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slowjigger

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Everything posted by slowjigger

  1. I think the issue is more that you have a naked flame in proximity to a large amount of petrol in a confined space. A 12V electric set up is inherently safer.
  2. Some of the new copolymer lines like Nitlon Soft and Sufix Supreme are supposed to be very abrasion resistant as well as fine for their breaking strain.
  3. The Fin Nor Santiago is a nice reel. Very well built with a nice power handle, strong drag and 2 speed gearing.
  4. 15 kg would be fine for bluefin (with 1.5 to 2 rod lengths of double). You could always change over the top shot depending on whether you are targeting kings or bluefin.
  5. I used to go past strike on kingies trying to reef me. I would go as high as my knees could stay straight with a 60 lb top shot. A lever drag reel also good for bluefin as some times you want to back the drag off to change their direction (they can run around headlands) or so they can outrun sharks. You can instantly return to strike drag with this type of reel. Also handy if you leave the outfit in a rod holder. You can leave a little bit of drag on to prevent an overrun.
  6. Well he said he is branching out from spinning to live baiting - so presumably he already has a spin outfit. A lever drag overhead is what you want for live baiting. PS: 80lb line is alright for a leader but overkill for a 100m top shot. No one is strong enough to use its potential through a LBG rod. Could be dangerous too given it is virtually unbreakable.
  7. You want 600m of line if you are chasing bluefin - they will run a long way. Also 10 - 15kg top shot is a rather light for kingfish off the rocks. I'd be looking at 24 kg. They are powerful and very dirty fighters.
  8. Sound like a manufacturing error. I would send it back. PS: I assume you haven't dismantled it - it is easy to put a part back the wrong way.
  9. The braid might be slipping on the spool. Otherwise, it's very strange.
  10. The converse will be true - the drag will be stronger with less line on the spool.
  11. I am not sure why you are worrying about 'stated line capacity'? Have you run out of line? In any case it's just a guide - you can go a bit below or a bit above without too many problems.
  12. I don't think I would want to use braid for live baiting. It's not very resistant to abrasion, prone to tangles. You could use it for backing though to boost line capacity. The Thunnus has a baitrunner feature. It would also be handy for letting the fish run before you set the hook. I would still prefer an overhead though. A star drag would cast a lot better than the TLD as it doesn't have all the drag washers attached to the spool. especially if it is smaller as well.
  13. I would have thought a threadline with braid is more suited to spinning than live baiting for several reasons. Also why would there be breakers to get past? Seems unusual if you are rock fishing. Normally if you can cast 10 meters or so the live bait will drift out on its own accord. You could look at a star drag overhead. It will cast a lot further than the TLD 25, especially if it is a bit smaller. You can also use braid backing to boost its line capacity.
  14. Fluorocarbon lasts a fair bit longer than mono. Unless it's braid (will last for decades) it has a limited shelf life though even if stored in a cupboard. It's not the sort of stuff you want to stockpile but rather buy as you need it. If it is for leaders you might have a bit more leeway if they are heavier than your main line.
  15. I fish down to 4lb braid - use the bimini on all breaking stains. I don't trust a single line for braid to mono joins. Just make sure you used double the normal 20 turns for mono.
  16. You don't want a big swell - under around 1.5m is preferable. I prefer a couple of hours either side of high tide - unless you are after whiting or dart which don't mind shallow water.
  17. Tie a bimini twist on the braid first to make a doubled line - use double the normal turns ie 40 or more. Then uses the double uni. This should be close to 100%.
  18. They should keep a long while in a keeper net. Also how many and how large are you catching? It should be feasible to carry enough ice or ice bricks to keep a reasonable catch, especially if you fillet them.
  19. Typo, obviously - $150.
  20. Well they do - sort of. Composite propellers are not dissimilar. I'm only talking about minor damage - around 5 cent piece size or smaller. I don't see any downside in such cases. A propeller specialist will charge $150 as a starting point - a bit over the top.
  21. Well i do speak from experience. I did mine in a similar area (the damage was a bit smaller). Still there after 18 months and i run at full throttle most of the time.
  22. You can JB weld small areas quite successfully if you want to save money.
  23. I still have and fish with a Jarvis Walker Silverwater.
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