Kruzenvax

Greg, I thought Magnims were freshwater only? Might be wrong... Thanks Alex

Being to the Tony's shop... I couldn't believe they did these rods themselves... looks to me you need a 1000+ people factory to do the job. Unbeliveable stuff.

I can speak of MinnKota only (never used anything else). My points (for what they worth) are: 1) I'd go for a longer shaft - sometimes I drop the head all the way down so it does not cavitate when waves are more than normal. 2) More power is better - yes 2x battery weight, cots (good charger is a must) but I troll when windy no problems (lets say started trolling - not that I catch many fish that way but 80lb pushes the boat well). Plus I run my livewell aerator etc out of leccy batteries 3) Autopilot is good when trolling or when I'm moving from spot to spot (say from racks to moored boats when breaming) and don't want to raise the electric, start the outboard, etc 4) Co-pilot (wireless remote) is also very good - e.g. I drive the electric from wherever I want still have my pedal at the front when I need it. HTH

I've just learned that Lithgow Trout farm is closed permanently... wonder to they stock the trout in Lyell etc out of this farm?

Thanks

Thanks Miller, So your rods are ahead of the downrigger... that helps. When you troll - with your mate - do you have someone all the time driving the boat and someone working on 2 rods and riggers (when you have 2)? Cheers

Reminds me of basstrix...

Hi Luke, I'm in the same boat with you on this E.g. I have the downrigger that I didn't have chance to use a lot. It is on the side of the boat because the standard Quintrex transom has this kind of "pod" behind so if I have the downrigger at the back I'll be dropping the bomb on this pod. I ended up mounting it on the side rail (I didn't want to put something permanent because I might sell this boat and for the reason above can;t use gimble mount - the arm will be looking back), but when I was exploring the mounting options with the dealer he demonstrated to me a piece of plastic (material similar to the one used for kitchen cutting boards) cut to the shape to go beneath the gunwale. I also eneded up with it on the starboard side (the right side, is it?) so I can see the sounder screen while working woth the downrigger. HTH Mariner, may I ask you - and anybody else here - what's the best position for the road holder of the trolling rod (for the downrigger with the arm pointing to the side of the boat) - straight on the arm, before the downrigger (looking from the back of the boat) or after? On th epictire above it is after. Thanks

You're welcome I've heard about some "special" anchprs (Sarca???) that couldhold the boat and be retrieved from everywhere.... but didn;t get an impression it's the solution... hence the question here: I think there's all the infor provoded by the fol here (thanks)... but I wouldn't mind more comments Yes, I've heard that sounder (I have one) can determine the type of bottom... but I'm yet to master this art!

OK, thanks a lot for the info. I can make some sonclusions based on it but before that: my boat is 4.60 Quintrex Freedom Sport. Unfortunatelly I have not clue what was the reef structure there - for now I fish Botany and Around; will start going Sydney Harbour the coming season. Now based on the information kindly provided here I assume: * 8mm rope maybe too thin - will have to use 10mm * Reef ancgor is the must - it seems like it may hold OK even on sand - so I assume you gus have it tied to the rope (chain) all the time and use it 1st. If it doesn't hold (and - somehow - you know there's sand below) - you change reef to sand at the chain right on the spot. * you just release enough rope till you sse the good angle and you feel the boat is steady - no need to measure there. Mariner, unfortunatelly I can't weld myself so I will have use a COTS reef anchor with chain for now - but the point is taken and if can get a custom made one (also taking Dorados' suggestions onboard) - I will. Thanks

Hi all, At the end of the last season I have lost my anchor in Botany Bay. A common opinion from people I've asked (including some very helpful people from here) was that I was probably hit a reef structure, for which I need to use a specialised reef anchor . So for this season I have to be better prepared, hence I'd like to ask some questions here: 1) Assuming that I can't use a reef anchor on sand and vice versa my normal anchor on the reef - how do I determine which one to use in the spot I want to anchor at? 2) Does the reef anchor need a chain as well? 3) Do you change the anchor at the end of the chain on the spot or you have 2 rigs (2 ropes, 2 chains, etc)? Don't think I have enough space for 2 rigs in the well. What is the best way to change an anchor - just the D-shackle? 4) All inctruction on now to anchor say "you have to use N x depth", so I need to know I'm letting say 60 or 30 meters of the rope out. How do you guys know how many meters are out - e.g. just experience or you mark the rope somehow? 5) What rope? I have a choice of 100m of 10mm and 100m of 8mm. I'd prefer 8mm - better fit in the well but will the thinner rope cut my hands or so? Apologies for the big list of questions. Thanks a lot.

For my next "full" season on the water I have invested in good "wearable" PFD's for the whole family. I hope the person who was responsible the accident gets reported.

