dmck

What type of circuit tester are you using??? It DOES make a difference as to how we interpret your test results.

I had identical problem on my first outboard. The solenoid was separate from the starter and occasionally would not make the internal connections/contacts. I could not get a replacement as it was an obscure swedish brand Archemedes Penta (later bought out by Volvo and sold as a Volvo Penta o/b) I ended up dismantling the solenoid and adjusting the very simple internals, then reassembling. Never had another problem. Yours could be the leads.... so take the easy way and check them first.

JARRETT 10/5/1:1 winches are very easy to convert to electric by adding a starter motor and you dont lose the ability to manually wind it on.

'Cramp Eze' tablets/capsules at the time of the cramps, a magnesium tablet every morning.... up to 3 if I know I'm going to have an extra heavy exercise session. I used to get a lot of night cramps and always had the cramp-eze handy (still do) but get a lot less since the morning Mg (thats science... you know?) tablet.

Hi tech!

I had over a dozen pin-holes in my old 10 foot tinny. If you stood it on the transom, keel toward the sun you could see them all from the inside. A little clean with meths and a scourer and a dob of plasatbond... and all good. I used a mates 14ft tinny for over 5 years... with a twig pushed into a hole in the bottom.... A small amount of water overnight could just be condensation?

.... wish I was close to 60.... instead of long past it.........😢

SA bag limit is 5 per person, 15 per boat 38-60cm. minimum size 38cm Over 60cm, 1 per person 3 per boat. THis has been in place for several years already.

Correct. You could use any single pole battery switch (single pole = 1 wire, simple on/off)

point taken..... We SA fishers believe the Vic govt actually understand fisheries management AND the value to the economy of rec fishing in general. Please invade us and take control....

Get a competent boat/auto sparky to fit it for you !! I'd have to go back through old posts to find the brand, but one of the manufacturers recommends a wiring install that is downright dangerous. It their 'preferred' wiring it is impossible to totally isolate a faulty battery and run the electronics + motor on the remaining one. Its only a simple reconfig to make it safe. I emailed the manufacturer with my concern and they replied saying my wiring was OK but they preferred theirs.... I reckon they are too frightened to admit their setup could cause serious trouble. btw... that setup can be easily simulated with 3 simple battery isolator switches and a VSR, you just dont get the pretty colours and labels. this style of switch.... https://www.a shop.com.au/p/bep-battery-switch-275a/116409.html

As a keen SA snapper fisher, I can tell you from personal experience that snapper numbers are WAY WAY down.... and I dont fish Gulf St Vincent. Where I would get 4-5 reasonable snapper around 45cm (and a fair bit of quality by-catch) fairly easily on my irregular outings (6 times a year?) , the last 2 years have 4 total! The last time I went about 2 months age, no snapper and no bycatch for around 6 hrs on the water-- didnt even lose a bait to a fish. I think 'threatened' IS the correct word to use.

Thanks Zoran, interesting reading. THe latest vehicles, especially relevant in 4WD, actually reduce the charge voltage as the vehicle electronics sense the battery is nearly charged. Reduction can be to the point where the VSR will not activate to charge the second battery. I dont know if the new outboards have adopted this yet... if they have it will cause a problem for very many dual battery configurations. DC/DC chargers seem to be the only safe way to overcome the issue.

Noel... stop bringing facts and logic in to this ebate! This is too serious for that !!!!!

As a South Australian snapper rec fisho I assure you that there are Lies, Damn Lies then Statistics.....

THis was in another thread. It is perfect for your use... compliments to Zoran. Whether you use a VSR or manually switch is really up to you and will depend upon how long you travel over the water. I use this wiring with out a VSR, but I 'float' both batteries (battery switch to OFF) on separate C-Tec chargers when the boat is in the shed. In lieu of PORT and STarboard batteries, think Main and Aux

Supplementary question... do your radios/instruments that appear to work OK still work when the battery switch is turned off? ie do they bypass the battery switch?

Zoran's post is very well analysed and well explained. Is your AM/FM radio power wiring wired back to the fuse block/bus bar? both the +ve (red to a fuse) and black (-ve to the -ve bus bar screw terminals? Does the radio wiring go through a switch? if so where does the -ve black wire route? Have you tried starting the motor (or at least kicking it over) from 1, 2, both since the rewire?