cooky6983
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Posts posted by cooky6983
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4 hours ago, frankS said:
Morgan. I am having a bit of trouble adding photos to my emails to send.
Maybe best IF I send them via PM here, keep your eye on your PM 's .
Frank
Second thoughts, I will start another post with photos and description of my boat catch .
I will place it in the boating section.
Frank
Will do mate. Thanks
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On 8/27/2021 at 7:51 AM, frankS said:
Have done so many times and vise versa.
Over the years I have converted many boat trailers to suit the boat that is sitting on it.
There is no right way or wrong way to have a trailer set up, as in bunks/skids or wobble rollers or any other kind of set up.
It's fitting the boat to the trailer so that it sits comfortable and is usable and easy to launch and retrieve the boat.
While it's true that in general glass boats have wobble rollers and alloy boats have skids, there is no set rules for this, most ski hulls just have carpeted wooden planks for the boat to sit on and the boat gets floated off the trailer.
Send me some photos of your boat and trailer and I can advise you of the best way to go about setting your unit up correctly.
Email me at fastrailers@optusnet.com.au with photos.
Frank
Hey Frank. Sent you a couple of emails mate
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On 6/18/2020 at 4:02 PM, anthman said:
I was thinking wouldnt it ve great if we had a special fishraider sticker on the side of the boat and that way you can spot a member straight away, what do you reckon?
Though, I can already spot @DerekD's hobie from a mile away!
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Thanks anthman. I will start a list here of those that want a sticker
@anthman RED given to jeffb5.8
@Berleyguts given to jeffb5.8 - pick up from Scratchie Baz
@big Neil Red
@jeffb5.8 BLUE given
@motiondave RED given to jeffb5.8
@61 crusher blue
@Scratchie a selection of red, blue and white given to jeffb5.8 (for you, Baz, tobycb)
@Joeyd blue
@kingie chaser blue and red
@tobycb BLUE given to jeffb5.8 pick up from Scratchie
@Busy-livin red
@dirvin21blue
@saadred
@Azza_Fishing red
@pegz blue
@devon007 blue
Blue
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5 hours ago, dunc333 said:
the guys had one on all for adventures show not long ago i think they said it was a pain in the backside cant remember though ,check it out
Thanks mate. I'll do that now.
Cheers
Cooky
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G’day Raiders,
Quick one about fuel bladders.
My restoration has revealed that the old fibreglass fuel tank needs to go.
Has anyone had any experience (good, bad or otherwise) with fuel bladders ?
Thanks all
Cooky
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16 hours ago, JonD said:
Did my last boat trailer and the one I have now. Also the commercial abalone boats I often drive have easy on off skids too. So quick and simple.
This was for my 543rf signature (now sold). The boat had a wide planing plank widening towards the back, hence the trailer flat sections. The trailer was all rollered when I fish bought it.
Looks good Jon. Thanks for that. Certainly good for thought. Like the way it’s set up
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Morning Raiders,
Wanting to know if anyone has gone to the lengths of going from trailer rollers to bunks to make self launch easier ?
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Hi Raiders,
following on from recent posts re my boat restoration project, I’m hoping someone can help me with this. The photos show the “current” rack and pinion steering assembly ( I’m pretty sure that t is ), but it’s old and some parts are missing. I’d really like to know what it can be replaced with, such as just a generic rack and pinion kit with the right length cable or perhaps hydraulic. On my old outboard the cable steering always wanted to pull to the right no matter how much I adjusted it and I did hear that those style steering systems did that anyway but I want to avoid that on the new boat (20’ inboard). I hope this makes sense. Any advice would be really appreciated.
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14 hours ago, dunc333 said:
what sought of engine is it cooky??
Mercruiser - Chevy 304 maybe ?
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That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for that
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Yeah fair enough too. Thought I'd give it a shot. I'll add pics of the whole boat after I get it back from the engine assessment and see what raiders say. Thanks for replying mate
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G’day all,
This might be a really pointless question so I’ll apologise up front.
Doing the resto on my Pride Bahia Mar 20 and came across this plate on the engine cowling. Is this just something the owner did for himself (I can’t locate him or I’d ask him) or is it something more well known as some sort of I.D. plate.
Thanks all.
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Where abouts were you mate?
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On 12/5/2019 at 7:55 AM, motiondave said:
the HIN plates tell nothing usually of the make of the boat, especially if its older. Ive got registered boats, even my tinny was classed as an aluminuim runabout, I now have a Pongrass surfmaster, and rego papers and HIN specify it as open runabout.
Thanks mate. Yeah definitely nothing on the HIN plates. Thanks for the reply
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On 12/3/2019 at 11:51 AM, fishingrod said:
Hi Cooky.
Small world, I think we met about a year ago a fair way up the Hawkesbury, when you needed to get back to Berowra Waters.
Factory fitted HIN’s (containing the manufacturer’s code within the HIN) only started appearing from about the mid to late 90’s.
cheers, Rod
Now I'm just embarrassed :)
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9 hours ago, fishingrod said:
Hi mate
Thats almost certainly a Savage Astra. Probably from the late 70’s to early 80’s era.
