zmk1962

Great addition to this topic. Thanks @dunc333! My original 220L marine alloy tank lasted 21yrs before it got the cheesecloth perforations that rendered it unfixable. I installed the replacement 250L tank in 2013. The tank sits in a fibreglass well, no electrolysis or galvanic corrosion, but does get occasional salt and fresh water seeping around it. You just have to stay vigilant and then choose the repair method that best suits - replace, repair etc. BOAT - bring out another thousand! Cheers Zoran

Hull 1992, I purchased the rig in 1996, installed the 200 EFI Merc new in 1999. Thanks for comment re boat - its in a different league to yours but does everything I ask of it. Yes, hardtop is custom - It's made a huge difference to comfort and seaworthiness. I am semi retired so weekdays are the go for me unless I can't raise a crew then its weekends. I'm seriously considering a 4st upgrade now (Maria has already said yes) ... if I do that my sums are saying I'll have nearly 2x range so would be great to tag along, until then Brown's is my firm limit ... will definitely PM before my next sesh out wide. Thanks. When out I sit on VHF 16, BARRYCUDA or SY404 (Sierra Yankee 404) .. that's me ! Cheers Z

Mate. You more than delivered on that request- Uber Welster! hoping for some action tomorrow. cheers Z

Mate. That’s a great catch and knowing you I’m sure you followed covid protocol. Why the hesitation? Maria and I are packed for a flattie food sesh tomorrow. cheers Z

😳 freakin fabulous fish ! Congrats cheers Zoran

so am I mate ... "as long as people follow all other advice in relation to social distancing and gatherings of two or more people." ... which means if you don't live together keep 1.5m apart. Thats why there is no footy, boxing, wrestling, ... no contact sports....

... because you can have 2 people gathered 1.5m apart ...it happens at the supermarket register, at the post office, at bunnings, at the chemist ..... 2 people gathering does not mean 2 people "hugging", "wrestling", "dancing" etc... .. many ways to look at it ... but i think it falls into essential services ... makes me want to take my hat off to the "essential service workers" who have NO CHOICE but to get close - to do their job .... we on the other hand all have a choice.. ... imagine the copper going home at night to his wife and kids and wondering if he brought the bl**dy virus home ... They know they a re not superhuman .... you can choose to view them as privileged or just as people on the front line. Again - your choice. Cheers Z

I think most of us got the DPI newsletter - it was also posted by @kingie chaser in another topic: The news letter is crystal clear - "NSW Police advised that recreational fishing is permitted, as long as people follow all other advice in relation to social distancing and gatherings of two or more people." So fishing as an exercise does NOT override any social distancing requirements. Infact just look at any of the other exercise sports that have been stopped - eg any contact sport - NRL etc. Exercise itself does NOT allow you to override the social distancing measures. The message is if you can implement social distancing within the sport then you are compliant. Two people that do NOT co-habitate must keep 1.5m apart. There are many types of fishing where this is not an issue - eg beach, rock, spear fishing etc... as long as you don't use the same transport to get there ! Similarly, my wife and I live and sleep together. We are ok to fish alongside anywhere or in any size vessel - but If I wanted to go out with my mate I'd better have a vessel large enough to ensure 1.5m distance and we'd better not arrive in the same car. At the boat ramp, carpark, servo - implement social distancing. To me its pretty clear. Cheers Zoran

Oh man! When it rains it pours - you’ve been through the wars mate. As Yowie said - lots of memories will remain (you will never forget that loose wire!) I feel it’s these stories and experiences that enrich our lives - you can definitely say “I have lived”. BTW awesome comeback with that catch. And congrats on the garden and home renos. Looking good. Cheers Zoran

Yup... Thats NOT the stuff I used. Thats the kit with fibreglass cloth and epoxy. Cheers Z

Mate, it helps if you post the link where you copied that information from. Permatex offers two solutions, one is the epoxy putty stick (that I used), the other is a kit which comprises of fibreglass cloth, and the permatex epoxy that you paint over it. So I am not sure if you are referencing the data for the kit or the stick. Here is what is listed for the epoxy stick: Product Details Permatex Fuel Tank Repair is a new, industrial strength formulation that is highly resistant to ethanol that is found in many fuel types. Use to make permanent repairs on fuel tanks and gas cans. No tank removal required. Instructions: 1. To achieve optimum adhesion, clean grease or dirt off surfaces to be repaired. 2. Wearing gloves twist or cut off required amount. 3. Mix by kneading epoxy stick to a uniform color. If mixing is difficult, warm epoxy stick to room temperature or slightly above. 4. Apply to the repair surface within 30 minutes of mixing, forcing into any cracks or holes to be filled. Remove excess material with a tool moistened with clean water before hardening begins. NOTE: When applying to a damp, wet or slowly leaking area, work the mixed epoxy into the surface and apply pressure until adhesion begins to take effect. Fuel Tank Repair epoxy sets in 1 hour, can be machined in 5 hours, and fully cures in 24 hours. Does not adhere to polyethylene or polypropylene plastics. This material is not intended for structural bonding. https://www.autobarn.com.au/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-stick And at the Permatex site as well: No reference to any restriction to just automobile use. https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair/ Cheers Z

Thanks @kingfishbig. Floor comes up pretty easy (its half a dozen stainless screws). Handling or even transporting a metal fuel tank that measures 2300x545x195mm is not easy especially when it is still full of fuel. Further up in the post I have pretty well explained the reason why I did not go down the weld repair path. The product I used was specifically designed and sold for permanent metal fuel tank repairs - it is not like the metal epoxy you may be familiar with - the Permatex fuel tank repair bonds to metal still wet with gasoline/fuel. It's sold as a permanent fix - not a temporary measure. I posted details here so that other's may be aware of this option in case they have a similar issue. However, if you have had specific experience where this product has failed then please share - my neighbour has used it on his farm and only had positive things to say - but if you know of other experiences please tell. Otherwise we each have to make up our own mind as to how best make repair with the options we have at hand. Cheers Zoran

