the surface. For medium-sized fish, the fish may make you a little line, but probably won’t reef you, both methods are good in this situation. A bent rod can buffer headshakes very well, but you have to be very well aware of the capabilities of your rod, as soon as the fish exceeds this limit, immediate drop the rod back down into the point-down style (I recently uploaded a video that shows this). To deal with a true monster, there is a good chance you will get reefed and the first few minutes are crucial. In this case, the rod should be pointing down at all times, your thumb should be on your reel to provide additional drag and you should be ready to take is line whenever there is a chance. Hope this can be of some help and please do correct me if I am wrong about something. If you guys are interested and find this helpful, I will be writing up some more in the future. For fishos that do not know what slow jigging is, here is a very good reference thanks to master Totos san: http://www.anglers-secrets.com/

Nice lizard mate!

Haha, that is awesome, talk with the guys from the store and see if they also have some advice to offer, good luck!

Rod: Ocea jigger infinity B634 Reel: Ocea conquest 300HG Line: Ocea braid PE2.5 Jig: 250g slow jig

Thanks, my pleasure! Thanks Big Neil, the footage was taken on a Gopro and was edited using Windows Movie Maker.

This is an instructional video I made on how to fight a fish using the lift and crank style in slow jigging.

Beautiful almaco jack!

Thanks for the report, will only get better and better as the water warms up.

Awesome session and great footage, wonder what that fish was, the one that got you caught in the rocks...

Decent bag of fish, yum yum!

Another successful morning with slow jigs.

Hi Zacnoel, My rods are mostly PE3 max. But generally speaking, you shouldn't choose a slow jigging rod according to PE number, but according to the weight of your jig. Cheers, Chao H.

Hi, Great offer! Anything involving jigging (even at browns mountain), I am your guy. Will shoot you a PM later. Chao

If you are fishing close to the heads, it should not be any deeper than around 30 meters, 70g jigs will be more than enough. Good luck!