Fab1
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Posts posted by Fab1
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19 hours ago, frankS said:
Looks like you won't be needing me.
You do good work. I'm sure this will work out OK for you.
Don't forget to do an update and let us all know how it works.
Frank
Will do mate.Thanks.
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And here i was thinking you'd sunk in your boat as I hadn't heard from you in a while and I'd be in with a chance.😂😂Let me know when you upgrade to catching fish with a piece of bare cotton tied around your little toe then I'll be impressed.
Great report and capture as usual young man.Well done!
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My 30yr old lunch box and soup flask.It's seen everything from construction sites,to factories,to holidays,to boat use.I have a coffee flask that matches that's 30yrs old too.
They are crap now mate in guess where.Mines all US made.
Let's see any systema last that long.😂🤣😂
Hope it works for ya mate.
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Well a mate gave me a 430mm length of 100×50x 6mm ally to start on my adjustable jack plate.
Doing it all by hand has been fun.🙄
Here's what I'm up too it's all roughly cut out and sanded(Needs more finishing later).The bolts and nuts are just there to trial I'll get proper staino ones later.
That plywood board they are sitting on will be mounted across the two brackets so the outboard sits on.
They are adjustable 3 inches.
Cheers.
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1 hour ago, Little_Flatty said:
I’m sure he could. Pretty sure the price is just asking Fab
I was kidding.I quite like feeding the fishes.I find it a relaxing pastime.
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Can this master help me stop feeding my bait to the fishes and catch a few?What's the hourly rate?
Good read and well done.
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Get a mounting plate made up and weld it on.You could easily make one up yourself if your handy and pop rivet it on sealing it with sikafkex.
Weld option will require paint touch up.
Piece of polyethylene chopping board material glued on or even sealed marine ply will work at a pinch too.
Here's mine and you could do the same in the weld version described above or the bent edge option and riveted for diy version.
Sounders are easily changed from one to the next mate.
Some people make it sound like your building a rocket to change from one sounder to another.
Get the best sounder you can afford.Even a basic sounder has more features than you will probably ever use.
Lots of info out there if you search.
All the best and most of all have fun with your boat.
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6 hours ago, frankS said:
Here's one I made some years back to suit a 90 hp motor.
Not a good photo but it's the only one I have as the boat was sold .
It is a heavy duty alloy plate that fits to the transom with extra height added to lift motor, this way the motor stays level with the original transom and doesn't extend out from the transom.
Bit hard to see from the photo but look closely and you will see the benefits of this over JUST having angle iron bolted together with ply in the middle.
Found another shot. Motor not fitted properly in this shot but shows the jack plate design better, this was a prototype and modified later to suit this motor.
This would be suitable if you didn't want to weld extra metal to the boat. You could use existing mounting holes.
Frank
Nice work mate.I thought about doing exactly the same thing except slotted for more adjustability.A home made jack plate will still be set at the same transom angle if I make one and have the benefit of full adjustability a couple inches up/down to test different heights on the water.
Fixed height you're playing a guessing game.May be right/may still need tweaking.
Will see what I do or may even get it right like this with an adjustable jack plate.And then when I know the exact height perhaps ask you to weld a tube right along the transom at that same height.
Cheers.
5 hours ago, noelm said:I guess you need to understand what happens to an outboard/transom when under load, the bottom bolts become the fulcrum (point of leverage) the motor wants to push these into the transom, because the force is applied below this point (the prop) it wants to pull the top of the motor off the boat, two forces in opposite directions, how much force is applied depends on the HP (of course) for motors 70HP (or there about) a simple aluminium plate about 10mm think of suitable size (cut to look "nice" and powder coated or painted to suit the boat, and bolted to the transom using the original holes, plus two right near the top, leaving the top of the plate sitting about the transom to receive the two top bolts/screw clamps is plenty. Similarly, building up the transom to a suitable height is also acceptable and probably easier in a lot of ways, there's a dozen ways (well maybe not a dozen) ways to do this, how is up to the owner.
