campr

Generally you will cast further with lighter lines, but they are more susceptible to being cut by sharp rocks, oysters and teeth. I fish much lighter but for general fishing for bream,whiting,sqid and flathead etc I think 8lb is a good alternative. You can always use a heavyer trace for toothy critters or a lighter one for wary fish. Most importantly you can catch big fish on light lines if you have your drag set correctly. Don't worry too much about all the advice you get, you'll have it all sorted in 30 or 40 years. Ron

One way to lessen snags is to use a posternoster rig with sinker on the bottom with sinker dropper long enough to keep hook clear of bottom. However there are a couple of sneaky tricks to try. 1. Put a small runnig float about 2 or 3cm round on sinker dropper under hook trace to hold hook off bottom. 2. If sinker is getting snagged a drop shot rig can be tried. This is just a split shot clamped on end of sinker dropper so that if sinker gets caught a steady pull will slip shot off the end of your line releasing the rest of your rig. If more weight is needed just put a ball sinker on 1st above the shot. This is the real original meaning of the drop shot rig, not a means of vertically working soft plastics. I have only used this trout fishing in an area covered with round river stones and it worked well. May be worth a try. Ron

Try feathering your line by lightly putting the tip of your finger on the lip of the spool as the lure or sinker nears the end of your cast before it hits the water. Ron

I bought a new quinnie lazeabout in 1982 with a 60hp and fished a lot by myself. A lot of estuary fishing with regular trips outside to the Peak 12mile etc with no issues if you were careful with the weather. A truly great boat that gave me a lot of pleasure. Five years ago I upgraded to a 2001 5.6metre Quinnie Classic with 90hp motor with Millenium hull and the old saying that bigger is better rings true when it comes to ride and comfort. I can definitely recomend the Millennium hulls and image the upgraded Blade hulls would be better still. I also recommend a good drive on trailer. Im in my mid 70s and can handle a 5.6metre boat solo with no probs. A well set up trailer is often overlooked when buying a boat but it can make the difference between a good and bad day. Good luck with your search. Ron

When making pre-tied rigs I keep them from tangling by rolling them up and individually storing them in small zip top bags. You can usually get them from newsagents or much cheeper in bulk from fleabay. Ron

If it's distance your after a bit longer rod would help as I said before. There are some around 7ft2in that should suit. Ron

A lighter rod may help especially if around the 7ft2inch mark but I think that heavy mono is your main drawback. Try 6lb braid with 1 and half rod lengths of 9lb mono or preferably flurocarbon joined with an FG knot. Ron

Ive heard the have similar nutrition needs as us and will eat anything you can. I think problems could arise if your dog is a gulper and doesn't chew his food? If you do try Id start with softer frames like whiting and keep clear of long strong rib bones as I imagine they would be more likely to get stuck. Ron

I would be a bit wary using something thick like body deadoner as you could have new electrolysis under it and not know until you have a hole in the hull. I think that stuff is tar based and dont know if it would react with the aluminum. Good luck. Ron

Time and tides definately afect prime feeding times for some species however if given the opportunity to feed by encountering a prime bait they will eat it regardless of t and t. The main thing is if you like fishing and have the opportunity, go for it. Ron

I fish 1kg pretest line during ANSA comps and have cught flathead to 5.6kg and jew to 3.2kg this way. Naturally drag settings are critical for this. I have a pvc piipe set in the ground to hold the rod and used to set the drag to 1/3 of breaking strain with scales by walking away at a fairly brisk pace. With time and experience you can do this by feel just pulling line from the drag by hand. Ron

Looks like electrolysis. It would be worthwhile to remove damaged material back to solid metal preferably with sanding disk and stainless wire brush. Vaccume all resulting dust out and wash before painting with an aluminium specific primer. The most important thing is to find the source of the electrolysis. Check the bottom for foriign objects like sinkers, hooks, coins, swivels etc. If you don't find anything check all around the hull especially the fixings like rivets, bolts etc to make sure they aren't made from reactive metals like braas or steel. Good luck. Ron