Mate I think you are right. Brilliant and thank you. There’s nothing on the HIN plate and having now done a google search in your suggestion I’d say you’re right. Good on you mate.
Cooky
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Hey raiders,
I’ve had my little boat for a bit and until now have never really worried about what sort of boat it is. I’ve had a couple of mates ask me and I’ve drawn a blank so I’m hoping that somebody of you experts out there can help me. I only have a couple of pics of it sorry. There are no markings on it anywhere. Hoping you can help. Thanks
Cooky
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On 5/20/2019 at 5:30 PM, Scratchie said:
G'day raiders,
As many of you are aware one of my favourite forms of fishing is chasing snapper on soft plastics. This type of fishing is a very active way to target a species and can be very rewarding. The beauty of this angling is obviously acquiring the target of snapper but with very little by-catch and of course the absence of bait and associated mess that comes with it. Whilst this art of angling has taken me many years to become consistent with catching the said species, hopefully I can explain enough to anyone that is interested getting started.
Setup:
Many people have differing views on what rod and reel to use, but this is the set up that works for me.
Rod: 7ft min 4-7kg
Reel: 4000 sized standard or even 5000 in areas known for big snapper
Braid and Leader: 20lb braid and 20lb flurocarbon leader or 30lb flurocarbon leader depending on terrain.
Jighead: This will depend on the depths and areas you fish, the currents, the structure and terrain. But a quick breakdown for jig size, this is what I use:
1/4 5/0: 6-20 meters of water
3/8 5/0: 20-35 meters of water
NOTES: These pairings of rod, reel and braid do not have to be the top of the range or the most expensive set up you can find to achieve results. In fact, I have caught 80cm models on the cheapest shimano combo you can get. The most important thing about your setup is the braid and leader you use. After all, this is what is connecting you to the fish. Without bias or preference I use either Ocea or Power Pro braid and Black Magic leader. Why??? because this works for me and after many different trials, I've found I don't lose as many fish.
What soft plastic do I use?
This is often a difficult one and many people have differing opinions because it is something they have caught fish on in the past or something they may have been recommended by a mate or a tackle store . It is also a critical component in reaching your target and can mean the difference in success and not so successful. The reason I don't say failure is because if your out there having a go, your not failing, your learning.
From my experience, the color of soft plastics change with the seasons. During the winter months, the bait that is present determines the colors that I use. Once you start to see cuttlefish husks in the water in numbers it is time to start using whiter and lighter colors. During the summer months with the abundance of bait fish such as gars, yakka and slimies, I generally go for the more nature tones.
As a rule, I always start out using a 7 inch soft plastic until the sun appears high in the sky and then drop this down to a 5 inch.
Why??
As the saying goes, you can catch a big fish on a small hook but can't catch a small fish on a big hook. The same goes for soft plastics. The bigger fish are usually dominant in the early morning and late arvo's but remember your target is snapper and can be caught anytime of the day!
Some of my favourite types of plastics, once again without bias,
Z-man: coconut ice, pilchard, pearl
Gulp: yakka, camo pearl, garlicker
Knots and Drag settings:
I use an improved Albright (12 turns up 6 down and 3 through the loop) and my leader length is the tip of the rod until the first guide closest to the reel.
The reason for the knot, it’s easy to tie, I can do it well and I’ve never had an issue with losing fish to it. I can also recommend the PR or FG but they take some practise.
Leader: I’ve been working on this length for some time now and have settled with this summation as it’s not too long or too short and gets results! The beauty of this length is that you can retrieve your lure until 6 inches of the knot, lift and cast again without it passing through the guides! And because your knot doesn’t pass through the guides your cast is longer!
As for drag settings, I have not measured this in kilos or poundage but a very firm tight drag is required for this method of fishing. This is because you need to turn the snappers head ASAP and control the fight. Once you have achieved this, DO NOT touch your drag. You have already set the tone for the battle so play it out.
What area do I look to target snapper?
This is a very simple response, structure, structure and structure. Snapper are prolific on the east coast of NSW and you are able to fish for them year round. Whilst they are more commonly a winter target, some of my better catches have been around the spring and autumn months.
The structure that I look for is a good reef system that is surrounded by a weedy or sandy bottom. When this reef/structure has a predominant drop in it's face or is the only pinnacle structure in the area, then you'll find snapper.
The presence of bait is also another major factor. You hear the saying "find the bait, find the fish". This is the absolute truth when fishing for snapper. Snapper are an opportunistic species and will often prey on the reminence of schools of bait being hammered by other pelagics. They can also be a very dominant species. So, your sft plastic wafting down the water column is a perfect meal once it's travelled through either the bait school above or the surrounding school they are following.
Once again, refer to the depths that you are targeting this species.
When you have your intended area:
Drifting is the only real way to target snapper whilst using soft plastics. The ideal way to approach your intended target is to pull up 200m or so from it and record your drift. Your drift is the most important part of achieving your goal of catching a snapper on sps. Once you have indentified your drift and intened area. Start your drift approximately 50m before it and begin to cast ahead of the boat as far as you can.
