zmk1962

Thanks Pickles, couldn't agree more. As fisherman we are blessed on many fronts. Thanks Peter ! Yup comes down to a plan - Plan A marlin and we did some 155km on the water, but since we had invested time to be out there Plan B was a deep drop. Thanks for the kind words Adrian ... hahaha but we still had a great day out that day ... happy to report zero gear loss on this trip ! Thanks Jeff .... yes ... now that you mention it Sam has a knack ... or is Sam the lucky rabbit's foot that got us our fish 🤔 ???? Sam who are you going out with next we have a theory to debunk ? Thanks Yowie .... it's freaking amazing what happens when you add some SPs to your hooks !!!! 🤣 Hey Dunc ... really ! .... did you wave ?? I think we must have been doing about 50-60 past there racing to the ramp. Thanks Dave, I know a few blokes do use them, and there is camera footage on Youtube of the Brown's mountain and you can clearly see house bricks on the bottom!. But I would think bricks are just not dense enough to drop vertically and increase water drag, you'd have a lot of line out at an angle - increasing the chance of snagging and decreasing bite sensitivity .... Thanks for your comments @Rebel and @Miketheadventurer ... it really was a great day.

Hey Jason, Yes conditions were great to start and then just got better.... although the warmest water we found out wide was 23.8 .... we were searching for the temp breaks that some had reported at 25 plus. As to how to prepare blue eye for the table? Not sure if you are asking for a recipe or how I handle the fish from time of capture ... Cooking the blue eye is a treat because it has a delicate flavour with firm flaky flesh. So it's highly regarded on the chew and suitable for many cooking styles making it a premium table fish - Costis has it at $69.99/kg usually. Just google and you'll see heaps of recipes. For our first meal we made the Baja fish tacos - recipe in the kitchen section - I removed nearly 400g from the two wings and head, which I cubed up, dusted with salt pepper and flour and shallow fried in olive oil with a garlic clove. Sam ( @GoingFishing ) sent me some pictures of the feast he prepared, I'll leave it for him to post. Regarding how I prepare the fish. Well think more of butchering instead of fish cleaning. It's basic anatomy is still a fish (guts, gills, head and frame, scales) but everything is just bigger - which makes some parts of the process easier and others harder - eg cutting through thick bones is much harder. I start the preparation process at the time of capture. A quick death (ikijime) stops lactic acid build up. I don't bother scaling the fish as its much easier to skin a big fish with scales on - the skin is really thick and comes off easily. There's a lot of flesh which needs to be kept icy cold for the long trip back and also for the longer time it takes to process the fish, so I like to promptly gut the fish and fill the gut cavity with blocks of ice to drop the core temperature asap. The picture of me holding the fish is after we gutted it. Here's one of Sam holding it just after it came out of the water - noticeably more plump - guts and air bladders intact. So first thing, get rid of the few kilos of warm guts in there, and that's about all you are allowed to do offshore according to fisheries rules. Once back on land, the second decision is on what cuts you want from the fish (the butchering part) - with a big fish like that you can go cutlets or fillets. Since we were going to share the fish , it was much easier to take a fillet off each side. Filleting is easier then a small fish as the frame bones are large and guide the knife more easily. Sam did a top job in taking his fillet on his first attempt. We started the fillet cut from just behind the wing and ran it up and into the back of the skull as deep and as close to the bones as you can get, then along the spine to the tail. We did this at the ramp, on top of the esky. We'd also brought back a 20L bucket of salt water to use as rinse as needed - I don't like to let fresh water onto salt water fish unless I am cooking it immediately - and I definitely don't like the Ermo boat ramp fish cleaning botulism facility. Although this was my PB 20kg blue eye, I had previously caught an 18kg bar cod which I prepped as cutlets. For cutlets, it's pretty much the same process except I'd scale the fish. Then decide on the thickness of the cutlets - it's simplest to follow the rib bones as a guide. Starting at the shoulder cut down to the spine and follow the ribs. Do one side, roll the fish over and do the other. I use a small butcher saw to get through the thick back bone if the cut didn't end up on the vertebra joint to separate the individual cutlets. Anyway, back to the fillets. Once I'd separated my fillet, I skinned it, split the fillet down the middle lengthways, and trimmed the red meat - leaving two firm white fillets. I chunked these into 400g portions (more than enough for a 2 person meal), bagged and labeled ready for freezing and gifting (yes the family is aware we caught a blue eye and the congratulations are coming in). I then separated the wings from the head, removed the fins and skinned the remain part. This allowed me to remove around 300g of flesh with minimal waste from what is normally a very bony part of a fish usually cooked whole. So that left about a 3-4kg of head and frame. Decision time. I value everything that the ocean gives us, so I do not like to waste any usable part of the fish. Maria would usually take the frame for stock and a fish head curry was on the cards, but since it was now around 8.30pm and frankly I was TIRED .... I removed another 100g of fish from the back of the head and cheeks. So with the wings and this we had 400g of cubed fish pieces which was going to be our first meal. Anyway, that's how I prepare it for the table. Hope that was what you were after...otherwise I have just gone way off track. Cheers Zoran

