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jeffb5.8

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Posts posted by jeffb5.8

  1. I just sold my house and moved into a rental,while i renovate the new house

    Old place had a single garage but with two large mezzanine floors and two large 2.5 x 3mtr sheds and a 6mtr carport out front.

    Rental has a 6 x6 double garage but no driveway, so with the boat inside and my prized possessions its really full.

    New house has a driveway and that's it, need to build a garage as well as kitchens, bathrooms and other items.

    Three Ute loads to the tip, Sold a ute load of Old Ford parts to a Club member and probably dumped another ute load at work. Boxed the rest so when i do move to the new house it will be like Xmas.

    Upside is i have sneaked a few new Rod & Reel combos into the shed with the line, ive had that for ages.

  2. Geez that's a bit of damage to the prop

    We all leave the bungs out at least once, my mates now know to sort the inside of the boat out while I go through my mental checklist before launching. I once left the rear straps on my boat and couldn't work out why she was stuck on the trailer.

    As for the electrical, once you cleaned them down, there should be a electrical cleaner spray to prevent corrosion, prior to the next time out just undo the battery terminals and give them a clean with a wire brush or sand paper.

     

  3. Having just gone through the brake pad change on my trailer

    You can undo the two bolts (One at a time) and the slides should be able to slid out without removing the caliper.

    Remove one slide clean and lube and then do the other, I notice my caliper still don't move much but it is a slight movement, more one side of the caliper than both sides equally.

    If the tow neck isn't moving then grease and drive around the block, could try some heat to free it up if its rusty.

     

    A few photos might help too.

  4. 1 hour ago, Noo2OzFish said:

    I assume you are meaning VHF not UHF.  Marine VHF is between 150 mhz and 162 mhz.  Australian CB UHF is between 476 mhz and 477 mhz.  Receive wise you may not see much of a difference as radio reception on varying length antennas is not detrimental to your radio,,  HOWEVER transmitting into a non resonant antenna is hugely detrimental.  If you transmit into a UHF antenna with a VHF radio on 25 watts unless there is some sort of protection fold back unit in the radio your finals are damaged and likely not working.  You would not notice it because your receive function will still work.  You will be able to transmit,, well it will look like you are but only milliwatts will come out.  You don't need the dealer's antenna but you do need a marine VHF  not Air VHF and not Amateur (Ham) VHF no matter if they all use the same standard screw in base.

     

    Bear 

    Cheers

     

    Yep the Lowrance Marine Link 5 I have is a VHF, the female screw in base is still there and thin cord are still on the boat, they just snapped and lost the antenna sheath.

    Will price a few up,

     

    The original antenna / aerial had a plastic base so I am guessing mine isnt a Ground Dependant Aerial since I have a Alloy boat

  5. Hi All

    Since this is a radio thread.

    I have a Lowrance link 5 VHF radio and the kids broke the aerial, the current aerial is a Pacific brand and the dealer I bought the boat from will only sell me the complete aerial, coaxial cable and mount at $90.

    Can I just buy any VHF aerial as long as it screws onto my base?

  6. On ‎22‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 9:57 PM, raging said:

    Nice write up. 

    Fancy fishing shirt :)

    I think I might have to up my game in regards to fishing shirts, I would wear that out to dinner.

     

    Nice fishing report and good to see the Jews are biting.

  7. 16 minutes ago, Croydon said:

    Hi Jeff,

    Once you are happy with the position of your transducer and achieved the best readings possible I'd mark the location.  Between the stainless steel transducer bracket and aluminium hull fitting, I use a cut out of a polyethlene cutting board to separate the two metals.  If using 316 stainless bolts use polyethlene washers, nylon nuts and tef gel.  Or go with the large aluminium rivets with aluminium mandrels.  Also remember to re-paint all screw holes before fixing.  Hope I'm not telling you how to suck eggs. Cheers.. Dave

    No egg sucking from what I read, all great tips and appreciated,

    I have heaps of HDPE covers here in different thickness I can cut up

  8. Hey Victor

    I note Supercheap auto has the Century Marine batteries on sale today in their new catalogue to club members, it only take 30sec to sign up to their club.

    Marine Pro MP620 620cca was $246 now $171.99

    MArine Pro 720 720cca was $279 now $194

     

  9. 7 hours ago, Fab1 said:

    That's a good candidate for the humble ally rivet mate.A 2 second job and you won't need to worry about it again.That transducer sticks out that far you almost need a orange flag attached to it whilst under tow.Or use it as a diving board.

    It helps with right hand turns too!

    sounds like I will have to check the height and mark it next time I am out on the water.

    should it be above / On or below the water line when at rest.

    it does throws a mean spray when under way

  10. Hi All

     

    My Transducer is screwed on to the mount on the back of my Stacer and the screws keep coming loose, so I thought while I am doing the wheel bearings and some touch ups, I would take the time to remove the screws and replace them with bolts.

    So do I use a stainless steel bolt, nut and washer or a Alloy bolt nut and washer?

  11. The roller looks fine unless it's out of round or cracking.

    there is a washer on the inside and outside of the roller and a split pin. Count how many rollers you have and grab a pack of split pins and 2 x washers.

     

    head to your local ramp on a quiet day (Mon-Frid) and drop your boat in and tie it off out of the way.

    Then park the trailer and start servicing the rollers and giving it a good check over and adjustment.

  12. OK

    If you can afford it then yeah replace both car batteries with Marine batteries.

    if you want to space out the batteries purchase, check the fluid levels and Load test the batteries and pick the best one to be your battery 2 to run you accessories and battery one replace with a Marine Battery no smaller than the NS70M (680cca) for your sized motor.

    Once you have checked you motor is charging the batteries, confirmed the wiring is in good condition, it will give you a clearer idea of your direction.

    Keep us up to date on how you go, its always nice for us and others to see how things end.

    From Memory I paid just under $200 for my NS70M Marine Pro Battery, I search online and then price matched with the Marine Mech.

  13. My new boat came fitted with only one battery Century NS70M,

    So I had the local boat place wire in a second battery which included a new 1- 2 - 1+2 - Off switch, VSR, Battery box, Battery, Tinned cabling and fittings which came to $400.

    I used a Century Marine Battery Pro 680 NS70M, which starts my 115HP Etec fine,

     

    You said the boat wont start on one battery but will start on two batteries.

    Question

    Does your motor start on the other single battery or wont start on either single battery?

    Can you get them out and load tested by the local battery world or Some Mechanics will do it for free?

    Do you have a multi meter that you can test the charging from your motor when running and test the level of charge in the batteries.

    I have a Ctek5ms which is great for topping up the batteries over winter or if I haven't used it for a while. Trickle charging is good but if you use the boat regularly and turn off the batteries then a normal charge twice a year should sustain the batteries

     

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