dmck

Any progress with this?

" Lucky You... such beautiful scenery..." No heroics... fire doesnt often give you a second chance. If in doubt -get out! Good luck.

Have done Adelaide to Perth (INdian Pacific) Cairns-Brisbane-Sydney-Melbourne-Adelaide (4 different trains.) About to do Adelaide-Melbourne-Adelaide on Overland, just coz the service is ceasing soon Booked on the GHan Adelaide -Darwin in June and looking to complete the Sydney-Adelaide leg of Indian Pacific in next year. Have also travelled extensively 4WD trips.. used to work for a mining company. Love the 4WD and train travel... oh and cruises..... Age and retirement does have some benefits!!

iGNORING THE RELAY COILS, the switch is a 'change over' contact.. IN the off position of the tilt switch both leads to the motor are connected to -ve (earth) When you operate the UP switch the LH contacts (UP relay) operate and connect 12 v +ve to the blue lead, the motor operates to tilt up. When you release the tilt switch the LH contacts release and the blue wire is connected back to -ve earth. When you operate the DOWN switch, the RH contacts operate, connecting the Green wire to 12 volt +ve and the motor operates to tilt down. Looking at the relay contact lugs on the bottom and a diagram to show the internal connections: Pin 30 will go to the tilt motor Pin 87A will go to -ve earth Pin 87 will go to 12 volt +ve 85 and 86 are the relay coil (electro-magnet) terminals AS you have swapped the relays over and the problem persists, we assume the relays are good. It is possible that the 12v +ve is missing from pin 87. Check the socket with your volt meter. (fuse?) TAKE CARE... the socket for pin 87 is HOT and may not be fused!! If this test is OK it is the wiring to operate the relay. This could be faulty connectors 85 and/or 86 in the socket itself. Check the voltages on the good relay socket 85/86 and compare to the faulty. Operate the tilt switch too and compare on these terminals. What we dont yet know is if the tilt switch switches +ve or -ve toward the relay coil (85/86) Hope this all helps.

I forgot to ask, do the relays have 4 or 5 terminals?

NOTE WELL: for the motor to tilt (up or down) BOTH relays MUST be plugged in. You may have done all of the following, but please do these tests in order. and report the result at each stage. Put the wiring back to stock standard. Using ONLY the tilt switch on the motor (NOT the one on the remote control)..... If you activate the tilt-up does the relay 'click' ? From your last post I'm assuming NO If you activate the tilt down can you hear the relay click ? and does the motor tilt down? Can you identify which relay is clicking so that you can identify which is for up and which is for down? if so mark the relay cover AND the relay socket so that you dont have to remember later. Identify the wires on the back of the tilt-switch... there may be 2 or 3 How many? trace the wires from the back of the switch.... there is usually a joiner in them. Can you get to the joiners? I'm assuming there will be 3 wires, 2 will go to the relays (1 wire to each) . Using your voltmeter identify whether there is 12 volt +ve or -ve Earth on the 3rd wire. Short the 3rd wire to each (in turn) of the relay wires. This is bypassing the tilt switch. You should hear the relays click and the motor should tilt. IF 1 relay doesnt click and the motor doesnt tilt, connect your multi meter (set to measure DC volts) between the 3rd wire and each of the other 2 relay wires. THis is measuring/checking that there is a connection to the relay, through the relay to either +ve OR -ve. Both wires should measure the same. If 1 wire does not show a connection (to either + or -) note which wire is suspect, swap the relays and retest the wires. Is the same wire 'faulty' or has it swapped to the other wire. MOre to follow.... but enuff for you to go on with.....

Somewhere between 13 and 14.5 volts. Have you checked with your dealer that the Yam is suitable to use a VSR ? THe electronics in most of the new cars and I'm guessing the new outboards are smart enough to recognise when the battery (they assume only 1) is charged the actually drop the alternator voltage so that the battery doesnt overcharge. THis new voltage is often below the threshold voltage needed to operate the VSR. THis is why most new 4WD's use DC-DC chargers.

Disconnect the VSR and check what charge voltage you are getting to the start battery. If still only getting 12 volts you have a problem with your charging and MUST fix this first.

Dave, I would love to know your temporary solution. It may help diagnose the true problem.