Top job @The Rev both in bagging a nice feed and in embodying the Raider spirit by passing some of your skills to your crew. I always felt a good fishing trip starts with a plan .... and then executing and fine tuning as you go. Cheers Zoran

Good stuff Yowie - another great feed. Now are you absolutely sure you don't want to bring them back on the bite by using an SP ? 🤣 Cheers Zoran

Hey Sam thanks so much for putting up the report mate. As I said in our text ... you're absolutely welcome anytime. You’re a great bloke and good company. It was a blast. Glad the Browns session turned out constructive otherwise it would have been a day of 1-0-0 and thats too many zeros. And that's without counting the "no-idea zero's" at the Ermo boat ramp. Honestly folks it was mayhem .. but we survived ! Cheers Zoran

Top stuff Sam. I think the second trip with the boys put a bigger smile on your dial for sure ! For me it’s sport fishing (marlin) after bread and butter every time.... gotta look after the tummy first 🎣 🍽 😜 cheers Zoran

Has he ever! Top effort and very tasty. Strangely enough I never try for calamari offshore- but you have got me very interested. Do you add a jig to a paternoster or dedicate a rod and jig just targeting the green eyes? Is the technique similar to inshore? cheers Zoran

Top job, top effort and top report Brendan. I think it was you that posted - you gotta do the miles to get the smiles. So true! cheers Zoran

Thanks for the mention KC (@kingie chaser) ... the prop topic was covered pretty well in the post you referenced... but a chat often helps to to get the head around some of the concepts and sift through the jargon. @Bloggsy send me a PM with your mobile and we can tee up a time that suits if a chat will help. As @noelm said, it would help if you have some idea if you are hitting the MAX RPM on the motor with the current prop 3x16x18.5R prop and also maybe several data points of what speed you achieve at different RPM settings. With that in hand we can start to guesstimate what effect the prop change you propose in the OP may have - Basically the spare prop has a 1" reduced diameter but a more aggressive pitch (and rake). So whats the effect? Generally the bigger the diameter to the more water is displaced and the more thrust the prop creates - but it also adds load on the engine and hence its important that you can hit WOT. If you can't you are overloading the engine. So with the current 16" can you hit WOT? A high rake also adds load to the engine, so dropping from 16" to 15" dia with a higher rake may actually end up with the same amount of load on engine and be ok. What's the effect of going from 18.5p to 21p? Theoretically you will move forward an extra 1.5" per RPM . So if you do the maths with theoretical zero slip you will get about 9% additional speed at the same RPM. Which equates to better fuel efficiency etc. However, higher pitch props have less bite at lower RPM so your hole shot may be compromised - if you don't get enough bite you also may introduce cavitation issues which is damaging to the engine (this is different to ventilation !). The above comparison is a theoretical scenario - you also need to consider different prop dynamics to calculate the slip and see if you are actually getting the full 9% benefit, or even how efficient your current prop is. I have provided links to the calculators in the post KC has quoted. I've also written in other posts that as an offshore fisherman, the main considerations I have for my motor/prop combination is to deliver most efficient performance in the following RPM ranges: 1. Hole shot - high thrust to get up and onto plane, or to climb a wave - so this equates to bigger diameter and lower pitch to maximise prop bite at low RPM. 2. Ride the Wave - hold position on the wave - sometimes you just have to ride the back of the wave, pick your time and accelerate to the next one etc - this equates to prop performance in the 2500-3500RPM range. 3. Long Cruising - stay in the most efficient RPM range of the motor at YOUR BOAT HULL's ideal cruising speed. My Haines 6.35m hull is most comfortable around the 40-45km/h mark in the typical 1m conditions I go out in. I want to cruise at these speeds when my motor is in the ideal 3900-4500RPM range where it delivers optimum torque and economy. No point over propping my rig to say 19p where in this range it may try and drive me at 50-60+km/h because my Hull can't handle it comfortably and I'll be constantly riding the throttle, dropping to a non ideal RPM to reduce speed, then revving up again to recover etc. But don't get me wrong - I can and often do punch up past 55km/h - its just not the most economical or comfortable range. BTW, the Suz prop sizing guide has a pretty decent explanation as well. http://www.suzukimarine.com/~/media/marine/accessories/suzuki propellers/propellers_pdf.ashx Anyway, having said all that, and given you already have the spare prop I suggest you take some measurements and readings of your current set up performance: time to holeshot RPM and Speed at plane, Speed at different RPMs - say 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, WOT. Then change the prop to the spare one and repeat the above. Compare which prop better suits your intended purpose. As @wrxhoon1said in several posts, prop selection is trial and error ! Cheers Zoran PS - anything to do with props is never a short answer !!!!!!

