XD351

In the post I linked they do show the one you want . What is it in the map you are specifically looking for ? There are some members on here that have extensive knowledge of the Jervis bay region .

Found this on Fishraider, not sure if these guys are still with us or not though . I had a copy of this book maybe 25-30 yrs ago , gave it to a guy i worked with .

You can try float fishing in close , run your bait about a metre off the bottom and fish the last and first hour either side of a tide change . What bait did you use ?

I believe that the more choices you have in front of you the more time you will spend trying to decide ! I used to lug around a lot of sinkers when beach fishing thinking I would need them but in reality once conditions got rough enough to need the big ones the beach became unfishable anyway. I now carry maybe half a dozen sinkers - a couple of #2 ball ,a couple of #4ball and a couple of medium star sinkers. I was doing the same with jig heads and have also limited what I carry there as well as have any gulp plastics as they leak and stink -I would rather add scent myself anyway .

Yep and 40yrs of lugging crap around that I never used made me think about it ! I left the chuck it and chance it brigade many , many years ago - I find those that still fish that way spend more time worrying about the “what if” scenarios instead of doing some homework and narrowing down to the species that are the most likely to be present in that area they are fishing , this way I can minimise the amount of gear I carry , the time burnt up deciding on what rigs to use and maximise my chances of success. Having rods that can be used over a wider range of fishing styles also helps .

These days I have simplified things a little because I hate carrying anything I might use and trimmed it down to stuff i definitely will need . Beach : a rod , sometimes two , shoulder/ wading bag which has everything I need inside ( not much - a small tackle box , a spool of leader , a belt with bait box and knife on it , a pair of pliers and scissors )a rod tube ( clips to the bag ) and a bucket with my bait and water bottle in it Estuary/ freshwater - lure : a flick stick and sling bag which is crammed full of lures, pliers,scents etc. I usually don’t do more than a couple of km so i hydrate well at the car so no need to carry heavy water bottles. luderick : a rod , a small backpack which has some tackle and floats inside , bottle of water and two buckets, one is stored inside the other for transportation. These have my bait / berley and gardening trowel inside until i get near the water and use one bucket as a berley bucket so it gets filled with sand and the other to keep fish in , short session I just kill,bleed and place in the bucket - long session I use a keeper net . And of course a landing net . Bait fishing : Estuary would be same as luderick but a sidecast fitted to the rod instead of a centrepin, lose one bucket and the trowel and add some bigger hooks and sinkers to the tacklebox. Freshwater: same flick stick , lose the sling bag , add a small bucket for bait , a small tacklebox with a couple of hooks , tiny sinkers , some splitshots, swivels and a few bubble floats .

Awesome ! I wonder if the same technique works on the freshwater mullet and herring in the Nepean? You could go up there and do the four species thing - bass , mullet , herring and mud marlin.

One gripe I do have is how the rod tips are packaged- in a plastic bag , you can’t walk into one of those big stores and test fit the tip . It would make life much easier if they packaged them so the ferrule section is accessible , I suppose you could stab a hole in the bag but I didn’t tell you that ok 🤣🤣 Even if you want to buy one online you need to know what diameter the end of the blank is which you really need a vernier , dial or digital calliper for as ferrule sizes go up in 0.2mm steps iirc And just in case I’m confusing anyone- the ferrule ( as I know it )is the tube section on a rod tip where the blank slides in and is fixed in place with an adhesive .

Or you could do it yourself - sometimes the original tip is a little loose fit on the blank and if you heat up the original tip with a cigarette lighter it will soften the glue and you can pull the broken rod blank end out of the tip and see if it will slip over the end where the blank broke and glue it back on . If not the big stores have a basic range of Fuji tips and guides , it’s just a matter of finding one that is a close fit and gluing it on with either epoxy or the Fuji hot melt glue which these stores also sell . If you want it fixed so it has the same style of tip as the guides and matching binding then you will have to find a tackle store that can either do it or get it done - and it will cost you ! You may have to go up to Newcastle or down to Sydney to find a shop though - they are getting hard to find There used to be one at budgewoi but it may have shut down - I dunno . forgot to mention look around on facebook for rod building groups or pages - might be someone on there that is local to you and can help .