Agree.I know what I'm making just gathering my materials now.
When i get it right I'll either leave it at that or ask Frank to weld a rhs right along the transom at the height I come up with after testing on water.
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25 minutes ago, motiondave said:
Ive been reading through the comments and if someone can help you with raising the transom a bit, then take that offer.
Otherwise, people have suggested its the dealer fault and the dealer should fix it.
Any dealer, boats, cars, they are only required to check its running, not to check if the motor is the right height.
You obviously bought the boat with some form of paperwork and guarantee from the dealer that its running. If the motor is 2.5" below, thats not the dealers problem. If you are unhappy with it, the dealer is within their rights to either help you, at a cost, or not.
You could put all the bad reviews up about them, but in the end, YOU bought the boat, as is. If you didnt check it, thats not their problem.
Its like when I worked for second hand performance car dealer, we had people inspect, test drive the car, buy it and one a few occasions, they called us saying they are unhappy with the car and wanted us to make changes.
Nope, you inspected it, drove it, bought it, sure we will mod it for you, at a cost. But YOU bought it and we have all the paperwork stating what is required, by law to sell a vehicle.Like I said, I'm kicking myself for overlooking it at the time of purchase.It's my fault I didn't check and give them a swift kick up the clacker then and there to fix it before I paid for it in full and took delivery.
No point crying over spilt milk 11 yrs or so later.
It's no big deal.I have 3 options....leave as is,extend transom or make up my own jack plate.
I'm leaning towards making up my own jack plate just for the pure adjustability of it.
If I ask Frank or someone else to raise transom 2 or 3 inches and it's still not quite right it's a bit late after a extra beams been welded to the hull especially if it now is a bit high at water test time.
I'm in no hurry as it's not like I use the bloody thing daily and when I or Frank or someone else rectifies the issue hopefully it will be done right this time around.
I don't slag dealers for something that was my stupid fault for not checking.You can bet your bottom dollar though had I known at purchase they'd be asked nicely to fix the issue then if they didn't comply that's when they'd cop both barrels until it was fixed.
Agree,you buy without inspecting your fault.
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DIY
in The Workshop
26 minutes ago, frankS said:Something very simple to do but very rewarding is a bird bath.
Just get an old cooking our friends coat it with some release agent and put a few layers of fibreglass in the wok and you have the bowl. then get some PVC pipe and mould it to the bottom of the bowl . once dry place it on a pole and fill it with water and you will soon have birds coming into your yard to water and wash.
You can also make feeder trays to further attract birds to your yard.
Very relaxing sitting in the yard with birds feeding and chirping away.
Frank
I find to attract "birds" lots of money and nice cars never fails.😉
Great idea mate.
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1 hour ago, Smobaby said:
If there is nothing wrong withe the boat or engine just bite the bullet and modify the transom to suit the motor shaft length problem solved , boat will run like it should have from day 1. WTf was the dealer trying to scam with that set up, hope you go the boat for a good price. You will have an even higher transom to stop possible water intrusion, take the foil off and enjoy. If you get stuck with any modification PM me I have a fab shop.
Cheers.
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1 hour ago, noelm said:
22" will make sense then, the ID label does indicate a standard long, but, who knows what happened 11 years ago, if you take the 2" off, it would be pretty close...but not perfect, I might do some digging and see what I can ferret out.
Ok,cheers mate.Maybe pm me as I'm sure people are sick of this post.
1 hour ago, wrxhoon1 said:I don't know if they had the CV in 22.5" but they definitely had Enduro 40 hp . They also had some in that HP range with 21.7" or 21.9" . CV stands for customer value , Enduro was more commercial grade.
Third option and much more expensive, is to repower with a 4 stroke with 20" shaft. It is not a bad option if you use the boat a lot and provided you can buy a new engine. You will get good money selling your old one as well.
