Outboard height

[Fab1]

4 hours ago, noelm said:

Yeah sorry, 20mm is not 2", my tiny mind is going round in circles, things like this bug me....

We have alot in common mate.I'm a stubborn bas#$%d too and will not give up without a solution when doing anything until I'm happy.

[Fab1]

4 hours ago, frankS said:

Fab and noel. So how much does the transom need to be raised so the motor fits properly 3 " or 4" ? or what .

It is pretty simple to cut a chunk of 3" or 4" x 1 1/2" rhs alloy section to the shape of the transom and weld it in place. And if it comes up short place lengths of flat on top to make up the distance. Would be good to get it right the first time instead of adding bits and pieces on to make up height.

I will leave it up to you 2 to sort that part out.

Also Fab, could you take a photo of inside the transom where the support brace is . I would like to make a additional support brace to accommodate the extra height of the transom as I feel the smallish support that is present is too low and not really supporting much at all.

Frank

Here you go mate.

3 hours ago, wrxhoon1 said:

Looks like you may  have a 22.5" shaft engine. Is it a 2 stroke Enduro? Some of them came with 22.5" shafts.

As others have suggested you have 2 options, jack plate or weld an extension on the top of the transom and cross  brace it on the inside.

As the boat was bought after January 2011 you are covered by consumer warranty ( if you choose to go down that road). It states the good must be fit for the purpose and last a reasonable time . Clearly it is not fit for the purpose as it is a planning hull the 3" bellow the bottom of the hull creates a lot of drag . 

If you want to fight it ( provided the dealer is still in business) call fair trading and they will advice you what to do.

I would take them on but that's me, I understand if you just want it fixed and put it down to experience .

Good luck with whatever you decide to do .

Can you measure the shaft length of your engine, would be interesting to know what engine you have.

To do that run your tape from the anti ventilation plate ( or cavitation plate if that's what you call it) to under that mounting bracket.  

It's a 30cv.Looks the same as an enduro to me.Don't know if the difference is just different cowlings. 

 I measured 22" roughly just then.

I'll cop it on the chin this time for over looking it in the first place mate and not having time or energy to deal with it due to the usual work,sick family etc.

3 hours ago, kingie chaser said:

Thats what I was suggesting as well.

 

To know the motor specs you just need the model/serial number & look it up on the net, fairly easy.

Here you go.According to my understanding I have a 2009 model longshaft.

[noelm]

22" will make sense then, the ID label does indicate a standard long, but, who knows what happened 11 years ago, if you take the 2" off, it would be pretty close...but not perfect, I might do some digging and see what I can ferret out.

[wrxhoon1]

I don't know if they had the CV in 22.5" but they definitely had Enduro 40 hp . They also had some in that HP range with 21.7" or 21.9" . CV stands for customer value , Enduro was more commercial  grade.

Third option and much more expensive, is to repower with a 4 stroke with 20" shaft. It is not a bad option if you use the boat a lot and provided you can buy a new engine. You will get good money selling your old one as well.

[Fab1]

1 hour ago, noelm said:

22" will make sense then, the ID label does indicate a standard long, but, who knows what happened 11 years ago, if you take the 2" off, it would be pretty close...but not perfect, I might do some digging and see what I can ferret out.

Ok,cheers mate.Maybe pm me as I'm sure people are sick of this post.

1 hour ago, wrxhoon1 said:

I don't know if they had the CV in 22.5" but they definitely had Enduro 40 hp . They also had some in that HP range with 21.7" or 21.9" . CV stands for customer value , Enduro was more commercial  grade.

Third option and much more expensive, is to repower with a 4 stroke with 20" shaft. It is not a bad option if you use the boat a lot and provided you can buy a new engine. You will get good money selling your old one as well.

I've thought about repowering 4 stroke option and even e-tec option many times and i always come to the conclusion I've got rocks in my head wasting thousands of $$$ (8 k plus) on purchase,servicing etc when there is nothing wrong with mine(It's nearly brand new condition) and costs bugger all to run and maintain.

My boat doesn't get used much mate.

   I'd rather have  a 2 stroke laying idle than a fourstroke.

  The idea of it all doesn't make financial sense to me.

  I reckon my outboard will outlive civilisation  itself.🤣😊

Like I've said I've had many scenarios going through my head over the years including buying a brand new boat and for the use I get from boat ownership and financially when I weigh it all up WE LIKE OUR LITTLE QUINNY.It's been a great boat for our needs.

[Smobaby]

If there is nothing wrong withe the boat or engine just bite the bullet and modify the transom to suit the motor shaft length problem solved , boat will run like it should have from day 1. WTf was the dealer trying to scam with that set up, hope you go the boat for a good price. You will have an even higher transom to stop possible water intrusion, take the foil off and enjoy. If you get stuck with any modification PM me I have a fab shop.