Stay safe ! Wishing you the best. Can you get the meds delivered? Zoran

+1 for that @Green Hornet. The braid tail actually softens over time ... no impact to having a little braid tail. It's the leader tail that I try hardest to eliminate. Cheers Zoran

I use the FG extensively, with leaders 2-3x rod length. I always try to have a few wraps of leader on the spool given I mostly fish from my boat and leader is more abrasive resistant than braid - so playing fish close to the boat I have leader from reel to terminal gear. When finishing the FG knot, I cut the leader (mono or FC) at a long sloping angle and then make sure the half hitches tie over this sloping cut so that you end up with a smooth transition to the braid and no leader poking out. Also, I alternate 3 half hitches left, 3 right, 3 left etc until all the leader is well covered and finish off with something like a 4 turn blood knot that locks the braid down. I have not had the FG come apart at the braid ever ... and honestly, the FG/leader knot gets used every outing (some have gone for months and easily 10+ trips) .... rightly or wrongly I only retie the FGs and leaders when something breaks - the braid or the leader is too short. I'll probably be shouted down for that... but it works for me. I've had raiders on board that can attest I've had leaders snap, swivels break, and even the braid line break ... but I've not had a failure at the FG knot so far. Cheers Zoran

You know you are right Rick - should stop ranting and take action .... next time I should just take a photo of a Rivercat, record time, date and location and ask maritime to "please explain" ! Cheers Zoran

Sad to hear Jon... but glad you personally came out ok under the circumstances. I was with NRMA for many years, then Club Marine were a better choice for a few years as they understood boats - but they started to be a real pain regarding Agreed Value and when I called found the staff changed so I could not speak to anyone that understood boats any more - so I switched back to NRMA and have not looked back since. I have had successful claims regarding custom overall boat covers (storm damage) etc. but have not had a reason to claim items such as the ones you have mentioned. AS KC said, I don't think a lot of the personal effects stuff makes it into the boat policy, but from memory there are options to insure personal effects under options in the home insurance policies. Maybe some one like Baz ( @Berleyguts) would have a better insight. Cheers Zoran

Yup... I gave a sad face as they just don't know. My last trip out, I was at Parsley Bay ramp a little early (waiting for Dieter) and the guy I let go past in the queue started his motor high and dry up the ramp. I tried to explain politely that was not a good idea. Most outboards idle at 700rpm, when they start they spurt way above that, thats a lot of revs on the poor dry impeller. Its like doing a burn out with car tyres, except the little impeller has a lot less tread.... all it got was a mouthful of mind your own business. Each to his own I guess. Cheers Zoran