Swap the 2 wires to the pump-motor over ON THE RELAYS. leave all other wiring standard. The down relay will now activate the 'up' wire when you push the 'down' button. If the motor lifts, you still have a relay problem. If it doesnt... you have more work to do. There are 2 ways of wiring tilt/trim motors, 1 2 only wires to the mootor. both wires are earthed through the relays in the normal (not activated) position. When you push the button to tilt/trim, that up or down relay operates and switches 12v positive on 1 of the wires. the motor now has power and operates. Switc the tilt button the other way and the other relay puts 12v + on the other wire and the motor operates in the reverse direction. 2 the tilt/trim motor has 2 windings, each connected to 1 of the relays. there is also a 3rd lead , an EARTH lead to the motor. When you operate a relay it switches in the appropriate motor winding for up or down. the relay for 1 MUST have 5 terminals.( 2 for coil and 3 for a change-over contact) The relay for 2 only needs 4 ( 2 for coil and 2 for a MAKE contact) hope this helps

If anyone on here does......... I'm on the wrong site..............

A job of satisfaction since you nutted it out and fixed it yourself. Top marks! and you now have added confidence to support others.

Ditto.... Ugly Stick, but my 2nd choice would be another Ugly Stick

Latest range of GME VHF radios do not appear to have DSC functionality. If you go any distance offshore then DSC "is a must". The UM455VHF is DSC capable (but you most likely have to connect it to your GPS- no big problem) Its a no-brainer... the Uniden!! I wouldnt be surprised if GME drop out of the marine radio market. btw I have an earlier GME VHF, the GX600D which does have DSC. Have you checked out the STANDARD Horizon GX1300E ? its cheap at Whitworths.

Knowledge is only useful if its shared. Hope what I've said DOES help.

The brushes had a flexible copper braid embedded in one end. THat braid connected to a screw terminal on the brush housing. There are many different styles of brush, thats why it is best to start with either the genuine spare parts or take the brushes to an auto electrician for him to try and find an alternative.

No. I kept the copper braid (if thats what you mean) intact. If its not what you mean I need to see pics to understand. I'm not sure soldering a new one on would be safe. I'd be frightened the solder would melt (even though its melting point is around 600 degrees celsius...)

Top effort and $550.00 in front...... and an inspiration for others to "have a go" If you cant get the exact brushes go to an auto electrician and try... I have also bought oversize ones and filed them down. NEver ever give up!

Carp have done a HUGE amount of damage to the Murrary River/Darling River system and you wouldnt wish that on any susceptible rivers... dont return them! In SA it is not permitted to return them... https://pir.sa.gov.au/biosecurity/aquatics/aquatic_pests/search_aquatic_pest_species/european_carp

I have 2 telescopics in my boat. The original thought was to use them for squid and small baitfish so they are loaded with fairly light line and very small hooks. I have landed some very good snapper on them, when the snapper come in to the baitfish... You have to play the bigger fish and use a landing net.... but these rods are not toys. From memory they are Shimanos and came as a combo with IX4000 reels (or similar) for around $35.00 about 6 years ago. THe reels are cheap but do the job in shallow water. I've been impressed with them and bought several more for other light rods. Its hard to knock them when they catch 48cm snapper in 7 metres!

All better after 4 weeks.....

I've just had another look at this video. THe presenter DOES NOT stress enough the need to extend the 'handle' of the RED flare until it LOCKS in to position. He does say he has seen the flare slide back in to the handle... which is what happened to me.. and I got burned through leather welding gloves. When the handle is extended there is a 'click' heard when the handle locks. If you can slide the flare back in to the handle you have not locked it... and you risk getting burned! Have a look at your own flares and check out how to prepare them.. If you need to use flares you are already in a stressful situation and its no time to try to read and understand the instructions!!

I have... after getting severe burns to my right index finger whilst GIVING a flare demo a couple of weeks ago. The instructions on the flares are not really that clear. A good demo video is invaluable to explain what to do IN DETAIL !!

Are we talking the 1980's... or MY 80's.... now..... where's me dentures.....

Its effing hard to analyse a problem without being there to do our own tests.... Zoran is spot on... but he is being .................................................. 'gentle'............ "to my understanding..." He knows damned well he is correct........ and he is!!