Haines Hunter 635L. White with red and ally pod. Ok WPH very close. I’m in Castle Hill and walk past a similar boat to yours in Glenhaven. cheers Z

Excellent report and photos- well done. cheers Zoran

That’s a thumper tailor - would have pulled like a freight train ! great report. cheers Zoran

Beautiful rig! Pod mounted like mine. Looks familiar- I have walked past one in my area! I launch from Melrose if fishing longy or Sydney reefs. Otherwise use too much fuel just getting to heads and back - still running a 2st banger. I used 135L on last trip to Browns/12mile - hmmm may be time to get the calculator out. cheers Zoran

I think we all do it once. Twin bogies, 12ft height = semi with dog trailer- thank you very much$$$$ cheers Zoran

Awesome progress Frank. Well done. cheers Zoran

Pretty sure I gave you a like and a wow 12months ago. Just like I did again. They are smashing catches. But maybe this year I also have a greater appreciation of the whiskas ! cheers Zoran

Bit late to this one @DerekD. Pretty sure I have had these stainless Surecatch 11in pliers for over 10yrs. Fully working today and they probably set me back $20. It's kind of counter intuitive, but the thing to remember with stainless steel is that the CLEANER you keep it the less rust will form. So if you want no rust apply MINIMUM lubricant to just the pivot joint, and keep any lubricant or protective coating off everything else. This is to do with the chemistry and molecular structure at the surface level. Stainless Steel by definition has at least 10% chromium, the rest of the alloy is mostly steel (iron) with traces of other metals. The shiny surface of ss steel is actually Chromium rust (chromium trioxide CrO3) which forms as a thin layer every time you scrape the surface. The molecular structure of Cr03 prevents any further Oxygen atom penetrating and attaching to the surrounding iron atoms to form rust. However, if CrO3 can't be formed, say at an edge, where the plastic handle meets the ss steel, or oil or crap covers part of the surface, than at that edge we only have Cr02 and surrounding iron atoms are exposed and form the rust you see. So the best way to keep your ss steel rust free is to keep it absolutely spotless clean. Think of your ss cutlery in the dishwasher. You only get rust stains on the ones that have bits of unwashed crap. The unwashed crap is acting as a protective coating preventing full CrO3 formation at the surface. My pliers above, get washed in fresh water and are left to dry. I am not as diligent as I should be with the jaw area and this usually has so fish slime crap ... hence the rust. I do occasionally squirt some inox to lubricate the pivot. There is very little you can do to prevent the rust at the handle edge - but you have probably seen that rust line on your favourite knives as well where the plastic handle joins the blade. I have a stainless steel bimini frame. I get rust stains forming where folks have been holding on - especially if they have had suntan lotion on their hands. Quick wipe with soapy water removes the oil film, and stainless wool re-exposes the Chromium to oxygen and all is good. Anyway, hope that helps. Cheers Zoran

I’m spending Easter at home with these Muppets

Hey Raiders, I posted this in another topic, but think it's worth its own space. There is a fairly easy method to test if the fuel you purchased or the fuel in your tank has ethanol: 1. Get a small clear petrol resistant container with a lid eg small clear bottle. Something narrow like one of those condiment bottles is easiest to work with. 2. Put a small amount of pure water in the container and mark the top of the liquid with a line on the outside of the container. 3. Fill the container near to the top with the fuel. Close the container and shake then leave it to sit until the fuel and water separate into different layers. 4. If the water level is higher than the mark you made previously on the side of the container than the fuel contains ethanol. This works because of what ethanol is: The Ethanol molecule has two sides. One side is organic (carbons and hydrogen atoms and this side allows it to mix into oils and fuels, because thats what oils and distillates are - varying length Carbon and Hydrogen chains). The other side of the molecule is basically an Oxygen and Hydrogen atom. This Hydroxyl OH side likes to mix with Water as water (H2O) is basically Hydrogen and Oxygen. This side is more polar than the organic side and hence the ethanol molecule prefers to mix into water, rather then in the fuel. The little bit of water you first added in the container draws out the ethanol from the fuel mixture...and you would see that as increased volume of water in your test. Unless you are as diligent as @Fab1, rarely do people empty or use all of their boat tank fuel. Often the fuel in the tank sits around for some time. In the tank, any water condensation draws out the ethanol and it starts to form a water/ethanol mixture which over time breaks down into basically vinegar (acetic acid). This is the corrosive part that can eat into copper/brass/ally carburettor and other components unless they were designed to cope with that. Cheers Zoran

Awesome stuff ! Well done to you all. Lifetime memories there. Cheers Zoran

@JimC, There is a fairly easy method to test if the fuel you purchased has ethanol: I have moved the bulk of the original post here to its own topic so that it's easier to reference: Having said that, I still think from what you described you may have 2 issues going on. 1. the fuel you are being sold unaware may be ethanol mix - explains the white grainy stuff. Use the above test to check what the servo is giving you, or what is in your tank now. 2. if the boat is unused for a long time, the fuel in the carbies is drying out, leaving a gunky organic resin that is also blocking the carbie passages. Disconnect the fuel line and run the motor until it stalls (ie run carbies dry). Or as @Fab1 does ... start her regularly especially in hot weather. Cheers Zoran