It is deep and snaggy in close and lots of current , fished for luderick and bream using floats many years ago .

Back when i was a kid reels were not very corrosion proof ( alvey excepted) so we had no choice but to service them regularly . These days provided you rinse them off with fresh water and haven’t drowned it you don’t need much more than the occasional drop of oil on the line roller bearing , some lube on the bail arm pivots and a dob of grease on the gears and sliding bits inside maybe once a year . When i think back on all the reels i have owned and done full rebuilds on that were not needed i shake my head - i was killing them with kindness - it’s a bit like taking an engine apart to clean the spark plugs ! You also need to understand that reel manufacturers have different viscosity grease for different parts of the reel which will give that “feel “ that a new reel has , when you use grease bought from tackle store - you know the stuff , it is usually in a tube and marked reel grease and i have seen this stuff as thin as melted butter and as thick as peanut butter . Use that stuff and you can end up with a reel that grinds like it has no lube at all or so stiff it feels like you have used axle grease on it . Also you need to be ultra careful when opening the gearcase - the outside of the reel needs to be spotless because there is the risk that a grain of sand might be hiding in a crevice and if this gets inside and gets caught in the gears wave bye bye to that silky smooth reel . My way of thinking is: Reel under $400 just look after the bail roller and pivots and i would only strip it down if it went for a swim ,got dropped in sand or a bearing seized up - use it till it wears out . Over $400 i would do the same in regards to the bail but if it had to come apart for a rebuild i would send it into either the manufacturer or one of their service agents , that way you get the reel back feeling and working as if it were new . You would probably only do a full service once in the life of the reel anyhow - they are far more durable than what we had as kids .

South creek , eastern creek ,cattai creek and any others that run into the Hawkesbury or Nepean have bass and carp in them . Take a look at the Windsor bait and tackle YouTube channel ( not a tackle store anymore) Aaron has a gazzillion videos of fishing the creeks out there and the Hawkesbury Nepean rivers as well .

The Atomic trick BitZ state they use a Gamakatsu octopus hook - I’m guessing this will be an octopus circle inline . I have also seen references to a J style hook . Probably going to be cheaper to buy ready made unless you are going to make lots of them and as you know ( or should know) it won’t be a one size fits all scenario as hook size and weight has a large effect on lure action . If you have lures running assist hooks keep them in their own compartment- 1 lure per compartment as they tangle up something wicked! I tie the assist hooks together with a freezer bag twist tie and I found this helps to keep them from tangling up .

My mates old man had a Tehri outboard - I think made in Norway or Finland , 50 hp was as big and as heavy as a 70 evinrude- absolute dog of a motor. one testament to Japanese adaptability is their car manufacturing industry, most of these grew from either bicycle manufacturing or sewing machines and by the end of WW2 manufacturing of anything in Japan had been obliterated so to get where they are today from there is pretty amazing! I thought evinrude were going to be making some weird outboard- I think it was called a ghost ?

The British also invented the first anti rust system - it is called oil leaks 🤣🤣🤣

Awesome whiting Albert ! First one on a lure and it’s a big one - gotta be stoked with that !

I'm not a fan of being able to connect two batteries together because if one has dropped a plate and the other is fully charged there will be a massive current dump and you can fry the wiring or switch . The way I have wired it in the drawing is so you can use the aux battery to start the motor in an emergency via the high current battery switch. The only time there is any current flow from the main battery to the aux battery is when the engine is running and this is fed through the dual battery controller. There is no fuse between any of the batteries and the switch which is mounted as close to the batteries as possible . The fuse is on the feed wire to the switch panel and as close to the battery as possible so it protects all of the wiring running around the boat . The dotted line running to the alternator may or may not be present on your motor as it may use the negative cable for the starter motor