I've thought about repowering 4 stroke option and even e-tec option many times and i always come to the conclusion I've got rocks in my head wasting thousands of $$$ (8 k plus) on purchase,servicing etc when there is nothing wrong with mine(It's nearly brand new condition) and costs bugger all to run and maintain.
My boat doesn't get used much mate.
I'd rather have a 2 stroke laying idle than a fourstroke.
The idea of it all doesn't make financial sense to me.
I reckon my outboard will outlive civilisation itself.🤣😊
Like I've said I've had many scenarios going through my head over the years including buying a brand new boat and for the use I get from boat ownership and financially when I weigh it all up WE LIKE OUR LITTLE QUINNY.It's been a great boat for our needs.
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4 hours ago, frankS said:
Fab and noel. So how much does the transom need to be raised so the motor fits properly 3 " or 4" ? or what .
It is pretty simple to cut a chunk of 3" or 4" x 1 1/2" rhs alloy section to the shape of the transom and weld it in place. And if it comes up short place lengths of flat on top to make up the distance. Would be good to get it right the first time instead of adding bits and pieces on to make up height.
I will leave it up to you 2 to sort that part out.
Also Fab, could you take a photo of inside the transom where the support brace is . I would like to make a additional support brace to accommodate the extra height of the transom as I feel the smallish support that is present is too low and not really supporting much at all.
Frank
Here you go mate.
3 hours ago, wrxhoon1 said:Looks like you may have a 22.5" shaft engine. Is it a 2 stroke Enduro? Some of them came with 22.5" shafts.
As others have suggested you have 2 options, jack plate or weld an extension on the top of the transom and cross brace it on the inside.
As the boat was bought after January 2011 you are covered by consumer warranty ( if you choose to go down that road). It states the good must be fit for the purpose and last a reasonable time . Clearly it is not fit for the purpose as it is a planning hull the 3" bellow the bottom of the hull creates a lot of drag .
If you want to fight it ( provided the dealer is still in business) call fair trading and they will advice you what to do.
I would take them on but that's me, I understand if you just want it fixed and put it down to experience .
Good luck with whatever you decide to do .
Can you measure the shaft length of your engine, would be interesting to know what engine you have.
To do that run your tape from the anti ventilation plate ( or cavitation plate if that's what you call it) to under that mounting bracket.
It's a 30cv.Looks the same as an enduro to me.Don't know if the difference is just different cowlings.
I measured 22" roughly just then.
I'll cop it on the chin this time for over looking it in the first place mate and not having time or energy to deal with it due to the usual work,sick family etc.
3 hours ago, kingie chaser said:Thats what I was suggesting as well.
To know the motor specs you just need the model/serial number & look it up on the net, fairly easy.
Here you go.According to my understanding I have a 2009 model longshaft.
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4 hours ago, noelm said:
Yeah sorry, 20mm is not 2", my tiny mind is going round in circles, things like this bug me....
We have alot in common mate.I'm a stubborn bas#$%d too and will not give up without a solution when doing anything until I'm happy.
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16 minutes ago, noelm said:
I have been thinking about this half the night, something doesn't add up, the transom measures 19", which is right for a standard 20" long shaft...right so far? yet even with the motor lifted 20mm with that spacer, the cav plate is 3" below the bottom...once again, right? Now back to the 5" motor increments, doesn't that add up to, if the motor was sitting right on the transom top, (no spacer) the cav plate would then be another 20mm deeper (almost 2") meaning a 15" motor should be perfect? Something seems quite strange somehow, yet there is a picture of the tape measure clearly showing (near enough) 19". Was the tape in the centre of the transom, where the motor is, and hooked on the top (not including the spacer) and run straight down to the bottom? I am not questioning anyone's thoughts/pictures or anything else here, but "something" seems odd. I have been in the industry on and off for decades and something seems amiss, what that is seems to not make sense, but then, maybe I am confusing myself...I often do!
edit....I just looked at the pictures again, and they clearly show the tape on top of the transom, in the centre, under the spacer....damn!