Some of the old ANSA freshwater comps used to provide a tip truck at the weigh in location to throw your carp into. Amazing how many we got out of the system. They weren't wasted either but went to be processed as fertiliser. The so call carp virus caused the carp to produce mostly male offsprings so there were less females to breed. Also known as the Motherless Carp project, however I believe they are wary of releasing it in case it affects our natives. Ron

Further to my comments above. All the rigging methods you mentioned will work depending on your location. Sinker rig works if bottom structure is clean like sand which Ive used for mulloway. Floats work in rocky or weedy areas as long as current isn't too strong. Unweighted squid will work well and sink down ok if current not too strong but you have to tend the rod at all times and retrieve and recast as it nears the bottom. Horses for coarses. Ron

If not competition fishing you can put a personal rule to this. Usually if the fish is secured like safely netted or in boat and can't escape without your help, its landed. If you have a fish next to your craft and remove hook to release while still in the water, its caught. Just to complicate matters, I believe that in gamefishing rules you only have to grab the leader to make a capture. As a general rule, covered in panco crumbs and fryed is definately caught. Ron

Most common way is a snooded 2 hook rig with top hook through top point of hood taking the weight of the bait and 2nd hook in head or water jet tube. Some use a treble for 2nd hooh wwith just 1 tang in bait. Are you talking live or dead squid? Ron

Drive on doable as is. Not much different to setup on my trailer with a 5.6m quinnie. I managed ok with your setup but recently added another post and extended v to help direct on to the rear roller. I often fish by myself so also added a boat catch to the front. I had a spring loaded set of v rollers on my previous rig and realy liked it but couldnt fit to this trailer, however it looks like they could be fitted to yours. Lastly make sure your rollers roll well. I made my own stainless steel axles from rod the same diameter as roller axles and recommend this to everyone regarless of whether you drive on or winch. Ron

Another side to this. Crushing barbs is common up north when fishing remote areas as it negates the risk of hooking yourself far from medical help. I have done this twice in my life. The last time earlier this year with a 4/0 hook buried all the way into my calf. Not fun when out at sea by myself. Ron

I doubt there would be a lot of difference between a single and twin cab. I had a commodore wagon which towed my 5.6 meter Quinnie no problem but on long trips was using up to 17 litres per 100ks. Now have a diesel Colorado 7 and nearly forget the boats there it does it so easily. Ron

I think you will find a reasonable outfit from a genuine tackle store as there is plenty of specials around at the moment. Get the best you can afford as nothing discourages newbies more than trying to fish with a crappy outfit. The biggest mistake beginners make is to put too heaavy a line on the reel which causes tangles and greatly reduces your casting distance. Ideal starting outfit is 6ft 6in to 7ft 2in 3-4kg rod with 2000 to 2500 reel with at least 3 bearings matched with 3to4kg line. Good luck and good fishing. Ron

Well done. I have a bought version and love it but you have to be pretty precise with boat position for it to catch. Yours looks much more forgiving. Ron

Think carefully about buying a motor that the big selling point is its hardly been used, or hasn't been used in years etc. Worst thing for outboards is lack of use. I would prefer a motor that has regular trouble free use. You can get lucky though. The only 2nd hand motor I ever bought was a 60hp Mariner from out west that had only been on a fresh water lake and owned by the local ob mechanic. Good luck. Ron

I think that given the wind catching ability of an inflatable and the fact you could also have current to contend with, you would be very limited in your range. Look at the weight of a modern petrol motor vs lecky and battery, and compare power output, you may find your better off going the smelly option? Ron

I live bait drift for flatties using old 8ft Kmart nibble tip rods. The slow loading of these soft rods give them time to take the bait and the slow loading sets the big mouth hooks into the corner of their jaw. I don't strike but let the hook behave like a circle hook. This has accounted for many big flathead including 2 that went 97cm. All big girls released of cause. Ron

I know quite a few fishos who would chalenge your claim to be the greatest dragon snapper fisherman in Sydney. LOL Ron