Thanks everybody for replying. I tried loops and those plastic things that have a clip on them... but somehow I didn' like the way the sinker hangs from the "side" of my line - if you cath my drift Th whole idea was to change barrel and ball sinkers that will sit straight on the line. You right, it is complex though, hence my doubts. Perhaps I'll make couple tonight and see how they go... inhlanzi, looks like those "C Sinkers" are spot on idea... if I evere be able to find them; the web site is doen (not your linl, but the following link to the manufacturer).

Pardom me for asking - but where do you buy them? Doesn't seem to be sold in my local tackle store(s)...

Hi all, I've got that idea, which I'd like to share and get people's opinion on it. All my live baiting/trilling/bait rods are set up in the following way: double in the mainline (braid) tied to a reasonable sized swivel-and-snap. than I have various fluoro traces (different hooks, 2-hook rigs for squid, etc) that all end up with the swivel. This alloows me to change rigs quickly w/out re-tying knots (epsecially on braid). The only question remains is what if I want to add a sinker. So that's what I decided to do: - took a piece of a wire trace (125kg) - about 5cm long, - threaded through a barrel snker (various sizes) - used a krimping tool to create loops, - one loop has the same swivel-and-snap. So to add/change sinkers I just need to use 2 snaps and that's it. But the downside is that I have more points of failure (2 krimped loops and a snap): ===braid===SNAP/---wire trace-- OOsinkerOOO---wire trace---SNAP/Swivel......leader....hook So what do you think? Good idea or it was not worth the trouble? Thanks

Slinky, What do you use for yor tests? E.g. what scales? I had fifferent results (differemt lines though) but my ktchen scales are rubbish. Thinking about using these scales for setting drags...

Slinky, What I'd suggest for tying (and testing) the slim beauty: this knot is - effectively - a 2-part knot. 2nd part that you tie with braid is the same knot (I don't recall the name) as recommended in the "Book" to tie braid to swiwels, etc. The 1st part that you tie with the leader - "classical" slim beauty suggests tying a "granny" knot and threading braid throught the figure of 8. What I have discovered (tired to test but I don't have the rights scales) is it is faster (especially for thinner lines) to tie a uni with the leader aroind the braid instead - and there is no loss of strength. I hope I explained it clearly, sorry, if not. Cheers

Have you tired slim beauty? I use it a lot - never had a trouble.

Always wondering (especially afte Snapper in Port Hacking report) what is the best time/place to start taregting snapper in Syd? Is now the right time - e.g. should I put gear back to the boat?

I agree with Slinky 100%. I have Freedom SPort with Etec; picked up that layout (bowrider) for the same reasons as yours - e.g. fishing boat for me and "cruising" for the family; however I have discovered the only thing all the family does now is fishing (so perhaps my next boat, which is on the hroizon, will be centre or side console ) I have no problems with fishability of the boat, I'd just add the following to Slinky's suggestions: - very easy to mount and use bowmount electric. - I didn't go for a plumbed livevell (for the reasons mentioned above, to save space); now I regret it. I use an esky with the keepalive for now and it works fine (my dealer is eager to add livewell aftermaket but I'll be getting that with the new boat). - buy a front casting deck option. Takes seconds to convert from it to cusioned seating in front for the family; or to the rasied deck for lurecasting with leccy; also when casting deck is on there's a good storage underneath. - I keep rear seats down for I installed 3 big plano tackle boxes underneath and all my fishing tackle is stored there with heaps of space. It also provides a "pocket" for downrigger, etc whih are not sotred "behind". - For the rod storage - for the same reasons as Slinky mentioned I don't use a "rocket launcher". I didn't go for a "bow door" option; when all family is flicking lures rods there get in a way when I need to help my wife or sun landing the fish (they catch more fish than me!) - we keep this door open all the time. Instead I made 2 removable rod holders that mount on that frame around the windscreen on the left side. Can store 10 rods there now. HTH

Thanks jewgaffer, Do you think this is applicable to the braid as well? I'm thinking of getting an empty spool on a electro screwdriver, winding the line from the threadline with bailarm open and test for twist as you've described. Cheers

Thanks Slinky, Unfortunately, reels are fifferent in sizes... but I'll keep that "countertwisting" approach for the future Alex

Hi all, I spool all mey threadline reels in a way that has been recommended to me by the tackle shop people (and various articles) - e.g. laying the spoll with the line on the floor label up, etc - in order to prevent line twist. Now I need to take the line from some reels - not to trash it but to re-spool. What whoud be the best way to take the line so I can spool again with no twist? Thanks

Thanks. Is Tony on this forum? Can I PM him?

Thanks guys, I must admit I feel slightly lost on spheros - e.g. where to get that upgraded version, and I can't use an overhead reel as the rod is a spin one. So saragosa seems to be something I can comprehed , thanks netic. Just 2 questions - is 14000 the proper size for jigging (I assume it is) and what does "Stopperless Design (No Anti-Reverse Switch) " mean? ANy other suggestions are appreciated btw Thanks