Yes,the transom height is exactly 19 inches from the top of the transom (underneath the spacer) to the bottom of the hull (flat part not including planing strakes).
Yes, even with the added height of the 20mm spacer from the flat part of the bottom of the hull to the cav plate is 3 inches.
If the motor was sitting on the bare transom ( no 20 mm spacer) the motors cavitation plate would be roughly 3 and 3/4 inches below the flat part of the bottom of the hull not another 2 inches.19 mm is roughly 3/4 of an inch.
I can assure you all measurements are in the centre and spot on.
My brain is aching and I need to get some sleep as I have work tonight.
Thanks for trying to help mate.
My brain is thinking about it to don't you worry.
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30 minutes ago, motiondave said:
As Zoran and others have suggested, get a jack plate or go buy some 10mm thick aluminium angle and Make something up. If your mate has sane set up but his motor a tad higher and it's Cavitation, that's a concern. A cheapo jackplate will allow you to get just the right height. There are some Motors on some hulls that like to be a bit deeper in the water..
My motor is about 1" below and while it's been suggested I lift it, I'm not, as it near Cavitation with not much tilt .
I'm weighing up options mate.I can make one out of ally easily enough but don't really like the idea of diy jack plate or store bought.I'm fairly confident if I keep my boat I'll go the full transom extension welded on route.
Thanks for your input mate.
27 minutes ago, frankS said:Fab. I can weld a transom extension on the boat to make it a long shaft if you want to go down that path.
OR any fabrication workshop could do the job.
And while I ( or workshop ) is doing the job also have a new reinforcing arm welded in to aid strength to transom.
Frank
I'm leaning towards what your saying mate.Thank you for the kind offer.I don't know if I like the idea of a diy jack plate or store bought one even though they will both do the job.
I'll keep you in mind and if I go ahead with the transom extension route I'll give you the work if you still want it.
Cheers mate.
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6 minutes ago, noelm said:
My crabbing tinny is only about 4-5 years old, kept under cover and it looks twice its age! but then, crabbing is "hard" on boats, constant traps hitting the side, mud everywhere, rotten bait, it takes its toll.
Yeah, I can imagine.I manage to keep my empty hooks away from my hull when I wind in.😉
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1 hour ago, noelm said:
It happens, agreed the dealer "should" have installed it right, but, looking at the pictures, they really had little option, raising it to the max would have been preferable, but it's all history now. You saying it's 11 years old? looks like it just left the showroom!
Yep, 11 yrs old in March.March 2011 vintage.I look after my stuff as best as I can..A few blokes have said at the ramp when it was 6-7 yrs old did I just buy it.
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46 minutes ago, noelm said:
It happens, agreed the dealer "should" have installed it right, but, looking at the pictures, they really had little option, raising it to the max would have been preferable, but it's all history now. You saying it's 11 years old? looks like it just left the showroom!
If was fitting the outboard for customer I'd say look, to fit this motor "correctly" I need to weld a 3 inch ally box section across the transom so that the motors at the right height and will cost you an extra $200 on top of the purchase price.That's an example.
There is no excuse ever mate.
These people should know what they are doing and they are exact like most trades people these days.....THEY DO WHATEVER IS EASIER FOR THEM AND IT'S SEE YOU LATER.I know how the game is played as I've been around.
40 minutes ago, noelm said:Just to kind of add something here about motor installations, a friend of mine has the same boat as me, same motor, all bought from the same dealer, but....my motor is mounted a full hole higher than his, my boat is OK, his cavitates (ventilates actually) if he lifts his motor to the same as mine, go figure! I doubt the motors are different, I think it's just a slight difference in the hulls, one must be slightly higher/lower/twisted/crooked/welded wrong somehow, that's why all this is trial and error.
