slowjigger
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Everything posted by slowjigger
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Changing 2006 model 30 HP Yamaha tiller steer to side console.
slowjigger replied to Paikea's topic in Boating
I'm not sure it would be worth the expense and trouble. You will lose quite a bit of room too (your boat is a bit on the small side). Might lead to trim problems as well. And more things to go wrong - especially cable steering. -
You can't put polyester over epoxy but epoxy over polyester is fine and the way to go if you are repairing from the outside.
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OK in that case I would use epoxy resin as it has better adhesive qualities. I don't think it is compatible with chopped strand though.
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So are you going to repair it from the inside? It's not clear from my reading. Are you say it has a curved transom? If so repairing from the inside would be the way to go. Polyester resin would be suitable in that case. It's normal to mix layers of chopped strand and double bias. Also 450g is not very heavy. You could go to 800g for extra strength (lighter weights are used for more delicate work such as sharp angles). Another thought is that you could make into a straight transom to simplify the repair.
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I have been doing it for decades and my motors last 20 years or more. The motor will stop almost instantaneously when it runs out of fuel and there will still be a residual coating of oil on the rings, cylinders etc. Plus it's not under load and at very low revs and doesn't need a lot of lubrication. A few times I didn't do it I noticed hard starting if left for a few months. PS: they just sputter out - haven't noticed any over revving.
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Why don't you ditch the auxiliary motor? The weight should come out about the same on your figures.
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Not advisable in a 4.6M boat. Westerly winds have a nasty habit of getting much stronger than forecast. There is not much lee effect when you are that far out.
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I realise that. Aluminium will tend to grab cuttings disks.
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Aluminium tends to grab disks. Generally, it's best to use grinders for grinding as posts here indicate.
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Sound good, though cold gal should be applied to bare metal, ie not over a rust converter.
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Uhm, everyone's eyes are delicate.
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It can send you blind if you get it in your eyes. Totally reckless to use strong acid (throwing it around) without eye protection.
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It's better to heat the nut - you want to expand it away from the bolt.
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They make a penetrating spray. It is sure to come in handy for other jobs eg stuck fishing reel screws.
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That's assuming your bottle is concentrated HCL This will be 37-38% as it can't be dissolved in water much higher than that. You need some serious PPE such as acid resistant gloves, safety glasses and or face shield, and avoid breathing the fumes.
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They have been polite with my last couple of encounters. I suspect they may have been told to pull their heads in. I was hearing it everywhere and experienced it myself - harassment, false claims, etc.
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General advice - you even mentioned yourself to use plenty of water to wash away and 'neutralise' the acid. Some will get on the holder as well (it looks a bit far gone though).
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Also HCL just doesn't simply wash off and it attacks the metal and can make it more vulnerable to corrosion:
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You left out the candle wax step. And given multiple applications might be needed - yes this could get tiresome compared to just squirting the nozzle on a spray can.
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Sounds a bit complicated and potentially hazardous. WD40 make a penetrating spray. You can also alternate with heating it up with a blow torch. I have had a lot of success with this combination.
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Owner have a good reputation.
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Well as a guide 20lb line will handle 3 oz sinkers plus bait without any breakoffs. I have even used 4 oz when snapper fishing off the rocks.
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Cold gal is meant to go onto bare metal. If you are going to use rust converter then I would use a good quality paint, oil based or epoxy.
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Exactly. It's like beer - save the hot food for when you get home. I like coke and Shapes (savoury biscuits), when outside fishing. Seems to settle the stomach too. I'll throw in a Mars Bar or Picnic as well.
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I think the issue is more that you have a naked flame in proximity to a large amount of petrol in a confined space. A 12V electric set up is inherently safer.
