Nolongeramember

It's still possible for objects other than fish to show up as an arch. Sounders with a wide beam angle like yours will show arches more than narrow beam sounders. It's got to do with how an object travels through the beam and the distance it is from the transducer. Hopefully they will explain all this at the presentation and your right though, if something like that shows up on the screen you would generally think it looks pretty good.

Jim, the sounder will show whatever is in the water that if can bounce a signal off. Fish, jellyfish, pylons, moring ropes, rubbish, plastic bags. When you see a line on the screen that means there is "something" in the water.

Look up Cancer Council sunglasses. I bought the ones called Northcote. Sunglasses need to fit your face to be comfortable and everyone is different so see what you like.

Hi mate. You sound new to welding. Did you read over the manual and the set up instructions? I would start there. Just on welding in general, I agree with Fab. Each method has their ups and downs but for general DIY work, Arc/stick all the way.

I just bought a new pair of Cancer Council's for $40 after I sat on and broke my last pair. Very good value for money and I agree not to waste your money on an expensive pair. In terms or polarization, I don't think there is any difference between these and expensive ones. They are plastic, decent quality lenses, light to wear, look good and have rubber on the nose and arms so they don't slide around on hot sweaty days which is annoying if it happens. I really like them.

It sounds like a cylinder or more are sometimes not firing in the clips you posted. What do the spark plugs look like when you take them out? Are they brown, black, wet , dry, moisture? The only thing I can think of at idle, that's different in the water to being on ear muffs is possibly a better water flow through the engine. Could be going somewhere it shouldn't be, but you should just take it to Huett Marine to sort it out for you. Looking at your location they are not that far from you either.

Hopefully it's fixed now and all it needed was a bit of a clean.

No. Only because I think it would be awkward fishing on a jetski. If it was on a boat and the word going around was the fishing was pretty good I would for sure.

The transducer looks set up ok to me I think you may be getting electrical interference from something. The power or earth wires possibly have a shared connection to some other device which is affecting it. I would try and wire it direct to the battery or even better its own separate battery just for a test. If there is still a problem after that I would run the transducer cable on the opposite side of the boat and see if anything improves.

Well a flaw which really annoys me that I've found in all my spinning reels is the pivot on the bail arm wears and the arm becomes stiff over time even with lube. I've got some perfectly useable old reels that are unusable because of this problem. The painted coating on the pivot wears off and it's no good once this happens. They need to design it with a bush of some kind on there. It's not practical to replace the parts involved as this would be the entire rotor, the bail arm and another arm on the opposite side. Would be a good fix but maybe not a great option for a uni project I don't know. Just thought I'd have a whinge anyway hahaha.

Hey mate. If it was working fine then the shop swapped it over to the new boat and it doesn't work then they may stuffed something up. The connections could be on wrong, but then you say the depth shows up sometimes. Could be electrical interference from something on the new boat. Test it out in Demo mode. Does that show up ok? We'll see the pic of how the transducer is fitted as that is important.

Wheel nuts, lights, tow balls?! Geez. Cameras set up at boat ramps would prevent most of these thefts. They should be monitored and acted on if there is an incident as well.

Looking at the forecast, if you want to go outside tomorrow I would plan to be done and get inside by about 1pm if you want to be comfortable.

Here's a picture of what I explained earlier. Nothing gets caught anymore. The wire ends are curled to anchor them better. I felt a full mesh could possibly block up and slow the flow down too easily so went with the wire. Never tried the mesh though.

Hey Longfish that kingy is awesome. I bet you couldn't wait to put that report up

When people ask me what handed I am I don't know what to say. Here's a few examples of the weird stuff I do and I think I do most of them pretty well or above average. Write left handed. Throw a ball overarm right handed. Throw a ball underarm left handed. Serve in tennis right handed then swap and play all my shots left. Scissors right handed. Swing golf or cricket right handed. Use a knife on a chopping board left hand. General painting can use both hands equal but precision work it's left hand. Casting a rod when using 2 hands is right handed then swap and wind right hand. Casting a rod with one hand for bass/bream etc left hand and it stays there. My right arm/hand is the stronger but not by much.

Yes I've had that problem with small squid and gars going through or blocking it up. I used some galvanised tie wire I had lying around, but preferably use stainless if you have it and I siliconed 2 pieces across the opening to form a "cross" over it. It's not the most scientific or pretty but it has worked for me. I think a full mesh will restrict the flow too much and clog up easily.

I wish my boat would attract fish to it like that every time I went out haha.

I just thought of a good way to work out how deep to go. When you put the boat in, see the water level where the rear of the boat just takes the weight off but doesn't lift up. That should be pretty close.

Yep

I'll second that. The depth you reverse up to on the trailer has a massive bearing on how well (or not) the boat can be driven on. Too deep and the boat will not catch the rollers properly and too shallow is no good either. Most common mistake is reversing in too far. Maybe try with the rear most roller about 150mm under and see how it goes from there. Paikea, Check your inbox. I set you a PM yonks ago, I don't think you have read it yet.

It is disappointing as something like that can ruin your whole day. At least you got it sorted. One of the reasons I always service my own stuff.

Mate forget the rubber mallet. Get someone to put some pressure on the steering wheel, put a lump of hardwood over the end and whack it with a good lump hammer. If your not comfortable doing it maybe take it to a shop for them to do for you.

Watching is fine but it pings me off when some non boater spectator yells out advice like they know your trailer better than you lol. One time me and my mate were loading up his old boat/trailer set up after a day out fishing. We had the boat almost winched up all the way but it was slightly off centre at the rear of the trailer. I decided to put the engine in reverse and the steering at full lock to bring it over a touch. Kept the winch strap hooked on obviously. As I gradually eased the engine revs up this guy with stubbie in his hand is yelling out "mate you still got the winch hooked on" hahaha what a tool. He must had thought we were trying to launch the boat but didn't realise we just came in or have any idea what we were doing.

Another tip I have done before. After removing the cable end from the engine, I found my steering cable was jammed. I knew more than likely the problem had to be at the end near the nut as this is where salt water and junk can get in. Using a drill bit the same size as a WD-40 straw I carefully drilled a tiny hole into the outer cable covering through to the inner cable a few inches from the end. Gave it some good squirts directly into it and the cable came good as a new one. Covered up the little hole with a dot of oil resistant sealant and saved me replacing the whole cable