Nolongeramember

Not a bad Salmon mate. They fight well don't they? I would argue that size for size they might not pull quite as hard as a king but I reckon they fight for longer with more energy. There are massive schools around at the moment and they will be hanging around for a while. Some of them are HUGE. I got onto a few on Friday that were legal size for kingy's. Gee they pull hard at that size on light gear. A few even reefed me!

Hi. I bought a new GLoomis rod a while ago and at the time the shop owner salesman explained to me that this particular model I'm interested in is discontinued, they are no longer available and the 2 he has in stock is all he can get. After using the rod I really liked it so in case it was to be damaged or lost I went back a few weeks later and bought the other one he had in stock. Now, A few months later I've spoken to Shimano themselves and this model rod is still in production and available from them just like any other rod. I want to return the second rod I purchased as I have no need for it. If something was to happen to my first rod I can buy a replacement any time I like. I may never need the second rod. The problem is this place does not do refunds and it has been a few months. The rod is genuinely unused and still in the plastic wrapping. Do I have a case or not?

Hi mate. For gravel/sand nothing beats the sand anchor... http://bla.com.au/default/shop-online/anchoring-mooring/anchors/sand/slip-ring-sand-anchor.html

Yeah fab same mate.

Fab. Hang on a minute. You said before (with pictures) that boat trailer bearing failures are from salt water entering the hub and then rusting bearings and I think that is the number 1 reason as well. The system that I have explained I use with the bearing buddies is exactly the same and proven method every machine or whatever with a grease nipple on it uses. The old grease and grime comes out and new goes in. You are saying basically bearing buddies are no good because when you pump in grease you break the seal and water can then get in. Water gets in mine no doubt about it, but I reckon water gets in hubs without bearing buddies anyway so opening up a seal when you pump in grease is not a problem in my view. You haven't answered what I asked before that if you really believe your closed up, non bearing buddy systems are completely sealed why are you guys recommending and changing bearings every year? They should last a very, very long time (lifetime) if they are sealed and nothing gets in. Then, if they are not fully sealed where does your argument with bearing buddies go as putting in new grease can only be a good thing? If you think about it, having bearing buddies is no different to a closed hub, the only difference is that you can put in new grease to lube it and get some of the junk out that has salt in it. Anyway I think I might stay quiet on this now lol. They have worked for me so I'm happy and just use whatever method works for you I guess. Oh yeh and nothing personal at all Fab we are just discussing this

I only know from what I've seen with my own experience with bearing buddies. I pump the grease in there every few trips and the old stuff comes out the rear seal. There is no doubt that the new grease is getting inside the bearings as I've inspected them after greasing and going for a quick drive. I don't care that it blows out the seal as long as there is new grease inside. I know its not a perfect system and there will still be traces of saltwater inside but there is enough good grease to keep the bearings in good shape and last. Well mine have. I also think that any system will still get water inside it eventually anyway, and if blowing out the seal with bearing buddies is a problem and if you think other systems are completely sealed up why change the bearings every year then? They should last for a lifetime if no water gets inside considering how long car and truck bearings last and the km's they travel compared to the average boat trailer. If the killer of boat trailer bearings is rust and pitting, then if a guy inspects his bearings and they look fine and no rust even if they are years old I don't see why he needs to spend money and change them for? Just my views anyway Everyone has there own choice to what they want to run but I have proven to myself that if treated right bearings can last a long time.

Yeah for me its comfort too. When it starts getting above 10 knots in an open area things start getting more difficult and unpleasant. I'm there to enjoy myself and when the wind picks up I don't.

Paikea A big factor to how easy it is to drive onto the trailer is how well the trailer is set up to self align. Also, how far or deep you reverse into the water make a big difference. You need to find that 'sweet spot', remember that level somewhere on the trailer and reverse to there every time.

Good job mate. I love fixing up old stuff and making it useable again. My boat is so old and used to be so crappy when I bought it, but over time I have 'fixed' it up and customised it to suit my fishing and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

I like that statement.

Nah no offence at all mate u probably know more about trailer bearings than me I would say. In my case I know for a fact that my bearings get salt water on them every time I dunk it. The thing is they are in good nick and not noisy after 10 years of use. I do pump some grease in them every few trips and they always stay lubed. IMO most failures come from letting the bearings get dry.

If the original bearings look ok and they were not noisy then I would put them back in. Why not there is nothing wrong with them. I have been running the same bearings for 10 years now and they are still going well. The trick is to keep them greased. If there is grease on them I can't see how they would get rusted or fail for a very long time.

Yes it will significantly. If each line is the same strength I'd say it will be by metres.

Another way to put it is that thickness is a better indicator of strength rather than pound rating. So you don't necessarily have to go for the thinnest 10lb you can find for example as it will likely be the weakest.

Your correct but I don't know about getting tangles easier with braid. For me its less tangles and easier to manage. When mono gets a bit loose it starts coming off the spool in a big rush of loops and tangles. It doesn't cope well to any twist either. If your getting any tangles with braid when casting something is not right. You shouldn't get any.

Obviously, but what he's saying is they go they go out of their way to please a good customer. Your unlikely to get that online.

I think we are explaining the same knot only 4 turns works for you and I like 3 each side.

Just the boat. Also, don't do what I did once and forget to take off the strap before jacking it up haha.

If your not using braid your missing out. Better and further casting. Very low stretch, more feel which also means more enjoyment on a hooked fish and for various reasons, more fish overall. If your new to braid you will need to practice new knots and learn a few things best shown to you by someone experienced. No. 1 is keep your line spooled at least a millimetre under the lip on a spinner. If its light line your after try out Fireline.

Yeah you will be glad you replaced the rollers mate. Use a small jack under the boat. No need to take it fully off.

Hi mate. I've mucked around and tested knots a hell of a lot on proper scales. I've come to the conclusion that heavy fluorocarbon will give you low knot strength as its too stiff and brittle and I don't use it. I only use it up to 12lb. 60lb+ being so thick I doubt its gonna be any less visible than plain mono leader anyway. Anyway, for heavy line I found a modified half blood knot to be very good. 2 turns through the eye, 4 or 5 turns around and the end put through both loops of the first 2 turns. I've tied this no problem in line up to 150lb of leader material.

I like the full blood knot for mono to mono. 3 turns each side only! I use the knot when I fish for baits unweighted. I tie a 4lb leader onto the mono main line which is larger.

Very true this. My local gives great advice and reports which cannot be bought online. They deal with fishos coming in all day long and telling what the latest is. The general prices may be higher but if something I buy is not quite right or even if I don't like it after I used it they take it back no problem. If you buy a reel from them and you need to send it for warranty they send it for you free. They will also match legit online prices and add the price of shipping to the price which is fair enough. You support them and they get to know you, they will look after you the same. I support my local as much as possible and I reckon in the long run I'm better off.

I agree its a whole lot easier to drive on and that's what I do although there will be time when you still need a winch.