That's odd.Maybe his boats a banana.
39 minutes ago, zmk1962 said:…. And I bet there’s not a fish scale in it !
On a serious note though- sorry to hear of your troubles mate. The undesirable/unpredictable foil behavior was what I was trying to warn you of previously. Anyway there are outboard jacking plates available which you may want to explore. They bolt into the existing holes on transom and the bigger ones can go to decent HP rating.
cheers ZoranNo fish scales mate.That bloody Yowie takes the lot!!!😂🤣
Plenty of mummified bait only.I know you did warn but that's due to the motor sitting to low acting like a scoop I'm almost certain.
I know 7 people with either oz hydrofoil or permatrims(Difference is the trailing edges between the 2.One has a straught edge the other is curved).
They have boats ranging from tinnies to hefty glass boats with different hp and they all have seen quicker planing at slower speeds,better handling,fuel consumption etc.I'm assuming there cave plates are at the right height though.
26 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:🤣😂
If there was it was it would only be from the bait..............................................& thats according to Fab himself 😅
Hope you get it sorted @Fab1
Like I told Z it's mummified bait I haven't been out for sooooooo long.
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2 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:
Yep, you would think that people who have a professional licenced business would BUT then again the would is full of cowboys who dont care as long as the see the colur of your money & rub their hands together.
Imo you could go back to where you bought it & tell them you sold me something that was not fit for purpose & they should fix it without charge!
If I go back there they will have a yamaha outboard embedded in their forehead.Better not.
Unfortunately the days of alot of businesses genuinely caring and ensuring thorough jobs are done are becoming extinct.If only I had of known at the time.I can't believe I've overlooked it all this time mate.
Kicking myself.
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24 minutes ago, Bryant fish said:
Hey mate I think you need to take it to a mechanic you trust to have a look surely your usual bloke would have noticed if it was wrong shaft size
They didn't notice mate as I don't have a usual bloke.My boat has not been touched by anyone except me since it was bought new.And no I didn't notice either.
I would of thought the idiots that sold me the boat would put it in the right place.My fault for not checking and giving it to them.
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2 minutes ago, noelm said:
Alloy hulls are different to a glass hull, that little keel does cause problems at times, but they are nearly all made that way, it might be time for a test run and look over the back to see how deep the foil is, then raise the motor as much as you can without any mods and test again to see if it improves at all before doing major surgery, you may not need the full 3".
My thoughts too.But I'm not prepared to unbolt the motor and rely solely on those useless clamps to stop the outboard from taking a swim to test the theory.I'll either leave it how it is or get say a 2inch square tubing welded in from the get go and refit outboard (bolted and clamped on) and seal redundant holes.
I'll have a good look next time I'm out before I do anything either way.
Thanks for trying to help mate.Really appreciated.
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Just now, noelm said:
Sorry, motors are measured in 5" increments 15" short shaft, 20" standard long shaft, 25" extra long and 30" ultra long, why 5" is anyone's guess. Transom sure looks like a long shaft by the tape. You might have to just raise it so the bolts are at the minimum safe distance from the top and put up with it?
To raise it I'll need to weld in a 3 inch ally box section and re-drill new mounting holes.Probably plug old holes as raising outboard they become redundant.
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2 minutes ago, noelm said:
Not the bolts you can see, the screw handle things on the inside of the boat, I guess your motor has them? you know those little gizmos you screw in to clamp the motor on? As it stands, that spacer serves no purpose at all, its just pop riveted on to look good, there is no strength there, and it's not needed, leaving a gap there is exactly the same.
1 and 1/4 inches from the centre of them to the top edge of transom.
If I lift outboard up 3 inches as it stands they will grip thin air.
Sistema Brilliance Lunchboxes
in The Bar
Posted
If the gulps get dehydrated you can rehydrate them easily enough.
I did to some shriveled mummified ones I had.