[Fab1]

1 hour ago, Smobaby said:

If there is nothing wrong withe the boat or engine just bite the bullet and modify the transom to suit the motor shaft length problem solved , boat will run like it should have from day 1. WTf was the dealer trying to scam with that set up, hope you go the boat for a good price. You will have an even higher transom to stop possible water intrusion, take the foil off and enjoy. If you get stuck with any modification PM me I have a fab shop.

Cheers.

[Fab1]

25 minutes ago, motiondave said:

Ive been reading through the comments and if someone can help you with raising the transom a bit, then take that offer.

 

Otherwise, people have suggested its the dealer fault and the dealer should fix it.

Any dealer, boats, cars, they are only required to check its running, not to check if the motor is the right height.

You obviously bought the boat with some form of paperwork and guarantee from the dealer that its running. If the motor is 2.5" below, thats not the dealers problem. If you are unhappy with it, the dealer is within their rights to either help you, at a cost, or not.

You could put all the bad reviews up about them, but in the end, YOU bought the boat, as is. If you didnt check it, thats not their problem.

Its like when I worked for second hand performance car dealer, we had people inspect, test drive the car, buy it and one a few occasions, they called us saying they are unhappy with the car and wanted us to make changes. 
Nope, you inspected it, drove it, bought it, sure we will mod it for you, at a cost. But YOU bought it and we have all the paperwork stating what is required, by law to sell a vehicle.

Like I said, I'm kicking myself for overlooking it at the time of purchase.It's my fault I didn't check and give them a swift kick up the clacker then and there to fix it before I paid for it in full and took delivery.

No point crying over spilt milk 11 yrs or so later.

  It's no big deal.I have 3 options....leave as is,extend transom or make up my own jack plate.

 I'm leaning towards making up my own jack plate just for the pure adjustability of it.

If I ask Frank or someone else to raise transom 2 or 3 inches and it's still not quite right it's a bit late after a extra beams been welded to the hull especially if it now is a bit high at water test time.

 I'm in no hurry as it's not like I use the bloody thing daily and when I or Frank or someone else rectifies the issue  hopefully it will be done right this time around.

  I don't slag dealers for something that was my stupid fault for not checking.You can bet your bottom dollar though had I known at purchase they'd be asked nicely to fix the issue then if they didn't comply that's when they'd  cop both barrels until it was fixed.

  Agree,you buy without inspecting your fault.

[frankS]

A jack plate will extend the motor out more rearward from the transom so make sure you have enough slack in the steer cable so that it still steers correctly. Gear and throttle cable shouldn't be a problem.

Frank

[noelm]

Just looking at the pictures, it would be way easier to just build the top of the transom up, it only needs to come up enough to allow the screw clamps inside to clamp onto something solid, the bolts are usually much lower than the clamps. All this talk of "fit for purpose" and contacting Fair Trading should be discounted, the rig is 11 years old and has been happily used during that time, whether it's correctly installed or not, 11 years is way past any reasonable time frame to expect dealer help (in my opinion) There is a few way to help rectify the height, all have been mentioned, it's up to the owner to decide how to go about the process, and if the height will achieve the desired result, it's very much a best guess job right now.

[frankS]

Here's one I made some years back to suit a 90 hp motor.

Not a good photo but it's the only one I have as the boat was sold .

It is a heavy duty alloy plate that fits to the transom with extra height added to lift motor, this way the motor stays level with the original transom and doesn't extend out from the transom.

Bit hard to see from the photo but look closely and you will see the benefits of this over JUST having angle iron bolted together with ply in the middle.

Found another shot. Motor not fitted properly in this shot but shows the jack plate design better, this was a prototype and modified later to suit this motor.

This would be suitable if you didn't want to weld extra metal to the boat. You could use existing mounting holes.

Frank

Edited February 5, 2022 by frankS

[noelm]

I guess you need to understand what happens to an outboard/transom when under load, the bottom bolts become the fulcrum (point of leverage) the motor wants to push these into the transom, because the force is applied below this point (the prop) it wants to pull the top of the motor off the boat, two forces in opposite directions, how much force is applied depends on the HP (of course) for motors 70HP (or there about) a simple aluminium plate about 10mm think of suitable size (cut to look "nice" and powder coated or painted to suit the boat, and bolted to the transom using the original holes, plus two right near the top, leaving the top of the plate sitting about the transom to receive the two top bolts/screw clamps is plenty. Similarly, building up the transom to a suitable height is also acceptable and probably easier in a lot of ways, there's a dozen ways (well maybe not a dozen) ways to do this, how is up to the owner.

[Fab1]

6 hours ago, frankS said:

Here's one I made some years back to suit a 90 hp motor.

Not a good photo but it's the only one I have as the boat was sold .

It is a heavy duty alloy plate that fits to the transom with extra height added to lift motor, this way the motor stays level with the original transom and doesn't extend out from the transom.

Bit hard to see from the photo but look closely and you will see the benefits of this over JUST having angle iron bolted together with ply in the middle.

Found another shot. Motor not fitted properly in this shot but shows the jack plate design better, this was a prototype and modified later to suit this motor.

This would be suitable if you didn't want to weld extra metal to the boat. You could use existing mounting holes.

