Nolongeramember

Haha, I was trying to figure out what that comment meant until Hawkbass' last post. Never noticed the dates.

I always make it clear on my boat that when you cast you always check behind you EVERY time for this very reason.

I used to think that the Magseal was some hi tech complicated mechanism and I was afraid to pull my reels apart. Now that I have, its just made up of a simple magnet with a fluid between it and another metal. I've pulled apart my Certate and I can tell you the fluid seals one area, but the plastic frame that holds the seals magnet (the grey plastic that says magsealed on it) is not sealed too well so water can still find its way under this and into the same area the magseal supposed to be protecting.. The mag seal makes it more difficult but water can still get in. Water can also enter these reels at the reverse switch and also under the bottom cap where it screws on. I would much prefer an old type rubber seal instead of the fluid any day. This is what the Stella's and old Saltiga's used and worked well. It is much simpler and the tiny bit of added resistance from it would not be noticeable. If anyone is interested, I have sourced some quality non Daiwa ferrofluid to refill the magseal and it has tested out good. So if you want to service your own reel there are other fluids you can use. Oh and my favourite Magseal reel is currently the 2500 Certate and It's also my favourite reel overall. It has a metal type frame and quality gears that are strong, smooth and last.

Love how you 2 chat with each other on here haha

Nicely done mate. I didn't know they took bread so well. I thought if you wanted blackfish then the bait to use is weed.

OK thanks.

I'm all for quality, just saying a bright headlight isn't always the best.

Quality is one thing, but For fishing we don't need the top of the range bright headlamp. Your better off with a dull light just enough to tie knots and rigs. Bright lights wreck your night vision and blind your fishing partner or people around you. We only need to see close up with a wide beam. I use a basic petzl tikka 2 on low setting. Suits my needs perfect and they don't stuff up.

Just want to share my recent experience with Salt Away. I have a one year old four stroke 60. Always rinsed thoroughly since new. It has 2 removable anodes on the side of the block and when removed you can see into the cooling water section. I noticed a few minor salt deposits inside recently so I thought I would give it a run through with Salt Away. I mixed the Salt Away at 3% which is double the strength they recommend. I removed the thermostat, hooked up a strong bilge pump in a tub with the Salt Away and cycled it through the engine both directions for about 10 minutes (Salt Away recommend 30 seconds). This is a much thorough method than running the engine with the thermostat installed and the deposits were still there after I was done! This is just my personal experience but it didn't work for me at all.

I'd say it would depend which way you clip it in as to which way you drive the vehicle.

My experience with Fireline over 20lb is not good. I have found a fair few reels to have very low knot strength and I wont use it anymore. Could be just the line I have came across though. Why is you mate selling brand new line for? Take some of the line and test a known knot under some scales. If its good then its good!

Hey relapse, I've found my Harimitsu's hooks too fragile. They break and snap too easy and they can also individually break their bond and 'swivel' out of place. I've been using them for a while now and like them a lot especially the colours but now I think Yamashita's are better overall because of the hook problem. Have you had any problems with yours?

Willyweather...

You didn't say how fast it was going across. Check the chart speed. The deeper you go the slower it goes and can almost stop. If that happens you need to set a faster speed. Let us know how it goes....

That looks awesome and you sound like an awesome brother- in- law as well.

Maybe you are not in an area where there are any fish? A few questions. How deep are you going? Are you getting a bottom depth number? How fast is the screen scrolling to the left? Do you know how to set the gain in manual mode?

Yes you do... Swell, even small makes you sick. Constantly going up then down over and over. Seas can make you sick too but not as much. The larger of any the more likely you will get sick.

This kind of sounds like you are not seeing any swells. Are you going outside the heads on the open ocean? Swells occur in the open ocean but may come into bays somewhat if it is travelling in those directions through the heads. You don't generally get swell in bays, rivers or lakes. A simple way to explain it is, Swell is a VERY long raised unbroken wave. It keeps travelling along and come one after another in the same direction. You cant miss it on the ocean unless its small, under 1m maybe. Sea is all the choppy water.

My guess is the Yakkas were mindful of the kings. If one of the kings were to come for them they know they can just zip off and the king would give up chasing. When the Yakka is pinned on the end of your line that's when they crap themselves as they can't get away.

Cool tat for a fisho. Love the colours, same as I do on the real fish.

Hi mate. I don't know about some of the other advice on here but I wouldn't recommend you go anywhere near the heads until you have much more experience controlling a boat. Stay inside, get experience with changing conditions and how it affects your boat. You need experience with reading forecasts, how to approach choppy water, swells, boat wakes. How much fuel your boat uses and if you have enough to return is another one. Many things can and do go wrong pretty quick while out on a boat. The open ocean is no place for a boating beginner.

Sometimes when things are slow you may only get one in an area. Giving the jig a good clean of ink and any slime is a good idea. I'd cast the same jig straight back for a while, then I may change if nothing is happening. On the boat I keep 2 rods with different jigs ready to go so I can switch anytime.

Bad luck mate. It kind of sounds like your drag is not working properly or it may be set a little too tight. The line shouldn't snap in that situation unless it is bitten off. Just ask or PM me if you need some more advice.

I've decided to upgrade the rear lights on my trailer to LED. I will be keeping the existing wiring which is fairly new and fully sealed and unbroken its entire length. What is the best way to seal the join I make to fit the new LED's at the rear? Is there any special waterproof joiners I can use or something? I want it fully waterproof and to be fuss free and last for years. Thanks for any ideas....