The way I would have wired it is to use a cable set from the starter battery to the starter motor with no fuse, no breaker and no switch as I want this connection to be as reliable as possible . A dual battery set up like many 4wd use supplies a charge to the aux battery when the motor is running and once the starter battery is full - starting the motor is always the prime consideration. A high current link cable and switch links the two batteries ( +terminal) so the aux battery can be switched in to start the motor if needed - or you could use a set of jumper leads . The aux battery feeds everything else on the boat and I would have a fuse or breaker at the battery terminal that is rated no higher than what the cable you have used to feed power from the battery to your bus bar is rated for ( constant current rating ) I would have used 8awg which is rated 50amps but the thicker wire does have another benefit - it has less voltage drop over a comparable length of cable than what a thinner wire like 10 or 12awg will have - the more current you draw the greater the voltage drop will be over a given length of cable because of its inherent resistance . Also the batteries you use for each will be different - starter batteries and deep cycle have different ratings -CCA rating ( cold cranking amps ) - can be many hundreds of amps for a starter battery and usually the rating of maximum current draw for deep cycle - might be 100amps or so . I think there may be a sort of hybrid that is a deep cycle battery that has the same cca rating as a starter - not 100 sure though .

Awesome! Great report as well! Hope that is the first of many !

It looks like a hole in the photo but I think it is more of a rectangular slot . I probably should have positioned the arrow a little better as the point is right on a feature that looks like a round hole but is probably from the ejector pin in the die which pushes the part out after casting .

Ok , not having a boat does narrow down your options but still worth a go ! you can access the creek from the end of jacaranda and meroo avenues , there is a track going from the end of jacaranda ave upstream but the creek is mostly shallow with heaps of weed and nipper beds so flicking a plastic or casting out a bait like a nipper or prawn and slowly retrieved it around these areas might produce a flathead , whiting or bream , early morning or even better night time will be best as there are usually a few hundred kids tearing around in the creek during daylight hours so the fish will usually find somewhere to hide once that starts. The mouth of the creek where it drains into brisk bay is another spot worth a fish using the same tactics outlined above - the prawns get flushed out with the run out tide which attracts fish to the spot. Then fish your way along the beach to the wharf which will get you out into deeper water ( the whole bay is only a few metres deep until you get out past the moorings) and once again either a lure bumped along the bottom or a slowly retrieved bait should get you something. One tip with patonga wharf is to remember the fish can be right under the wharf - especially flathead as they hunt the bait schools that congregate around the wharf pylons so don’t be afraid to drop a bait or lure straight down and bob it up and down off the bottom ! You could lob out a live bait off the wharf , might hook a mulloway , a shark or a big flathead - they are in the bay right now so you never know your luck - live yakka or mullet . There are also blue swimmer crabs there - if you leave a dead bait of mullet or squid out there for a little while you might get a few - this is part of the reason why I kept mentioning to slowly retrieve the bait so the crabs don’t get it and bury it !

I was looking at a new first aid kit for my boat recently but I find the ones sold seem to be loaded with a lot of junk I doubt would be of any use in a boat or the quality of the contents is very low - crap scissors etc or close to being out of date . While I fully understand that these kits are put together for a price and to try and cover most scenarios I think a kit specifically for fishing would be nice or maybe some recommendations for a couple of smaller kits that contain items that are most likely to be needed on a fishing trip , say one for shore based fishing( rock , beach & estuary) general boat fishing and fishing / hiking for those that like to trudge along rivers and streams ( the risk of snake bites is much higher here and sprains or broken bones are more likely here than beach fishing etc ) Just a few thoughts !

Maybe the Yak can into some seriously gnarly ground in silence and not spook the fish? As they are more agile than a boat it would be easier to change the angle of the line when fighting a fish - ie you hook a kingie and it is steaming away from you towards some structure , you could pump the pedals like crazy to get the pressure on the fish to something closer to 90deg and maybe steer the fish away from danger . If you set your drag correctly the fact a kayak has a bit more give than a big boat really shouldn’t matter.

You in a boat or land based ? Do you have a specific species you are targeting? And how the hell did you get a camping spot at Patonga? That place is always booked out 🤣🤣🤣

Have a look at this video, the mechanism is pretty simple and I would say that something moved when you took the cover off . I doubt they will do it under warranty but it probably wouldn’t cost much for them to do it anyway . If you look carefully at the video you will see the spring loaded rod goes into a hole in the bail arm and the trip rod sits in the cavity above the hole .