Now, this is another very key component to this type of fishing. Long casts and allow the soft plastic to WAFT down the water column. By this I mean you don't need to impart very little action into the lure. All you need to do is maintain contact with the jig by slowly winding in the slack line so you don't have a spaghetti affect on the line. This is so you can feel any touch that you might have. Once you feel that you have reached the bottom of the ocean, lift the rod and perform big long loops back towards the boat. This is because snapper inhibit all parts of the water column and will nearly always take the sp on the drop. Don't be surprised if you get a hit in the first 3m as that's where the big ones are generally stalking. Once you have cast and played out your sp and its nearing the boat, wind up fast and repeated the process. why??? This is because I have had many of by-catch including kings, bonito, sampsonfish etc following the lure and all they need is some action. Not only that, if you cast again quicker, your back in the game.
The second part to drifting which is paramount...….NEVER DRIVE OVER YOUR DRIFT!!!
Snapper spook very easy and once you have driven over the area, you will very rarely catch something on that same drift. Instead, complete your drift, take a big circle around the area you are working and approach your next intended drift 20-30m away from your last one. This will allow you to work a small or productive area for some time.
The other thing to mention is when you do get a bite!
As soon as you feel a take on your line, strike for the fish and strike hard. Sometimes fishing with soft plastics you may have to try and set the hook hard up to 3 times! Often the fish may pick up the lure and swim towards you! At this stage, you need to wind and strike hard. They have solid mouths and take a fair bit to set the hook. Although, the bigger fish will generally hook themselves and take you for a ride! Just always maintain a bend in the rod and take your time. There is no rush to success!
Overview:
Choose the right setup, indentify your target area, big long casts, allow the sp to waft, work it back to the boat! Repeat the process!!!
And as my motto goes "JUST KEEP CASTING" Now that is the key to snapper fishing with soft plastics.
Cheers scratchie!!!
Great artcile mate.
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On 5/14/2019 at 4:38 PM, Ah Me Ting said:
@cooky6983 How'd you go fixing the problem?
All good mate. I just posted the reply. Turns out that I had an earth lead running from the ignition / throttle assembly to the bus bar at the back near the battery and then nothing after that. I called a leccy in and he put a new earth lead in for me and now all works.
Thanks for all your feedback
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Thanks for all your valuable feedback. I really appreciate it. Yes I agree it was a mess and has since been cleaned up
The problem turned out to be a missing earth lead from the bus at the back of the boat that went to the battery if that makes sense. I had an earth wire running from the throttle / ignition assembly to a bus bar and then nothing after that. All good now.
Thanks again
Cooky
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Hey Ah Me,
Well, I've had a few goes at it and so far what I've got is this. Main cables coming from the battery being Red and Black and wired to the bus bars. As I mentioned, everything from the bus bars on work with no problem except when the key is turned.
What I then found is that a cable that is wired to the throttle assembly, when disconnected (as in the photo's) I lose electrics again. I've finally given in and have someone coming to look at it next week, but I'd love to know what's going on. I will ask him and once I've got an answer, I'll post it here for you.
As an explanation of the photos, the first one is just the cables going to each bus bar and the next two show that I've got power going to the switch panel when the cable is together and no power to the switch panel when the cable is disconnected.
Thanks all
Cooky
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15 hours ago, noelm said:
One fuse two devices is not a good idea, your diagram looks a bit confusing, what devices have you got connected, and how are they wired?
Hey Noelm,
Yes I agree that the shared fuse isn't the best and will be changed. All I have connected are my nav lights, a fish finder at this stage. I will be adding a VHF radio, a bilge pump and some LED strip lighting in the cabin.
Wiring is basically from the battery to the bus bar and from there to the shared fuse and then on to the device. The only thing that confuses me a bit is the additional yellow wire going to the negative bus bar as well but I'm just following the wiring instructions that came with the switch panel.
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On 4/26/2019 at 10:11 AM, Ah Me Ting said:
As crazy as it sounds, make sure you run your motor wiring (including via the switch you mention) direct to the battery.
Don't use any buss bars or link other +ve or -ve wiring. Just get it straight to the battery, with its own fuse of course.
Cross over current from motor to other electrical is cause of many issues.
Did you run a dual Battery set up? If so, check the wiring through the battery switch.
Hey Ah Ming, thanks for that. I will disconnect the bus bars as you suggested. I'd already used them prior to posting my query.
Cheers
Cooky
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Hey guys,
I've attached a diagram of what I've got so hopefully you'll understand what I've got.
The black and yellow wires that I've circled are connected to the negative side as per the instructions that came with the switch panel. I've also used two bus bars, a pos and a neg.
I have not used a fuse block as I'm relying on the fuses that are part of the switch panel.
As far as power to the bus bars goes, I've taken the existing pos and neg cables coming from the battery. These went to the original switch panel. I decided to replace the old one as it was poorly positioned and was pretty old and tired.
Looking forward to your replies ( I think
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Auto (marine) electrician required
in Boating
Posted
G’day raiders,
just wondering if anyone knows of a decent mobile leccy who can help me finish the wiring on my boat. I’m in the Galston area. Thanking you all in advance.
cooky.