dmck

1 litre molasses dissolved in 10 litres water makes a VERY GOOD rust remover. .... slow but takes it baxk to base metal

Have never tried salting them. Tried freezing and they turn to a paste. Does salting really toughen them up? do you then freeze the salted ones (I freeze salted pilchards and it works well) Are they still good bait when salted? appreciate your advice, thanks, dmck

SMoked, they are amongst the best to eat. Big ones we smoke, small ones are great snapper bait

Knowledge is only useful if you share it.

"Reverse Polarity & Overvoltage Protection - Shunt diode and voltage regulator." typically a shunt diode will be connected across the + & - leads at the point they connect to the radios circuit board. They are not conducting under correct voltage connection but are conducting (virtually a short circuit) if the wiring is reversed... hence the radio fuse blows. If you have only a heavy duty fuse protecting the radio, there is a good bet that the surge in current has burnt out some of the copper track on the radio circuit board. Fuses should be the MINIMUM value that allows the device to operate correctly. ..... and...... every device should be fused separately... you dont want to lose your important electronics (radio/GPS/FF etc ) just because one of them develops a fault. Ignore the basic rules and you will eventually get caught out.

Anything after a Gen 2 can share the Map/chart. Gen 1 will share everything BUT the chart. Use NMEA2000... AND... ethernet. Can also link it to a Simrad NSS Evo2 or better. I have a HDS7 Gen-1 linked to a NSS-Evo-2 and all I dont get is the chart sharing. You may pick up a Gen2/Evo2 at a reasonable price by shopping around.

Check that the GME has all the safety features of the other brands. I dont believe the newest models have DSC

Ah.. the truth ALWAYS gets a response....... good on you for sticking up for yourself... Your wounds will heal eventually......

.... Nah..... dont believe you.....

SO... ask why she has so many shoes/dresses/jewellery/lipsticks/perfumes when she isnt trying to attract a mate anymore.......... or is she? PS make sure your health insurance is up to date first....

get samples of outdoor blind material, many 'blind' stores carry them so customers can check colours. They appear to be ideal for drag washers and cut easily with scissors.

use a 20:1 mix of water and molasses. We use it to remove rust when restoring vintage cars. Soak for a week, wash thoroughly, dry ASAP and regrease/oil IMMEDIATELY... or you can watch the rust grow. Seriously! Acetic acid will do too... if you can buy it... I guess thats the vinegar bit mentioned previously..

You can buy a carbon fibre sheet and cut your own. I cant remember where I bought mine but it wasnt too dear.

Molasses mixed with water 10 parts water, 1 part molasses (mixed very well) makes a cheap, very effective and very slow rust remover. Buff off as much as you can with a wire buff then soak for up tp 2 weeks. It will remove rust back to pristine steel. Was well and paint/oil/whatever VERY quickly or you will see the rust growing back as you hold the item. Another alternative is acetic acid, comes a s a white powder that you mix with water, the more powder the stringer the acid the faster the rust removal. Again, once removed treat the surfaces quickly.

My FF and Chart plotter both have inbuilt volt meters and low-volt alarms can be set. The more you complicate things, the harder it is to fault find. How far do you want to go? Serious battery systems monitor battery temperature too...... Is it really worth the $$ and confusion to understand what MAY be happening... Zoran has nailed it, Charge voltage and 'standing voltage'.

I've just been going through this in SA. I will copy a .JPG image of the doc in to my FF....

Just finished cutting out rust from very difficult positions, on my 69 Mustang. The dremel with the 25 (?) mm cutting discs were the only thing I could get in there. MIne is electric and sometimes the cord gets in the way..... You will never regret getting one.

Those style winches are very easy to add a starter motor to. Ford starter approx $80 new 10 inch flex plate approx $45 from a wrecker. motor bike brake light switch $8-$120 depending on where you choose to buy !! 6mm Steel plate approx $25 2 x 175Amp andersen connectors price depends on where you buy. sufficient heavy wire to run + and - from your battery battery switch approx $10.00 misc mounting bolts and nuts some drilling, filing and welding required approx 4-6 hours depending on your skill level. manual function is not affected PM me if you want details. Steep ramps will never be a problem again, neither will beach retrieves. heavy boats retrieved in around 45 sec max.

If you look up under the tilt mechanism you will find that the 2 sides are connected by a tube and 2 split pins. The "axle" pins (1 on each) have nylon bush/bearings through the tilt cradle. You can disconnect the tilt ram to get at the split pins to remove them, then as you get some movement in the levers work them out. Replace the bushes if necessary, clean the holes, clean the corrosion off the axle, plenty of marine greas and re assemble. I too would love to help... so if you wish to tow it to Adelaide.....🤣

If you are a bit of a handyman it is not difficult to mount a starter motor to drive a manual winch. I have done about 8, usually Jarrett winches. THe mod still leavers the manual winding option untouched. THese will pull up a 20+ ft fibre glass boat with no difficulty---- and damned quick too. Very good for beach retrieves. As I'm in Adelaide I cant make you one... but happy to explain it all. A small commercial one will likely be cheaper. Be careful of wireless remote controls..... they have a tendancy to get wet when you forget they are in your pocket.!! Its very simple to arrange a cord down either side of the boat to activate the winch.

I retro fitted brakes to my last boat/trailer. It wasnt hard, just slow. Being a bit of a DIY'er hand having a mate who can weld (better then me) helped. I took the opportunity to do some other trailer maintenance at the same time. Cable operated are the simplest. If you have to fit electric brakes with a break-away unit its even slower and more expensive (fitting the controller to the car is tedious...)

try washing it with a solution of vinegar, then painting it with an etch paint. Painting with a decent paint then also stops the little corrosion points you get from dropping sinkers, hooks, swivels, alfoil etc

You could try undoing the wheel end and pouring some diesel down the tube. This acts as a lubricant and will do a bit of rust removal. Once it's free lubricate it bi-annually with a light machine oil or auto transmission fluid. I mad up a jig to force oil through under air pressure (compressor). I did the same for my throttle/gear cables. Never had another problem with cables. ( first time my steering froze was at the end of a long drive and we were determined to get on the water... used tuna oil and brute force...)

very interesting!! Can you post the link to this pleasr? I goggled for it but couldnt find it.

I've done just this 4 or 5 times with different boats. Its easy.... even easier if your trailer has an electric winch