Frank

Nice work mate.I thought about doing exactly the same thing except slotted for more adjustability.A home made jack plate will still be set at the same transom angle if I make one and have the benefit of full adjustability a couple inches up/down to test different heights on the water.

  Fixed height you're playing a guessing game.May be right/may still need tweaking.

Will see what I do or may even get it right like this with an adjustable jack plate.And then when I know the exact height perhaps ask you to weld a tube right along the transom at that same height.

  Cheers.

  

5 hours ago, noelm said:

I guess you need to understand what happens to an outboard/transom when under load, the bottom bolts become the fulcrum (point of leverage) the motor wants to push these into the transom, because the force is applied below this point (the prop) it wants to pull the top of the motor off the boat, two forces in opposite directions, how much force is applied depends on the HP (of course) for motors 70HP (or there about) a simple aluminium plate about 10mm think of suitable size (cut to look "nice" and powder coated or painted to suit the boat, and bolted to the transom using the original holes, plus two right near the top, leaving the top of the plate sitting about the transom to receive the two top bolts/screw clamps is plenty. Similarly, building up the transom to a suitable height is also acceptable and probably easier in a lot of ways, there's a dozen ways (well maybe not a dozen) ways to do this, how is up to the owner.

Agree.I know what I'm making just gathering my materials now.

  When i get it right I'll either leave it at that or ask Frank to weld a rhs right along the transom at the height I come up with after testing on water. 

Edited February 6, 2022 by Fab1

[Fab1]

Well a mate gave me a 430mm length of 100×50x 6mm ally to start on my adjustable jack plate.

  Doing it all by hand has been fun.🙄

Here's what I'm up too it's all roughly cut out and sanded(Needs more finishing later).The bolts and nuts are just there to trial I'll get proper staino ones later.

That plywood board they are sitting on will be mounted across the two brackets so the outboard sits on.

They are adjustable 3 inches.

Cheers.

[frankS]

Looks like you won't be needing me.

You do good work. I'm sure this will work out OK for you.

Don't forget to do an update and let us all know how it works.

Frank

[Fab1]

19 hours ago, frankS said:

Looks like you won't be needing me.

You do good work. I'm sure this will work out OK for you.

Don't forget to do an update and let us all know how it works.

Frank

Will do mate.Thanks.

[dunc333]

nice work fab1 hope it works to your specs

[Fab1]

2 lengths of this will fit nicely across the brackets to mount motor on

me thinks.I doubt my motor will fall off after I'm done.I may sink though as I tend to make things last 3,679 yrs.😂

[noelm]

I know the feeling about over building things, I always start out simple, then add a brace, then another brace, then bolts, then weld.....

[Fab1]

Just now, noelm said:

I know the feeling about over building things, I always start out simple, then add a brace, then another brace, then bolts, then weld.....

As the saying goes better safe than sorry.The beauty about doing things yourself is you can make it exactly like you want to fit your requirements/tastes.

[Fab1]

Pretty much made now.I just need to buy some staino hardware and fit it to my boat.I made it so it extends the transom height sitting flush and doesn't stick out a couple inches.

It's set at 75mm which will make the cav plate/hydrofoil sit level with the bottom of hull.

  I made another 2 crossbraces set at 50mm and 25 mm respectively so I can change to 3 heights if I need to not photographed.

 Alot of mucking around as I did it all by hand and didn't have the right ally to use so had to cut down a piece of 100x50x6mm down to 75x50,50x50,and 25x50 by hand and file it all too.That was fun.🙄

Edited February 12, 2022 by Fab1

[dunc333]

amazing job looks good

[Fab1]

Well I pulled the motor off just before and fitted jack plate.Just as I suspected before starting little project 3 inches is a long way up unsupported on a relatively flimsy aluminium transom.

 And there's no way to change trim settings manually as trim pin hits jack plate.

 Mission aborted and put my motor back on how it was originally.

Lessons learnt.....Don't be afraid to have a crack if it's only really going to cost you your time and no major damage will result from it.

 Life goes on.

 

[frankS]

Fab. Hate to be critical mate but by putting that piece of channel alloy on and having it sitting on top of the existing transom, the jack plate ( angle irons ) are simply not doing anything. 

You might as well just run a couple of bolts down through the C channel and bolt it onto the transom.

Frank

 

[Fab1]

26 minutes ago, frankS said:

Fab. Hate to be critical mate but by putting that piece of channel alloy on and having it sitting on top of the existing transom, the jack plate ( angle irons ) are simply not doing anything. 

You might as well just run a couple of bolts down through the C channel and bolt it onto the transom.

Frank

 

I agree mate.I wanted to try to get away with it to try different engine heights before I decided if I wanted to have a length of ally welded across the transom permanently like we spoke about.

  By taking people's criticism is how we all learn mate.

I knew this would happen before I even started pretty much but because it only cost my time and effort I was hoping it wouldn't be as bad as I thought so I could trial the 3 different heights. 

  3 inches is alot of extra height on what's essentially a relatively flimsy transom.