Extension cord from 4th floor 🤯 mate ... thats tough ! We're a bit off topic to the OP dremel question, but worth exploring as a consideration. Battery longevity !!! Well I made two decisions on this: 1) only buy tools that have separate batteries (no internal battery). My very first cordless was a Ryobi 7V drill with internal battery - it taught me everything that was wrong with these early cordless models (they were more toys than tools unless you were model making). If the battery is discharged, you stop work until its recharged. If the battery dies, you may as well scrap the tool. 7V just not enough grunt.... tried, 9V (yawn) and 14.4V (getting there) ... and then 18V came out and Bingo ... you could drill masonry ! So first lesson - external battery and minimum 18V, and also invest in several batteries so that you always have a charged battery to clip in. Mind you a single 5Ah battery will often outlast me - driving the buffer it will polish the whole boat. But driving the 115mm grinder it will probs give me 40-50min of continuous grinding. 2) Standardise on a brand/make that offers a range of tools so you can leverage your battery investment. As a DIY guy, Ryobi hit product and price range marks for me ... especially when they offered a 6yr warranty on their gear. So I have slowly replaced most of my corded gear with Ryobi 18V models. There are now aftermarket sellers that sell compatible batteries at 1/3-1/2 price of the OEM. I have tried one, and now own 5 x 6Ah LiON batteries. Back to OPs question... it occurred to me that another tool to consider " that has cutting capability, and the ability to sand in small gaps." is a multi tool. It doesn't have a cutting wheel as such, but has cutting blades of different shapes and sizes. Also very very handy. Cheers Zoran

Looks like a great day out with the boys regardless of the weather - a family that plays together stays together imo. Love the team shirt photo as well. Cheers Zoran

I have a Dremel that I purchased back in the 90's thats still working. About 8yrs ago I had to replace the small silicon tube coupler between the motor and the drive shaft as it perished due to age... thats the only thing thats gone wrong with it. Given the age and in anticipation of the Dremel dying at some stage, I impulse bought an Ozito rotary tool (with kit) about 4yrs ago at the B***ngs store ... it has sat on the shelf unused (now past its 3yr warranty) waiting for the Dremel to die ... mind you it was on special for $15 with the kit included so hard to walk past. These rotary tools are invaluable. The cutting discs you mention Antony - they'r great for fine cutting of metals - bolts in tight spaces etc. However the most used tool ends for me have been the carbide cutters / an router tips. Great for plunge cutting or reshaping holes to fit switches and accessories. In hindsight, the only thing I'd now evaluate is whether the 18V cordless models are up to scratch to replace the corded ones. Cordless is just so much more handy working on the boat - buffer, multi tool, soldering iron, hot air gun, drill , impact driver etc etc all cordless for me now. Cheers Zoran PS - what are you making ?

I guess there must be a different definition that's applied to the Rivercats 🤔 because under that different definition there is no way that the short sharp wash they produce "is likely to cause damage to the foreshore or vessels, or injury or annoyance to people". ... all us boaties trying to launch or retrieve at the ramp, or tied to the jetty must be delusional to think the Rivercat wash would ever damage our craft, let alone annoy us !!! Cheers Zoran

Top job. Love it when it goes to plan and you are done and dusted in a few drifts 👍 cheers Zoran

Top effort Sam. You’ve worked out Bellambi for sure. cheers Zoran

Sorry @PaddyT, not sure why either ... I quoted @XD351 ... it somehow included that he had quoted you... maybe its my fat fingers on the iphone screen. Cheers Zoran

Once a year and takes 5 min a jacket to do - too easy ! The 4 Marlin jackets I had previously required to be inflated and left inflated for 24hrs then checked for leaks. So not a 5min job in my experience. It may have been specific to that model jacket but I recall marlin website saying the same for their products. cheers Zoran

I’m back to the foam as well. cheers Zoran

Smile says it all ... congratulations and Merry Christmas ! Cheers Zoran