slowjigger

It could be an electrical problem. Best to let the mechanic sort it out. Also probably not a good idea to keep running it like that.

They come in 2 sizes. With the larger ones I use a jig head with a 4/0 hook plus an extra stinger hook for any short bites.

Have a look at the Chasebait 3D squid. They appear more realistic and I have had success with them.

At least he said Sydney was full and has continuously spoken out against a Big Australia.

I think the marine parks came along later, under Iiemma. He gave a speech to a bunch of green groups about it - congratulating them over their 'informed advocacy'.

The smell goes away once the glue sets. The gel type glues seem to work better. Be aware if you have the wrong combination of glue and plastic the plastic can melt.

30% of NSW waters are marine parks. Sydney is the only region missing one. We nearly got one under the LNP - imagine what would happen if Labor got in and they need the support of the Greens. They are already boasting about a list of demands.

I have you done much beach fishing? It may not be a good way to start (using lures). It's not very productive compared to bait fishing (from the beach) in my experience.

Is it the braid or the fluoro leader breaking? What weight of lures are you using?

Well, it's less productive than bait fishing, especially off the rocks. One factor is you won't get the same casting distance. You want to get out past the reef onto the sand and gravel which is where they tend to hang around.

Well, you are already making it hard for yourself using soft plastics while being land based. The most productive way is to make a long cast (90 - 100m) from the ocean rocks using bait. You want to get out past the reef and on to sand or gravel. To that end a 4 oz snapper lead and a paternoster rig is usually employed. A tough oil fish fillet like trevally is used for bait and 3/0 suicide octopus or suicide hook. Summer and autumn is more productive as this is when snapper are in close.

It's certainly substantial enough for what you describe. I'm not aware of its particular handling traits though. Some boats handle following seas better than others. Just keep in mind broaching can be a dangerous outcome in following seas. Use plenty of up trim to keep the bow up when going with the swells.

Well, it's good practice anyway to use a heavier leader, usually about double the strength of the main line. There is some more wear and tear at the business end even if a bite off is unlikely. You might hook a large fish like a kingfish which might try to reef you or a northern bluefin tuna which could fight for an hour. So just use a more neutral colour for your leader.

That would be the CD Rapala's. You can still buy them. They are reasonably heavy so they cast well. A tip is to glue some sheet lead to the top of the tail and this stops them tangling with the line in flight.

They may not have been watching the volume and assumed it would click off when full. The same thing happened to me many years ago. I told the young garage attendant to; fill er up', he put the nozzle in the rod holder and clicked it on.

The bolts are in poor condition (rust) I would be replacing them if I was you. Also, rust is setting into you cross members. It can accelerate quickly from this state. You might want to spray it with lanolin or other water repelling product to slow it down.

They are more a winter fish. Also, I assume you are fishing the gutters? Near high tide is favourable as well.

I heard someone got a PhD researching this topic.

Have a look at the Shimano Raider range - moderately priced and are graphite with cork grips.

Electrolysis is caused by stray current. Galvanic corrosion is caused by different metals being in contact. If the sinker was rolling around and it was a dry area, then there may not have been any corrosion. Those pictures don't look too bad for an 18-year-old boat and given that they are not in structurally important areas. Just don't use anything ferrous when cleaning up the corrosion prior to panting. Also etch primer has to be coated with undercoat prior to the final finishing coat.

I think the Arvor is semi-displacement as well.

I would be looking at 20 knots top speed as a minimum. With the distances you will be doing anything significantly less would be very tiresome. A bit of speed doesn't hurt either in outrunning bad weather and generally handling and sea keeping. Another thing the speed of a displacement boat is governed by a formula. There is a point where adding more horsepower won't see any increase in speed. So, if the boat you are looking at is a displacement hull as you say it you won't get anywhere near 20 knots. That said it looks like a planning hull from your pictures (displacement boats typically have round bottoms): "As a very general rule the maximum speed of any displacement hull--commonly called its hull speed--is governed by a simple formula: hull speed in knots equals 1.34 times the square root of the waterline length in feet (HS = 1.34 x √LWL). Thus, for example, if you have a 35-foot boat with a waterline length of 28 feet, its hull speed works out to a little over 7 knots (1.34 x √28 = 7.09)".

I'm not sure why it would be hard to line up the rods with a hole in the cage each time. Another solution would be to do away with the cage. You can tie down heavy objects. Also, so long as objects are not in line of sight to where you are seated, they should pose no risk. I'm not sure what you mean by 'couldn't work out an easy way to get to the rods' with the roof rack option. Are they too high to reach?

Squid doesn't have to be live to catch kingfish. It has to be very fresh though - or frozen while it is very fresh.

20lb braid is usually the best choice for bottom fishing. The lighter you go the easier it is to hold bottom when drifting. It is plenty strong enough for snapper, mowies etc. Maybe just use the boats gear for bottom fishing and bring your outfit for lures. By the way 1/2 oz won't be nearly heavy enough to reach the bottom. I use 60-80g inchicu jigs for that sort of fishing.