Nolongeramember

Hi. Your problem is the anti reverse cam. The anti reverse is not engaging enough. Either the anti reverse lever is not all the way engaged or the cam needs to be bent over to engage the anti reverse a little more. Check the lever is all the way over otherwise if you can take the reel apart it's a simple fix. Just bend the part over so it engages the anti reverse some more. Holding the end with pliers and twisting the other end is the best way. Don't go too far or it won't disengage. In the diagram below the part you need to bend is number 57. http://daiwafishing.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/LUVIAS-DA-CUSTOM-1000-3000.pdf

I've never understood these type of jigging methods. http://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/japanese-squidding-experts-show-how-it-s-done In this clip the guy jigs four quick times in a row. I don't get how any 'jig' after the first one does anything to make the jig move. If I do what he's doing, the line is slack after the first jig because the jig hasn't had time to sink.

Hahaha reading all this made me laugh. Oziodin, looks like a good solution to a common problem. Nice job. I had the same problem mainly with Gars blocking up the outlet. I had a broken Enviro type net I kept. I cut up a small circle to fit over the water drain outlet.

'metals' are moulded of lead usually.

Sorry I was wrong. You need: Bailer/Bucket (vessel with open bilges) or bilge pump (vessels with covered bilges)

I don't think you need to have one to stay legal, you just need some kind of bailing system but a bilge pump is a better option. Bigger is better especially in an emergency when you need to get water out of the boat in a hurry. I have a 500GPH in my 4.9m with a float switch but there is nothing wrong with going bigger. I would recommend fitting a strainer to the bilge pump as well or it could block up when you really need it like mine did once. Also check that you can hear it working before every trip.

Branzino is stronger by far. Stronger gears and metal body. I don't know about taking a pretty reel like that off the rocks though. I only use mine in the boat. I would personally get something cheaper for rock work.

Hahahaha love it.

I don't bother "washing" mine either. I hose everything off really well and spot rub with a sponge if there happens to be any dirty bits.

They would have to be some fairly stiff or thick gloves to stop the flatty spike going through. I use a towel rag thrown over them then pick them up. The rag gives you good grip to hold on. You could use gloves to get a good grip as well but I don't know about stopping the spike. Just be careful and squeeze tight so they don't flap around and get you.

Well I've been in these difficult situations over the years, but I have been the one in the boat. Sometimes blokes on the wall will get annoyed and your totally no where near them. I do agree though with the OP that if he was casting in the area it is a bit rude to go anchor your boat right in the same spot. I had a situation once where there was a guy up on a rock ledge with his line in the water. I was sounding out the area as I knew some good kings get around there. I was at least 30-40m out away from his line end and I could see a big school of kings underneath so began jigging and hooking some of them. Well the guy on the ledge was annoyed that I apparently came too close to his line so he tied on a large casting metal and began casting at me and yelling out stuff that I couldn't understand I was that far away from him. My question is does the whole school of kings belong to the guy on the wall because he cast his line near them first and no one else is allowed to come near them or his line? I don't think he even knew what was down there. I think if boats stay a minimum of about 30m from any cast lines, depending on the specific situation that should be ok.

Well I say get the widest cut you can. 72 inch is good. Why would you want to take 3 hours to do the job when you can do it in 1 hour with a bigger machine. They might cost more but worth it for sure, especially in summer when you need to cut grass once a week or more..

If you want to flush it quietly a good idea is do it in a large plastic garbage bin. That's what I use, not only because its much quieter, but I think it does a better job of flushing the engine and it's just as easy as using muffs.

Burley, no weight, small piece of prawn, small long shank hook and 4lb leader works every time. I'll fish the same rig in 15m of water off the boat and still get them every time one after another. Another tip is to strike at random times because the fish will sit there with it in their mouths and not move and you will not feel anything.

Yep, it's simple and the best in my opinion. Cast it out away from the pylons. They usually stay out and away but if it come close its just a matter of bringing it up and casting again. Don't be in a rush to reel it in if it starts swimming around and panicking. That means there is a predator sussing it out.

YGK WX8. I've been using it for a while now and it's good.

Have a look at a Nitro Magnum Butt. That's what I use.

Tie the correct size hook to the leader and that's all you need. Pin the Yakka in it's back about an inch or 2 from the front. This is the best place to avoid the hook fouling up and getting a good hook up rate. Throw him out and let it swim free. You will obviously need to keep an eye on the yakka's location and bring him in and re cast if it gets too close to tangling with something.

I've found FC Rock to have problems as well. Knots were tested on scales. I don't risk fishing with inconsistent line so I threw out about 3 rolls of the stuff. I use YGK Nitlon fluorocarbon and have so for years and it's been very good. YGK make good braid too.

If you mean ideal as in so you are comfortable I like it to be under 10 knots when I'm fishing open areas. If you are in a river or you have cover then more than 10 knots is ok just depends on the specific place. Sometimes a bit of wind is good to help with casting distance if it's going in the direction you want. If the wind is going against where you want to go then that is crap.

I prefer to use a head lamp then turning on the lights on the boat to re- rig, bait or whatever.

"Sen-Sgt Faustmann said there was no law or penalty for exceeding boat carrying capacity on croc-infested waters in the NT." That's crazy. And where are the lifejackets for kids under 12?

Wise move mate. Let us know what they find.

Hi mate. I think you will need to order a new transducer and replace it. That would mean that part that is broken there and the cable back to the unit. Do you know what caused it to snap off? If that transducer was to strike something it should 'bump' up or down out of the way and not break, so the only way it could really snap like that is if something struck it side ways (left to right). It would be a good idea to find out what happened just in case it happens again. The picture shows some kind of a scrape on the mount which could be a clue not sure.

I don't know for sure but I think polarized is polarized. The difference in quality comes from the clarity in the lens. I've compared my Cancer Councils polarization ability to an expensive pair and I actually preferred the cheap ones.